TO4 on stock ecu-can the odds be beat?!
12-02-02, 10:33 PM
#26
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You can make good power with the stock ecu. My old 87 turbo2 made 318rwhp at 10psi. The car had ported motor and t04b, front mount, full 3 inch exhaust, and probably other little things. I had stock primaries and 720 secondaries and a walbro pump. I was running the stock ecu with a marvelspeed FCD and thats it. No afc no nohting like that. I made 318rwhp with the stock ecu. Power is there to be made with the stock ecu, most just dont wanna try in fear of blowing the motor.
12-02-02, 11:52 PM
#28
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you could run like 12 psi if your motor isnt ported, i dont even have my b/c plugged in and i hit like 15 psi on the stock turbo, i do have an fcon though, i might get my clutch fixed and put it on the dyno just to see what i was making.
12-03-02, 06:23 PM
#29
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i took over trinity's set up and ran a little more boost without a ported motor. end result......i'm getting a marvelspeed motor built up with a haltech or something of the sort to run that extra boost.
but if you run prolly no more than 10psi on the turbo, you should be fine for a long while
but if you run prolly no more than 10psi on the turbo, you should be fine for a long while
Last edited by rx7-rage; 12-03-02 at 06:28 PM.
12-03-02, 11:28 PM
#32
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I understand the advantages of standalone, fully. BUT when you are on a tight budget after paying all the $ for the parts involved in a big turbo, and you already have a fuel controller, its easier to continue to drive the car without a standalone than to keep it parked till you can afford one. I will be paying around 1-2000$ for a bigger turbo , and even with wholesale prices the Haltech is still big bucks to a schmoe like me. Plus my wife and I are looking to buy a house in the next couple years, justifying a couple hundred here and there is a lot easier than 1000$ at once on a engine computer! Id be in the doghouse!
I will deal with running low boost for a season or so, then when $ is less tight I will get one(Ihope).
Anyway noone has really pointed out any mechanicaliy specific facts on why it is so hard to pull off succesfully, only posted examples of people. Not really doubting peoples opinions just wanna know what are the exact reasons?
I will deal with running low boost for a season or so, then when $ is less tight I will get one(Ihope).
Anyway noone has really pointed out any mechanicaliy specific facts on why it is so hard to pull off succesfully, only posted examples of people. Not really doubting peoples opinions just wanna know what are the exact reasons?
12-04-02, 01:00 AM
#33
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the 87 TII i ahve in my garage was a racecar from japan and it had a To4 with 3 inch downpipe, hks manifold and wastegate, also remember a greddy rebic among other things...but after i bought it, the last owner took a lot of those things out...it had a stock ECU and was kicking *** all over town until it was sold to this punk who knew nothing about rx-7s at all...he ran it to the ground.
Fred
Fred
12-04-02, 01:37 AM
#34
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Originally posted by boostmotorsport
I understand the advantages of standalone, fully. BUT when you are on a tight budget after paying all the $ for the parts involved in a big turbo, and you already have a fuel controller, its easier to continue to drive the car without a standalone than to keep it parked till you can afford one. I will be paying around 1-2000$ for a bigger turbo , and even with wholesale prices the Haltech is still big bucks to a schmoe like me. Plus my wife and I are looking to buy a house in the next couple years, justifying a couple hundred here and there is a lot easier than 1000$ at once on a engine computer! Id be in the doghouse!
I understand the advantages of standalone, fully. BUT when you are on a tight budget after paying all the $ for the parts involved in a big turbo, and you already have a fuel controller, its easier to continue to drive the car without a standalone than to keep it parked till you can afford one. I will be paying around 1-2000$ for a bigger turbo , and even with wholesale prices the Haltech is still big bucks to a schmoe like me. Plus my wife and I are looking to buy a house in the next couple years, justifying a couple hundred here and there is a lot easier than 1000$ at once on a engine computer! Id be in the doghouse!
12-04-02, 02:59 AM
#35
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Originally posted by boostmotorsport
I understand the advantages of standalone, fully. BUT when you are on a tight budget after paying all the $ for the parts involved in a big turbo, and you already have a fuel controller, its easier to continue to drive the car without a standalone than to keep it parked till you can afford one. I will be paying around 1-2000$ for a bigger turbo , and even with wholesale prices the Haltech is still big bucks to a schmoe like me. Plus my wife and I are looking to buy a house in the next couple years, justifying a couple hundred here and there is a lot easier than 1000$ at once on a engine computer! Id be in the doghouse!
I will deal with running low boost for a season or so, then when $ is less tight I will get one(Ihope).
Anyway noone has really pointed out any mechanicaliy specific facts on why it is so hard to pull off succesfully, only posted examples of people. Not really doubting peoples opinions just wanna know what are the exact reasons?
