Hi, would someone have the "diagram" on how to make a light tester for adjsuting the TPS.
The TPS on my (1987 N/a) is out of whack and I need to have it adjusted. I searched the forum on how to make a tester but what I found was not clear to me. I am hoping maybe someone has a diagram.

my regards

Pete

 

I think those testers are kind of pointless. just set it with a multimeter.

 

lol seriously. Go to walmart, buy a multimeter for $10. You will probably thank yourself later.

 

Ok..it's just when it comes to meters like that I'm dumbfounded...I wouldn't even know how to go about adjusting my TPS..this is new to me...

 

I tried the multimeter method andf failed, over and over. I got fed up and made a test light, and it was set perferctly with it.

Go to radio shack and purchase two 12v led's. I got the "5mm Red LED Assembly".

Get a baggy of male spade connectors.

On my particular LEDs I bought, the was a yellow and red wire on them. The red was ground and yellow was 12v (whatever you buy may be different). Twist the two ground leads together and crimp a spade connector then put a spade connector on each positive wire.

That's it.

The whole thing cost me $8 with sales tax.

 

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html

Or buy a meter and backprobe the Green/Red wire of the TPS and adjust the screw til you see one (1) volt dc. All connectors connected and the engine fully hot when doing that. Engine can be idling when doing it that way or engine off, as long as the engine is fully hot.

 

Thank guys,

jjwalker is it suppose to look like this see link;
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html

or is this for Testing Codes only ??

Pete

 

Thats for both but you have to build the stupid test light checker. Buy the voltmeter, put it on DC Volts (V with a straight line above it) and backprobe the green/x TPS wire with the key ON with the engine fully warmed up. Turn the adjustment screw until you reach 1V, done. Make sure it sweeps up to 4.7V-5V at WOT.

 

[QUOTE=jjwalker;9164760]I
Twist the two ground leads together and crimp a spade connector then put a spade connector on each positive wire.

jjwalker, in the attached link they say to attach both live "RED" together and have two "BALCK"grounds..??

Unless is used RED as the ground ??

http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/TPS_Adjustment

 

Let us say you bought two LED lights as shown in the article.

Each LED has two wires.

One of those wires is most likely RED.

Strip the insulation of those two RED wires and install both in the same spade terminal.

Now you have one wire of each of the LED's left over.

Put a spade terminal on each of those wires.

Now you have three spade terminals.

Go to the TPS CHECK CONNECTOR. Put the spade with the RED wires into the socket that has a black/white wire. Then put the other two spades in the other two sockets. Matters not which socket those last two spades go into. But the RED wires spade has to go into the socket that has the black/white wire.

Now your ready to use the test assy you made.

The RED wires are positive and the other two wires are negative. When those other two wires get a ground signal from the ECU, the LED light will light up.

 

Your patient , Thanks. Last qwestion and I'll stop bugging you.
Can I use any lights, say a (2) 12 volt flashlight bulbes or does it have to be LED's

 

I'm confused, some say;
"This wire is your common ground wire, this will attach to the Black w/white stripe wire (ground) on the gang plug"

see below instruction:

"Making a Throttle Position Sensor Test Lamp (Dana Sullivan)

You can make a test light yourself fairly easily. Take two turn signal bulbs or similar type lights and solder a piece of wire between the two cans of the bulbs. Take another length of wire and solder one end to one can. This wire is your common ground wire, this will attach to the Black w/white stripe wire (ground) on the gang plug.
There should be 2 wires running out of the two remaining connectors. Solder a piece of wire to the + terminal of each light bulb and run one each to the two remaining connectors.

Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment (Glenn Heidel)

1) Warm up the engine, then stop it.
2) Connect the checker lamp to the check connector (green).
3) Turn the ignition switch on and check whether one of the lamp illuminates.
4) If both lamps illuminate or if neither does, turn the throttle sensor adjust screw until one of the lamps illuminates.
a) If both lamps illuminate turn the adjust screw clockwise.
b) If both lamps do not illuminate turn the adjust screw counterclockwise."

Hailers, your saying:
Go to the TPS CHECK CONNECTOR. Put the spade with the RED (you said it's +) wires into the socket that has a black/white wire.

 

Use a LED bought from Radio Shack for a couple of bucks.

Never use a common light bulb EVER.

The TPS check connector is green in color and has three sockets. One socket has a black/white wire. That wire is battery power and is fed from the EGI COMP fuse if memory serves.

