Ryde _Or_Die

ok here is a quote from BOOSTD 7 and from it I get that I can do my full exhaust/intake without upgrading my fuel(injectors/pump/s-afc) Is this correct?


"Without reading anybody elses list, here's mine ... I wanted to reply because I'm going to archive this thread. Since you're a Turbo guy, I'll write this aimed for turbo's.

First - baseline the car, set a goal and a budget. Part of baselining the car is making SURE everything is running right. Don't think about modding the car before it's running right. Do all the regular maintenance things; spark plugs, fuel/air filter, flush radiator, check belts, adjust TPS, etc. Then check the compression (your 105 is good), and make sure you're making the right amount of boost by installing a good boost gauge. Once it's all just right, you might want to get it on a dyno to know how much you're making without mods.

Set your budget and goals - will it be a street only car? Will you drag race, autocross, road race? What's the budget and how much of the work can you do yourself? Also consider if you must meet emissions or not.

Stage 1 mods - I say the first mod should be exhaust. If you don't need to meet emissions, that makes things much easier - you would just get a downpipe and midpipe. If you do, then keep your airpump and get a good high-flow cat to go with a downpipe. For a catback, choose wisely. Apex stuff is loud and really Honda-raspy sounding, especially with an open exhaust. If you have an open exhaust, and still want your ear drums when you turn 30, then get something that's not a straight-through design, like Racing Beat.

Next mod should be intake. There's 1000 ways to do an intake, so whatever works and fits in your budget.

By this point, you'll be running around 220-230 hp and should start thinking about getting more fuel. When you choose, consider your goals. Do you want 250 hp or 450 hp? If you're just aiming to get 250 or so, then my suggestion would be to get a Walbro in-tank fuel pump and a rising-rate fuel pressure regulator. That along with the stock injectors will be good for 260-280 hp. One cronic problem is bad wiring to the pump, and in-turn low voltage. Use a multimeter and see how much voltage the pump is getting while the cars running - it should be close to what voltage you're getting at the battery. If it's not close to 14V, then you should run new wiring to the pump.

There's a few other little things you can do, like better spark plug wires, Redline water wetter in the radiator and Redline in the diff and tranny. Things like lightening the car can also go a long way. If you don't need emissions, remove the airpump. You can also yank the A/C, power steering, sound deadening, and all kinds of little stuff. It adds up...

Stage 2 modsTo go beyond the 260-280 hp range requires a whole new level of mods and money! The most important thing at this level is fuel. You will either need larger secondary injectors or additional injectors. There are many ways to accomplish this. In order of my personal best to worst, they are:





Stand-alone engine management system such as Haltech, Wolf 3D, Electromitive, etc

Dedicated additional injector controller

Piggy-back computers like all the HKS, Apex, etc stuff

Putting 680 or 720 cc injectors in the secondaries



The best, but hardest option is the stand-alone system. This will give you unlimited upgradeability and flexibility, but you don't want to take this task on without knowing what you're doing. You'll also want a dyno with a wide-band O2 sensor nearby. Without the knowledge and proper tuning equipment, don't get a stand-alone. Additional Injector Controllers or AIC's are good, but can be limited. You're still using the stock ECU to run the stock injectors, but you then plumb in extra injectors somewhere in the intake. Again, you need ways to properly tune the car after the AIC. Piggy-back computers such as the F-CON and the Super-AFC can work, but are very limited. And putting 680's in the secondaries is only an option for the most non-descriminating RX-7 owner.

So now you've got your fuel system chosen to support your hp level. What turbo do you need to go along with it? The stock TII turbo can do up to 280 hp or so. If you get an ugraded hybrid stock, you can go up to maybe 350, and if you get a big single turbo, the sky's the limit. A good choice for around 400 hp would be a Turbonetics 60-1 Hi-Fi. The extra cost and time with the big single would be that you can't use the stock manifold. This means you'll need a custom downpipe, manifold, external wastegate, and oil/coolant plumbing to go to the turbo. With the stock turbo and stock hybrid, they're a bolt-on fit.

Keeping the intake charge is also very important, so you'll need a front mount intercooler. Actually, a bigger IC would be a good idea at any point during the modification process, but by here it's absolutely necessary. Either buy a kit that has everything you need, or get a Spearco core and have somebody make tubing for you. Either way is good, the custom way is cheaper and more fun though There's also lots of good IC's to be found in junk yards. Volvo's, turbo trucks, all kinds of things have big front mount IC's on them stock that can be adapted to work, with a little massaging by a welding shop.

I guess it's worth mentioning that a rebuilt ported motor wouldn't be a bad idea here either. I suggest using the Hurley apex seals, but it's not necessary. 3mm seals are also a good idea, but not necessary. If you can keep your car from detonating, you don't need 3mm seals ... but they do give you a little extra protection just in case. Have a nice big, smooth port job done and you'll be good to go.

