Tore down engine. Heres whats wrong!!
#38
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I don't think you're going to have much engine life even with solid seals, but I'm sure you may be able to do a little better than 400 miles, and make sure your damn timing isn't off the charts
#39
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I posted the only two pics you sent.
I have a solution!
JB weld the corner seals in the rotors. hahaha Only I'm dead serious here. Since you don't care about engine life... or your own. (considering the powerband of that engine in relation to flywheel integrity) Make some fast runs and then watch her pop all over again.
Lube up one of the old apex seals with something really good at avoiding bonding with the JB weld and set the corner seal with that as a guide. Should hold together (not seal for ****) and allow you to run the engine for a little while anyways.
I have a solution!
JB weld the corner seals in the rotors. hahaha Only I'm dead serious here. Since you don't care about engine life... or your own. (considering the powerband of that engine in relation to flywheel integrity) Make some fast runs and then watch her pop all over again.
Lube up one of the old apex seals with something really good at avoiding bonding with the JB weld and set the corner seal with that as a guide. Should hold together (not seal for ****) and allow you to run the engine for a little while anyways.
#41
I am the Anti-Ch(rice)t
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that is one ugly port, the guy didnt have the steadiest of hands, huh??
how come i dont see "clearanced rotors, 110 psi OPR, hardened stationaries, and the numerous other mods required to actually use the power that engine would make?" not to mention a scatter shield for when your flywheel explodes at 11,000.
i doubt you would ever get any decent times out of those with your set-up, the powerband would be way out of range for your engine.
you may increase peak hp in your band, but with an 8k rev limiter it would probably have yeilded nothing more than some fantastic burnouts.
Justin
how come i dont see "clearanced rotors, 110 psi OPR, hardened stationaries, and the numerous other mods required to actually use the power that engine would make?" not to mention a scatter shield for when your flywheel explodes at 11,000.
i doubt you would ever get any decent times out of those with your set-up, the powerband would be way out of range for your engine.
you may increase peak hp in your band, but with an 8k rev limiter it would probably have yeilded nothing more than some fantastic burnouts.
Justin
#43
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Actually I have a 9k rpm redline I already tested it. An F9 Halteck can take care of that.
The Centerforce Flywheel has a 13,000 rpm limit not 11k
You dont need all that hardend stationary crap to use power...I have friends who rebuild thier own engine with huge streetports , carbs and used apex seals even used water gaskets exc and they go to the street races all the time and hit 11000 rpms on the 52 down here in Sandiego. They beat turbo cars and even out last them.
I swere you guys dont know what your talking about. Were not road racing profesionals or NHRA dragsters. All the stationary hardend **** doesent mean anything when im on the street hitting 10k rpms. If it blows after 20k or more miles I can rebuild another in less then 12 hours complete start to finish.
The Centerforce Flywheel has a 13,000 rpm limit not 11k
You dont need all that hardend stationary crap to use power...I have friends who rebuild thier own engine with huge streetports , carbs and used apex seals even used water gaskets exc and they go to the street races all the time and hit 11000 rpms on the 52 down here in Sandiego. They beat turbo cars and even out last them.
I swere you guys dont know what your talking about. Were not road racing profesionals or NHRA dragsters. All the stationary hardend **** doesent mean anything when im on the street hitting 10k rpms. If it blows after 20k or more miles I can rebuild another in less then 12 hours complete start to finish.
#44
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well if you love rebuilding every 600 miles go for it. there's a reason people make engines look pretty.
pretty = clean
clean = not crap
you can keep your figure eight ports, i'll stick to a street port.
pretty = clean
clean = not crap
you can keep your figure eight ports, i'll stick to a street port.
#45
I'm a boost creep...
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Originally posted by von
Actually I have a 9k rpm redline I already tested it...
You dont need all that hardend stationary crap to use power...
I swere you guys dont know what your talking about...
Actually I have a 9k rpm redline I already tested it...
You dont need all that hardend stationary crap to use power...
I swere you guys dont know what your talking about...
All the stationary hardend **** doesent mean anything when im on the street hitting 10k rpms.
If it blows after 20k or more miles.
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Last edited by NZConvertible; 04-24-03 at 09:04 PM.
#49
Rotary Freak
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Morons. This is my engine. When you drag 1/4 and do experimental stuff you really dont need all the clearancing and balancing ****. How many times will I have to say this...My friends motor with just about the same port is still going strong after 1 year. He constintly hits 12k
NZ Conv whats up ??? How many engines have you rebuilt ? I reved my engine to the limiter for 5 seconds ask nitronick!!! Right after that I took apart the engine and guess what ? clean as a wistle. No chatter , no nothing even with heavy shity S4 rotors and unbalanced S5 flywheel ( OHH NOOOO ) Except for that one corner seal because the port was to big.
So yes rotories will hold up to reving as long as you dont detonate or over heat... Your trying to tell me I cant but I can prove you wrong...You guys sound like a lefties ( political ) unwiling to listen to reason. I already said you dont need that stuff for drag racing. And if the port was smaller up top to not break the corner seal then it would last as long as a stock port engine as long as not raced.
Nobody has an argument here. I know this particular port was to big. I didnt port it. And realize that I dont give a **** if it lasted me less than 10k miles comprende?
And nobody is even knowledgable enoughf to tell me if solid corner seals will work but you can tell me that I cannot rev a rotory and that im stupid for trying to race it or some ****.
Some of you guys are worse than the miata forum members
NZ Conv whats up ??? How many engines have you rebuilt ? I reved my engine to the limiter for 5 seconds ask nitronick!!! Right after that I took apart the engine and guess what ? clean as a wistle. No chatter , no nothing even with heavy shity S4 rotors and unbalanced S5 flywheel ( OHH NOOOO ) Except for that one corner seal because the port was to big.
So yes rotories will hold up to reving as long as you dont detonate or over heat... Your trying to tell me I cant but I can prove you wrong...You guys sound like a lefties ( political ) unwiling to listen to reason. I already said you dont need that stuff for drag racing. And if the port was smaller up top to not break the corner seal then it would last as long as a stock port engine as long as not raced.
Nobody has an argument here. I know this particular port was to big. I didnt port it. And realize that I dont give a **** if it lasted me less than 10k miles comprende?
And nobody is even knowledgable enoughf to tell me if solid corner seals will work but you can tell me that I cannot rev a rotory and that im stupid for trying to race it or some ****.
Some of you guys are worse than the miata forum members
#50
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just use the previously said lock tite method. but take it TO ThA MaX! and lock tite everything! then rev it to 12k like you did for that whole 5 sec again, you'll be in the 12s no time.