Torque wrench necessary?
#1
Rotary Dynamics
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Torque wrench necessary?
I've installed a complete rear-end loosely, and wanted to torque it all up to spec, however I got screwed by my local Canadian Tire and instead of a Torque wrench with Ft-Lbs, I have In-lbs and it won't do.
Is it necessary to torque them up to spec as per the FSM or is it ok to just tighten her up nice and snug?
Thanks guys.
Is it necessary to torque them up to spec as per the FSM or is it ok to just tighten her up nice and snug?
Thanks guys.
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with anything suspension... ALWAYS USE A TORQUE WRENCH!! please. that includes the driveline. you wouldn't want your rearend coming loose at highway speeds would you?
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usually if the torque wrench shows in/lb, it doesnt go to very high torque specs. If you have had experience with lots of suspension jobs and know your impact gun or breaker bar real well, you might be ok. Germans like to call it "Gudentight"
When you say "rear end" what part do you mean? The diff internals? (ok torque wrench) The rear subframe, front and rear diff mounts? All the suspension? I usually use a torque wrench for engine builds
When you say "rear end" what part do you mean? The diff internals? (ok torque wrench) The rear subframe, front and rear diff mounts? All the suspension? I usually use a torque wrench for engine builds
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#9
Once, when I was going to work, my rear suspension came apart because i did the toe steer eliminators with no torque wrench or threadlocker. The rear passenger tire toed out about 20 degrees when the bolt loosened and slid out. Luckily I was slowing down to enter the parking lot at about 15mph and this didn't happen on the freeway, I probably would have died. The bolt was held in by the suspension binding it up so i got really damn lucky to make it back home after tightening that back up.
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Yeah in as in inch-lbs. I bought it on sale before Christmas as the box said 30-250Ft-Lbs. When I needed to use it his weekend for the first time the actal wrench just said Inch-Lbs. I don't have a receipt so they won't exchange it...
When I said rear-end, its everything: Sub-frame, LSD, Conrtol arms, hubs, axles,etc... Everything.
I thought I'd need it, just wanted to hope I guess ha.
I wonder if I can use a an extension on the torque wrench. Since the wrench is about 1ft long, at ~20Ft-lbs maxed out, a 1 ft extension should bump it up to ~40ft-lbs.
T= Force x Distance: ~20lbs x 1 ft = 20ft-lbs
SO 20lbs x 2 ft= 40ft-lbs? The specs do have a nice range for most of the parts so it may work?
When I said rear-end, its everything: Sub-frame, LSD, Conrtol arms, hubs, axles,etc... Everything.
I thought I'd need it, just wanted to hope I guess ha.
I wonder if I can use a an extension on the torque wrench. Since the wrench is about 1ft long, at ~20Ft-lbs maxed out, a 1 ft extension should bump it up to ~40ft-lbs.
T= Force x Distance: ~20lbs x 1 ft = 20ft-lbs
SO 20lbs x 2 ft= 40ft-lbs? The specs do have a nice range for most of the parts so it may work?
#11
The spring tension is what sets the torque, you will not significantly increase the torque by adding a bar on the end. For example, if you apply 20lbs force on a wrench at a foot from the pivot, you're applying 20ft lbs. Now double the distance, apply 20lbs, you're applying 40ft lbs. BUT, use a torque wrench that's a foot long, set it to 20ftlbs, apply 20lbs at a foot and it will click. Double the distance and apply only about 10lbs and it will click. Same torque. It will change it a little, and I still don't completely understand why (and I've seen it proven on a torque tester), but it will not come close to doubling.
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