Those are the biggies, other little things that would be needed are a better blow-off valve, EGT gauge (you can never have to many gauges), better radiator and possibly electric fan, boost controller, a stonger clutch like AKT or RPS turboclutch, possibly a lightweight flywheel ... and more that I can't think of right now.

Stage 3 mods - Warning, don't go to stage 3 unless your paycheck and wife can handle it. Things like full roll cages, racing seats, $2500 wheels, tow vehicles and trailers ... that's Stage 3. I think my car is somewhere in Stage 8 right now

Suspension mods - don't forget about your suspension. First thing to do is shocks and springs. Again choices - do you want adjustability or not? If you don't, get the Tokico blues and some springs like Eibach or Racing Beat. If you do want adjustability, get Tokico Illuminas and the Grond Control coil-over setup. Other things you can do to the suspension are stiffer sway bars, camber plates, new stiffer bushings.

Brake mods - you gotta stop this thing. Keep good brake fluid in your car at all times! Make sure and bleed your fluid at least once a year and use good fluid. For street use brake pads, the Hawk HPS or Axis Metalmasters will do good. Rotors, you can either use good stock ones, or get some slotted rotors. The stock calipers should be good for most uses. If you want a big brake kit, they're very expensive!

There's an infinate number of possibilites and combinations available. Just do your research, and take your time doing modifications.


__________________
<----- Ryan Scott, Webmaster----->
RX-7 Club.com and RX-8 Forum.com
Purple '87 RX-7 Turbo - Red '90 RX-7 Vert"

Felix Wankel

Well technically yeah, since going by his list you won't have an FCD on the car to let it boost high enough to pop it.

If you run intake/exhaust/fcd, you'd better get some fuel in it.

Ryde _Or_Die

Running a FCD will give you more boost? I thought it just stopped the fuel cut caused by more boost?

vosko

iTrader: (4)

running an FCD will allow the car to hit whatever boost it wants whether it be 9psi or 20 psi depending how well your wastegate is working

Ryde _Or_Die

Alright, so from your other thread and this one I take it that I will be fine with intake/fcd/dp/mp, correct? Thanks again.

Josepi

If you do what I just quoted, there is a chance you'll kill your engine. You need some sort of extra fuel to accompany the much higher than stock boost you'll get with the DP/MP.

VetteKiller

can't stress that enough.....I popped my engine with just intake and exhaust....lasted 6,000 miles with just those mods...FUEL IS A MUST!!!

vosko

iTrader: (4)

you are better off with a reprogrammed ecu you won't blowup unless you spike to like 20 psi or a fuel injector or something else is faulty. FCD's are ok but not the greatest method to running more boost

Josepi

Hey Vosko, how much was that corksport ECU?

vosko

iTrader: (4)

i think they said $300

MaxRX7

rookies.....

Ryde _Or_Die

How much boost do you usually lose by porting my wastegate?

vosko

iTrader: (4)

you don't lose boost you are keeping the car from OVERboosting by porting the wastegate. you should use a boost controller to raise or lower boost. if you are flowing too much for the wastegate easily done on 87-88 TII's you won't be able to get under say 14psi !!! but if you port the wastegate you can get it to stay at 7-10 psi. its all relative mods though

Ryde _Or_Die

I am under the impression that a boost controller can not lower your boost. Is this not correct? I was also told that by porting the wastegate it will lower your boost and that I can use a boost controller to raise it back up.

vosko

iTrader: (4)

say you put full exhaust on a TII and it hits 14psi when it's supposed to hit 7psi. the wastegate is flowing to much to control the boost so it stays open and hits 14. with a boost controller you can only lower the boost as low as the wastegate will go eg wastegate minimum is 7psi you can go 7psi to however high boost you set on the boost controller. on the boost controller you can lower or raise only as high or as low as the wastegate will go. sorry if this is kind of confusing

Felix Wankel

The only way to lower boost with a boost controller is if you are using it to raise boost in the first place. You can lower it back down to what it normally is. I'd you're going to mod your car, I'd do it this way:

full exhaust
ported wastegate
fuel pump
fcd
bov (not mandatory, but nice to have when you go to do the tid mod)
intake/tid mod
boost controller (up to about 10 psi)
SAFC
rising rate fuel pressure regulator
720cc secondaries
up boost to 12-13 psi

Ryde _Or_Die

Oh ok, no thats not confusing. I just thought you could only make the boost go up. So if I have my wastegate ported what will be the "minimum" boost or do you even have an idea? Thanks for all the replies.

Felix Wankel

Thats not right. If its flowing too much for the wastegate to keep up, a boost controller wont help it. All they do is create a leak in the wastegate line so it takes more pressure to open the wastegate. (For example, a 2 psi leak will make it need 9 psi to open a 7 psi wastegate). The only way to stop it from creeping and spiking like that is to port the wastegate, or get a S5 turbo that has a decent wastegate to begin with. Id still port the 89+ anyway.