ddub

This has been explained numerous times!

Colder air coming in is always better, ALWAYS, period. So what if it gets a little heated back up, you think it'll still get as hot as air taken from inside the engine bay?

ddub

Like people that slap the filter directly on the turbo? Heh

BDoty311

Ya, exactly. That makes sense.

Actually I have no room to talk, thats where mine is right now. But I'm still in the break-in period, so I'm not too concerned with performance.

NZConvertible

The filter does not need to be mounted at the front to make it a "cold air intake". You simply have to ensure that only air from outside the engine bay is entering the filter. A filter mounted on the AFM, surrounded by an effective heat shield and fed outside air via a duct will have the same effect, as does the stock air box.

Misleading marketing practices does not make the term redundant.
Either is is a true cold air intake or it is not.

Hell no it isn't. From a modifier's point of view it's no good at all. Many stock airboxes can be made to flow extremely well by replacing the intake duct with a larger one and adding bellmouths to the entry and exits inside the box. These mods are basically impossible with the FC's stock airbox.

And to add to the topic in general, I'd love for someone to offer credible information that explains how allowing the engine to inhale hot engine bay air is better for performance than air at ambient temperature. If the method you use as a cold air intake is a restriction to airflow, you're doing it wrong.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

i made a cold air intake for my 91 TII after i had run on the haltech for a while monitoring intake temps.
i can pop my hood when i get off the interstate, and my intake manifolds are actually COLD. the IS is cold, the CAI pipe is COLD, and the UIM is COLD. doing this mod dropped my intake temps by atleast 25 degrees in boost, and atleast 30 degrees cruising. its a great mod and alot of people underestimate it.

raising arizona

And again Mr NZ has his theory and I have mine. I make 500rwhp from a T60-1 turbo with a 7 year old motor I ported, so I seriously doubt if I'm doing it wrong.

I don't recall ever seeing your numbers or intake temps.

kenn_chan

So you are running your AFM after your FMIC, so inbetween the throttle body, and the FMIC? got any photos? sound intriguing.

kenn

IOW after the turbo?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

yeah thats what he means. He is going to post some pics he said if he could find them.

raising arizona

Which part? NZ's numbers or my old faithful port job? Keep in mind I had a master Rotary guy for guidence.

I don't run the AFM inline anymore as I have a Wolf EMS, blah blah. But Yes all you so is run the AFM after FMIC on the way back to the TB. I had photos but it was so long ago ai'll dig them up. Your from Japan I would think forsure some guy out there have done that.

raising arizona

BTW, its early and i can't spell

NZConvertible

I never said you were doing it wrong. My comment was in reply to those who say a well-designed CAI is restrictive. We obviously agree on the benefits of a decent CAI, but I don't agree that the filter has to be mounted outside of the engine bay. I misread your comment about the stock airbox. When you said "The stock air box is actually better on some cars", I though you'd said "The stock air box is actually better than on some cars", referring to the FC's stock airbox. My apologies for that. You are right that some cars have airboxes that are worth keeping and modifying for better flow. Unfortunately ours isn't one of them.*

BTW, if you're going to suggest relocating the AFM post-intercooler, you should mention that some form of fuel correction (like an S-AFC) will be needed. Because of the increased air density under boost the AFM will read less air than is actually flowing, so unless fuel is added the engine will run lean.

raising arizona

Didn't mean to sound like a *****...e-mail has the effect sometimes.

Ohh and you will need a fuel correction with this AFM inline mod.. like he said.

I'm out of this thread.... good luck

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

well I finally figured out the problem with my boost escaping (pov that descided to start working). Anyways it was cold today for Louisiana (50 degrees) so I really can't tell you much other than even after driving for about 30min or so I was still boosting quick with no problems plus with the thermo wrap and cai I was able to touch my manifold without burning myself I believe that the cai is a good thing to reduce intake temps because after a while of driving I could actually feel my boost not having the power that it did when I first started driving however after the cai (and thermo wrap) I found that after driving for a period of time there was no power loss while boosting. In other words its a good cheap modification for I believe I spent like 20 bucks or so on a 92 prelude cai setup from ebay.