I understand the advantages of standalone, fully. BUT when you are on a tight budget after paying all the $ for the parts involved in a big turbo, and you already have a fuel controller, its easier to continue to drive the car without a standalone than to keep it parked till you can afford one. I will be paying around 1-2000$ for a bigger turbo , and even with wholesale prices the Haltech is still big bucks to a schmoe like me. Plus my wife and I are looking to buy a house in the next couple years, justifying a couple hundred here and there is a lot easier than 1000$ at once on a engine computer! Id be in the doghouse!
I will deal with running low boost for a season or so, then when $ is less tight I will get one(Ihope).
Anyway noone has really pointed out any mechanicaliy specific facts on why it is so hard to pull off succesfully, only posted examples of people. Not really doubting peoples opinions just wanna know what are the exact reasons?
12-04-02, 11:23 AM
#36
Originally posted by TonyTurboII
Microtech units are only $500, theres almost no reason to pass that up. Ive blown one engine, due to faulty wiring and AFM. They cost me AN ENGINE! After that I vowed not to use the old shitty wiring in the car, and you shouldnt either.
Microtech units are only $500, theres almost no reason to pass that up. Ive blown one engine, due to faulty wiring and AFM. They cost me AN ENGINE! After that I vowed not to use the old shitty wiring in the car, and you shouldnt either.
I am also looking at the Microtech, seems like a good unit.
12-04-02, 12:05 PM
#37
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I'm interested, but I'm looking for manufacturer's/vendor's pages with REAL information on igniton resolution, fuel resolution, CPU clock speed, fuel delivery modes, ignition timing split, etc.
Anyone? Anyone? Beuller?
Brandon
Anyone? Anyone? Beuller?
Brandon
12-05-02, 09:35 AM
#40
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In California....(f'in smog law), I believe the bang for your buck is the Microtech system. If you need to switch back to stock, all you need to do is disconnect the unit.....back to stock.
I would thou like to remove all the chk valves and other smog parts. I am looking into others that can provide a good, inexpensive way to keep in the green zone at all times. Plus retain or add the warm-up cycle (add switch valve to make it seem stock when cold). All systems now adays are very easy to install, using the stock type sensors. The Tec2 on the otherhand is a nightmare.
I would thou like to remove all the chk valves and other smog parts. I am looking into others that can provide a good, inexpensive way to keep in the green zone at all times. Plus retain or add the warm-up cycle (add switch valve to make it seem stock when cold). All systems now adays are very easy to install, using the stock type sensors. The Tec2 on the otherhand is a nightmare.
12-06-02, 01:59 PM
#42
Re: microtech
Originally posted by sublimeracing
Where can you get a microtech from? Vendor? website?
please tell us
Where can you get a microtech from? Vendor? website?
please tell us
http://www.japperformance.com/
12-06-02, 04:36 PM
#43
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Re: microtech
Originally posted by sublimeracing
Where can you get a microtech from? Vendor? website?
please tell us
Where can you get a microtech from? Vendor? website?
please tell us
A-Spec Tuning
21 w. fullerton
Addison, il 60101
(630)543-8890 Fax (630)543-8815
www.a-spectuning.com
Your Friendly Neignborhood Banzai!
12-07-02, 12:29 AM
#47
Originally posted by boostmotorsport
nyone know where ther are any wewbsites with specs, and pricing on the Microtech unit? The fact that its only 500$ makes me a bit skeptic.
nyone know where ther are any wewbsites with specs, and pricing on the Microtech unit? The fact that its only 500$ makes me a bit skeptic.
www.horsepowerinabox.com
12-07-02, 06:49 AM
#48
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Originally posted by Little Donny
I love it how more and more threads are turning into "buy a microtech"
I love it how more and more threads are turning into "buy a microtech"
I just hear people talking about this good $500 ECU, so I suggested it. 
12-07-02, 10:15 PM
#50
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Originally posted by No7Yet
WTF? Why do people think the stock ECU sucks so bad? Dale Clark was running a T04 and Cartech FMIC, with S-AFC and AIC, and was making enough power to break the dowel pins seats in his S4 motor.
With the right TLAs and careful tuning, you can very much run a big T04 on the stock ECU.
Brandon
WTF? Why do people think the stock ECU sucks so bad? Dale Clark was running a T04 and Cartech FMIC, with S-AFC and AIC, and was making enough power to break the dowel pins seats in his S4 motor.
With the right TLAs and careful tuning, you can very much run a big T04 on the stock ECU.
Brandon
"Dale Clark was running a T04 and Cartech FMIC, with S-AFC and AIC, and was detonating hard enough to break the dowel pins seats in his S4 motor."
yet another good example of TUNING......