mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

on my 88 TII, i went to check the timing the other day and noticed that when i check the leading, the pointer is spot on on the yellow mark. when i check the trailing i can't see the orange mark. i am performing the timing test with the engine at normal operating temperature, the idle is aout 1Krpm, and i'm using a timing light that needs power from the car 9i.e. hooked up to the battery with the engine running). am i 180 degrees off?

pdtaylor18

well it says to ground the 1 pin green test connector before you do the test. All it says to do is connect the HT lead to the front trailing side (red timing mark). Can not see anything about the leading side of things.

john ward

iTrader: (7)

are your leads long enough to look around the pulley for a mark. and are you getting good flashes from primary ignition

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

You need to get the idle under 1k RPM before those timing marks will be real accurate for you, best is 750RPM. This has been mine and others' experience. Don't forget to make use of your initial set coupler, BAC screw, and variable resistor.

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

at 750rpm idle, timing split will be 15 degees: -5 leading, -20 Trailing. as soon as you increase rpms past a certain point (800?) , the timing changes to zero split, both L and T at about +14 deg. If your leading and timing marks are in the same spot, your idle is too high. If you set your timing with like this, it will be way off

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

it seems that the idle was too close to 1K. i was able to drop it a rch by adjusting the bacv. i rechecked the timing and the leading mark is dead on the needle and the trailing is just a hair away from the needle. i didnt think the advance was that much over 1K. engine still runs like garbage (idles like a street port) but it seems the timing is not my issue.