kevino

88TII. For me, I've most frequently encountered flooding when I start my car with the engine already warmed up (like if you turned your car off to pump gas and then start it again right away). Although these cars are fuel injected, I have found that if I hold the accelerator in slightly during a start up of a warm engine, it will start without flooding every time. Try to hold the accelerator at about half way to the stiff point of the accelerator (or if you have a S-AFC shoot for a throttle position % of about 20). You don't want to hold the accelerator in too far though, because this will cause it to flood! I don't know if this will help anyone else who has trouble starting a warm engine, but it works for me every time.

Nitrometano

You can use a power swith to control when to turn on the fuel pump. This will can help you with the fooling problems.

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

a good condition rotary engine with all electronics working correclty, wont require the petal to be pressed AT ALL to start up normal everytime....

this would mean you have some type or problem, low compression, leaky injectors, maybe a small vacume leak, or somthing that isnt quite right.....

for instance my 89 with very good compression all around warm, i ussually have to press the pedal a lil bit or just floor it and it fires up.... i belive i have a small vac leak somewhere tho. as my idle is pretty rough...

batmang

^^^^
i think that may be my problem as well

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

I don't think there is a single FC in existence which runs normally(on a stock ecu of course/aftermarket ems don't count) :P

cool_as_crap

^true^

pfcmooney

Yea, mine idles rough, and floods all the time, i think i'm going to make a fuel cut switch, and look for vac leaks....

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

mine USED to fire right up everytime without flooding on n/a form............... USED TO...

vaughnc

Everyone have your injectors professionall cleaned & blueprinted/rebuilt.

I've seen high compression engines (ie 85-120PSI on all faces):
1) Light Flood after 5 min, clears by itself after 35 min
2) Bad flood if it sits for 3-5 days, requires 1 capful ATF/oil be added into the sparkplug hole to re-establish the oil film & restore compression
3) REALLY BAD/0 compression flood. Requires 2 capfuls of oil be added into the sparkplug hole.

Unless you shut-it-off cold or the engine's got low HOT compression, t's leaky injectors.

If your car STARTS LIKE A CHAMP when cold in the summer but coughs & sputters in the cold winter, it could be leaky injectors.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Mine always has. As long as the car is in good shape, in good tune, and HAS NOT BEEN HACKED, then there should be no issues.

TitosToy

i agree. had my s4 for 3 yrs, 88k when bought and i driven it 18k mi., everything bone stock except cone filter and only flooded twice.

Falcoms

Same for me, up until I sent the injectors out for a preventative rebuild... Yeah, that worked...

Flyingskippy

I was told that if the motor won't start because of flooding, to hold the accelerator to the floor, and wait for it to fire then immediately let the accelerator back up.

pfcmooney

Yea, this works for me most of the time, but if it doesn't work then it's flooded like hell!