The other two wires come from the ECU and have ground signals put on them by the ECU at a given time. Both of those wires are also spliced into the Relief and Switching solenoids.

I did not write a procedure on how to use the LED's to set the TPS. That is in the FSM in the Fuel and Emissions section. And also on the TEAM FC3S site and the RotorWiki site.

The engine has to be fully HOT when this procedure is done. That is because the water thermowax is linked to the throttle linkage and can move that linkage. When the water thermowax is fully heated up by the water in the engine, then the water thermowax's piston will be fully extended and the throttle plates will now be fully closed.

The bottom line is, that when the engine is fully hot and the throttle plates are fully closed, the output value of the TPS to the ECU will be ....one volt dc. If you use the LED light assy to set the TPS and do it right, you'll find that the output wire of the TPS is outputting ...one volt dc to the ECU.

I along with others skip the LED light procedure and that other procedure where they use a ohm meter to set the TPS and generally fiddle **** around, and just get down to the nitty gritty and set the TPS screw til it outputs ...one volt dc with a fully hot engine. The engine can be idling or not idling to do that. Matters not one whit. See the FUEL AND EMISSIONS seciton for the INPUT on pin 2G at idle (approx 1vdc is the answer).

The green three socket TPS check connector is ignored when setting the TPS using the output voltage as the set point. The TPS connector itself is backprobed i.e the green/red wire of the connector.

When you use the LED light assy to set the TPS,. you'll find that the resulting one light on means the Relief solenoid has a ground on it and is energized. The other LED light out means the Switching solenoid has no gnd on it and therefore isn't energized.

That's basically what the ONE LIGHT ONE...ONE LIGHT OFF means.

http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/TPS_Adjustment

 

.

 

ok so I'm trying to use my multimeter to do my tps, I warmed it up, and it just stays at 0, VDC

I accidentally adjusted it by ohms before multimeter worked when I tried that...anyone know what I'm doing wrong?

 

Well I noticed that when I turn it to V (the one with the line above it), it will start in mV, and will kinda bounce around already without doing anything. As soon as I plug in the positive wire it just hits 0 and wont move.

 

Tried Hailers suggestions as seen here using kOhm instead directly to the TPS (apparently that wasnt so bad after all)
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=tps+adjust

I guess it's ok after all...so thats cool, I still dont know what the hell my problem is

 

Well if you were to do it according to the output of the TPS, you'd go to the TPS plug. You'd leave the plug connected up. Then put the meter on dcvolts. The neg lead of the meter to a known ground point, like the body of the alternator. Then using a paper clip or similar, backprobe the GREEN/RED wire of the TPS connector. The half of the TPS plug that is a part of the EM harness is where the green/red wire is. The meter should show voltage when that wire is backprobed and the meters negative lead is on a known ground point. Key to on, engine either idling or off, matters not.

To make sure the meter is on dcvolts, go to the battery and put the neg lead on the neg terminal of the battery and the positive lead of the meter on the positive batt post. Should read 12-4vdc. Then you know your meter is on dcvolts and not something strange like acvolts.

Again, the electrical plugs are left connected together to do this. No paper clip? Then use a sewing needle or similar to backprobe the wire at the connector or use the sewing needle to pierce the insulation on the green/red wire.

Casey Stoner is leading free practice number two at Jerez at 3:25am Central time.

 

hailers can you use a safc to set the tps....and what screen do you use

 

No

 

Got to the MAIN MENU.

Select ETC

From ETC select Sensor Check

Sensor Check should show Thrt: xxxxx

The xxxxx above would be voltage input of the TPS to the ECU.

If the engine is HOT the reading should be approx 1vdc. Even 0.95 or 1.05vdc is APPROX

See if that works for you.

Later when the engine is cold, that display will read a much higher voltage. That is normal. Watch the display as the engine heats up. The voltage will drop incrementally til it's approx 1vdc once more. Normal as Abbie Hoffman and apple pie.

If the reading is not approx 1vdc, then if the engine is hot, look at the display as you turn the TPS adjustment screw til the display reads 1vdc. Makes setting the TPS much easier than other methods. Set the TPS with the engine idling. No sense shutting it off. Idling keeps the engine temp up.

RTEK 2.1 are different. The display on a RTEK palm display should read 20% at idle.

I have not had a SAFC in the car in years and I read the above from the SAFC manual. Seems to follow memory.