Ronac

If I attempt to make my own torque brace, would it be logical to incorporate a damper or a shock absorber? Or will it totally kill the purpose of a torque brace?

Project84

I think it will be counter productive to use a damper type device.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

It would serve no purpose, other than to allow the car to flex slowly, you either want to eliminate the flex altogether, or just leave it be. It'd be a bit less 'harsh' perhaps, but you really can't notice anyway.

Ronac

I was thinking that the damper would take out the small vibrations but still serve as a torque brace.

I guess I was mistaken by what the damper will do...

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Well, generally you're not bolting it to anything that really is going to effect vibrations at all, the only time it really works is when you're cornering hard, it prevents your strut towers from flexing inwards, keeping the car even and flat. Bumps, small corners, and normal driving won't have any effect on the bar, or increase any vibrations/feel.

Ronac

Are you talking about a strut bar???
I think were're on the wrong page...

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Oh, I was thinking strut bar (as most people mention those) doh I'd kind of follow the same mentality however, i don't think it vibrates enough that it's really any concern if you were to just run a straight bar. Sorry bout that, sleep deprived

Ronac

Hehe icic
Go get off the internet and get some sleep. Isn't it like 3am in Boston?

Ni5mo180SX

I think its a pretty good idea. Most people i've spoken to with solid bars complain of a sharp increase in vibration & harshness. The damper would help a bit with that i'd imagine. Check out aerodynes torque damper for ideas. Also, HPI makes a pretty broad range.

novicaine

I qas gonna use a damperless rod ut mount it on rubber isolators

SureShot

You can solid mount one end, but the other end must have no metal to metal contact or it will buzz like mad.
I made a rubber pad at the strut bolt end.

dorifc3s

^now that's ghetto.

SureShot

I prefer to call it "crude but effective"..

Or maybe "elegantly simple".

YakATK

Don't use a damper or anything. Just look at the RB Torque Brace, its a solid bar.

Ronac

I've look at the RB one, I think it looks kinda skimpy. That rod looks really fragile...

YakATK

My friend had it in his car. The rod is about 1/4inch thick or so I think. Its not bad, he said he noticed a difference with it for sure.

novicaine

I dont think that looks ghetto. looks effective to me. What lbs. damper would you guys use? Mcmaster-Carr.com has some inexpensive ones.

Ronac

I'll attempt to piece on together from cheap ghetto parts.
hehe

Cheers!

it's not ghetto... it's actually pretty well done. I thought of the same thing, then i reconsidered it because i'm pretty sure the UIM which bolts to the LIM is not suppose to see a shear force for the UIM which then creates a bending moment of the lower intake mani.

Ronac

You have a good point...
I could make bracket to attach it to the engine itself, but thats a lot more work...
I can barely find a place to attach a bracket to the side wall.

SureShot

My rough estimate comes to no more than 150 pounds of compression force at that point.

DelSlow

iTrader: (2)

how did you come up with that estimate and at what point? and what makes you think its a compressive force? I just ordered an RB one, ill let you know how it works. my motor torques really bad, almost an inch, and it causes me to hit the gate on the 2->3 shift sometimes.

SureShot

Max torque ~200 ft-lbs
Distance from shaft to brace mount ~16"
200x12/16 = 150 lbs

The shaft turns clockwise (viewed from the front)
The torque reaction is CCW giving a compression load on a brace to the passenger side.

That much motion may indicate a torn motor mount.

Ronac

Making a bracket from the UIM isn't a good idea then, right?

bingoboy

you know...the big name brand FD torque braces use a damper, at least the couple i have seen.