TPS testing gone bad
02-06-08 | 08:27 AM
#26
[QUOTE=JustJeff;7832989]
I think he is wondering if you were trying to run the car without the IC on. if you want to start it up and still have access to the TPS then you would have to put some kind of pipe between the IC in and the IC out, and plug the 2 small vaccume lines that come off the IC. This way the MAF can still get a reading and you can have access to the TPS with the engine running.
I don't think you need to do this right now, if at all. Once you get the resistances right you should be able to adjust the idle with the IC on.
You are heating up the engine to normal operating temp before you are taking the resistance readings right??
I don't think you need to do this right now, if at all. Once you get the resistances right you should be able to adjust the idle with the IC on.
You are heating up the engine to normal operating temp before you are taking the resistance readings right??
02-06-08 | 01:57 PM
#27
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From: Indiana
I would be more concerned with the bad crimps right now rather than where the wires are being run. The stock mazda harness runs from the passanger side of the engine bay, over the right side of the engine, around the front and in underneith the UIM. With good crimps and proper insulation I imagine any noise from the alternator would be minimal or at least already accounted for. More than likely the TPS wires would have originally come out of the harness at a different spot than where they come out of your modified harness, and that's why the one on yours looks different. Also keep in mind, you have an S5 and the one in the picture is an S4, so yours is going to look different anyway.
Replace the crappy speaker wire and use good non-insulated crimps to connect the new wire, dab a bit of solder around each end of the crimp and then heat shrink each. After that, put the wire loom back around the wires and try adjusting it again. Keep in mind the stuff your following on FC3Spro.com is for an S4 (single TPS) and you have an S5 (dual TPS) your readings are going to be different since if i'm correct one TPS is for when the throttle is mostly closed and it changes to the other when you move toward WOT (don't quote me on this since i am not familiar with the S5 TPS). Either way, your readings may not be the same. Hope this helps.
Replace the crappy speaker wire and use good non-insulated crimps to connect the new wire, dab a bit of solder around each end of the crimp and then heat shrink each. After that, put the wire loom back around the wires and try adjusting it again. Keep in mind the stuff your following on FC3Spro.com is for an S4 (single TPS) and you have an S5 (dual TPS) your readings are going to be different since if i'm correct one TPS is for when the throttle is mostly closed and it changes to the other when you move toward WOT (don't quote me on this since i am not familiar with the S5 TPS). Either way, your readings may not be the same. Hope this helps.
Thank you for the heads up on the S4 and S5 TPS difference. I'll do some reading and see what the differences in reistance is. I'll drive the car to do a few errands to get it warmed up. Then retest the TPS that is on the car and go from there.
02-06-08 | 02:01 PM
#28
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From: Indiana
[QUOTE=Craiger;7833369]
I think he is wondering if you were trying to run the car without the IC on. if you want to start it up and still have access to the TPS then you would have to put some kind of pipe between the IC in and the IC out, and plug the 2 small vaccume lines that come off the IC. This way the MAF can still get a reading and you can have access to the TPS with the engine running.
I don't think you need to do this right now, if at all. Once you get the resistances right you should be able to adjust the idle with the IC on.
You are heating up the engine to normal operating temp before you are taking the resistance readings right??
Aaahh, correct I'm not creating any piping to compensate for the IC not being there. I'm simply getting the engine warm and turning it off. Removing the IC so I can get at the TPS better. With some nimble fingers I could probably adjust the TPS with the IC on, but it would be quite a ballet dance. I'd prefer to get the resistances within factory specs then put the IC back on and start it up.
I think he is wondering if you were trying to run the car without the IC on. if you want to start it up and still have access to the TPS then you would have to put some kind of pipe between the IC in and the IC out, and plug the 2 small vaccume lines that come off the IC. This way the MAF can still get a reading and you can have access to the TPS with the engine running.
I don't think you need to do this right now, if at all. Once you get the resistances right you should be able to adjust the idle with the IC on.
You are heating up the engine to normal operating temp before you are taking the resistance readings right??
02-06-08 | 03:37 PM
#30
Completely Stock
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 59
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From: West Coast FL
TPS Checks and Adjustment
One thing I forgot to mention before, when adjusting the TPS is to do it with the engine hot OR I have done it on a cold engine (I was tired of getting burned) if you temporarily defeat the Fast Cam operation as described below.
As I previously mentioned I prefer to adjust the TPS using Voltages VS Resistances VS light method. The following info should allow you to pick any method you like.
As I previously mentioned I prefer to adjust the TPS using Voltages VS Resistances VS light method. The following info should allow you to pick any method you like.
02-06-08 | 04:49 PM
#31
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Thanks for another excellent post, very helpful. I got errands done today, but Mom and shopping interfered with doing anything with the car. I've got a couple added pics
http://s191.photobucket.com/albums/z...stjeff_photos/
off to work I go......
http://s191.photobucket.com/albums/z...stjeff_photos/
off to work I go......
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