bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...ighlight=13.07

Sorry, I had to do it.

I must not know who im talking to. Obviously if I did, I still wouldnt care. anyone that is willing to deny someone elses performance, and never have even seen the car or read about, just seems to be making foolish comments to me.

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

that guy is running a chipped ecu? he can have pretty much any size injectors and run them at whatever dyty cycles he wants to. what does it have to do anything with a mostly stock car?

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Who said anything about a mostly stock car. If im correct, someone said that adding fuel to an NA doesnt do anything.

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

his car is ported, that needs more fuel, it could be a very large port. he is runnign a chipped ecu those 1600 could be only running at 1/4 of the max duty cycle. they could not even BE 1600cc.

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Ummmmmm...so to answer the question. Does adding fuel to an NA add hp?

scathcart

Usually no. VERY rarely, yes.

RETed

13.07 @ 109, I believe this was the numbers quoted on that thread.
It was also mentioned some kinda aftermarket trans (with stock GTUs gearing) and a 4.30 rear end.
He also mentions going through the traps at the top of 3rd gear at around 7,200 to 7,400RPM.
If I do that numbers right, this is NOT POSSIBLE.
I can see about 100 or maybe 105mph through the traps, but the gearings just doesn't compute?
Can someone else run these numbers?

Holy crap dude, some of the stuff he spews in the thread is just bullshit!
B10EV's you need to thread with your fingers or with a needlenose pliers???
4mm carbon apex seals???
AW COME ON!
drago86 was the only one that started to question the thread toward the end, but I think GTUsPA just disappeared after selling the vehicle...
Too bad.

1.6 to 1.8 60' times?
Launching at around 4,200RPM???
Total bullshit.
You can't do this with drag radials.
You can't do this with slicks.
No street port is going to make that much power to get out of the hole that quick to punch out that kinda 60' times at that low an RPM.
Ask any of the experienced NA drag racers on here...
If he said a 7kRPM launch, it would've been believable.

JET is also one of those ECU tuners that don't do very good jobs with RX-7 ECU's.
Do your research on this.
MANY of these chip tuners will claim they cannot change the fuel "maps" on an FC.
Maybe you can figure out why this is so...

The numbers are possible if the car and driver get under 2000#.
GTUsPA mentions he was trying to run in an all-motor class, which would've penalized the chassis with a lot of weight (easily over 2000#).
So if the car was that light, it would've been DSQ'd due to being too damn light...if this was the case.

Come on, the TeamFC3S.ORG members might be suckers for this kinda bullshit, but it doesn't work with us...



-Ted

NZConvertible

I'm with you Ted, I read the whole thread and got the distinct impression this guy knew a lot less than he was making out. I can't believe nobody was questioning some of his "facts", and just lapped it all up while begging for more.

I noticed the trap speed thing too, and it just did not work out. I got only ~90mph at 7400rpm in 3rd with a 4.3:1 diff and 225/45x16 tires, which is quite a bit off 109mph.

Same with the whole fuel story. If you had enough airflow to burn most of the fuel from a 720/1600 injector combo running at 60% duty cycle you'd be making well over 400hp, probably cloer to 450! This is simple physics and cannot be disputed, and should be pretty obvious to anyone with an above-average knowledge of EFI modification. Now even a huge streetport is going to struggle to get past 250hp, so either he's making it up or he simply doesn't know what he's talking about.

Suddenly it's hard to believe anything else he says...

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

i read half of that thread, that was enouf for me, i looked at the gearign also and the rpm it doesnt make sence. unless he has super large tires

as to answer your quastion bigdv519, if the car is leanign you to a point that its loosing HP then YES adding fuel will gain some power and safety as well. once again stock NA fuel system can go beyond what you can bolt on the car without leaning it out. that means no forced induction or nitruous.

Adam

Ok Maybe you can tell me what Direction to turn the MAF screw on the right side to make the injectors lean out the motor alittle? that would be cool to lean her out. I have no power and bad gas milage.

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

if you have no power and bad gas milage, there is most likely some other problem with the car.

NZConvertible

Stop trying to think of cheap half-assed ways to fix the problem. Your motor has no power and bad mileage because something is wrong. Find out what and fix it. Don't use dodgy band-aid methods (that wouldn't do much anyway) to mask the symptoms.

Sorry if that sounds harsh, but if you fix and mod your car properly you'll be happier in the end.

Adam

Amazing what you can do by tweeking. maybe my afm is off. Just asked a simple question. but Since you dont know then fine. ill just start turning screws

scathcart

In your education, what part did you fail to learn: reading, or comprehension?

Adam

Well Why Don't you add somthing Usefull, Because Your not Helping me at all! ****** canadians eh,

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Ok, good point with the tires and gearing. I did wonder since my NA Vert was around 7600 rpms in 3rd at the quarter, and I believe my trap speed was 82 mph. Thats with the 4.1 rearend.


Hey Kahren, you hit the bullseye. My car has very low hp and max hp was at about 5500 rpms. Then it just started falling like a torque curve normally would at high rpms. So these guys at Carboy DID do a safe tune???

scathcart

Start a new thread describing something a little more in depth than, "I have no power and bad gas milage". Do you honestly expect anyone to diagnose your problem with that description?

As for your crack about my citizenship, I might be insulted if I thought you had an education: you can't spell, punctuate, or comprehend what is written to you. Then again, it might not be a lack of education that's your problem...

Adam

Well i Type the way I type! And I think your Just bored So you feel like you Need to start ****, If you really care that much then become a ******* teacher, I didnt ask Anyone to Solve OR figure out what is wrong with my car. The MAF Controls how much fuel it Injected to a point! and all i asked is What direction to turn the screw to Lean out the Injectors.( IF possible) Now if you dont have an Answer Fine..Just shut the hell up

scathcart

I could give you the inforamtion you want... only problem is that you obviously have no clue as to how to use the information to achieve your results: you obviously don't even know how the AFM works. Let alone that, its obvious you have no idea how to optimally tune your car, or the tools required to do so, so any information I give would be completely useless to you.

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

adam, if your is running worse then stock, that means something is broken, now if you give us more information on what is really going, instead of getting into arguments with people that can actually help you.

Adam

No im not saying i know everything. Now since we are clear. the mass airflow sensor sends info to ECU. Correct?. If Mass air flow sensor is not tuned correctly it could be reading more air than it is really seeing Correct? ECU sends how much fuel to mix with the Air? Correct? hey i could be wrong. since i dont know **** about my car. btw My car Runs smooth, No missing. Perfect idle. Just gets 13mpg city maybe 16mph highway. i would say it could be the tps. however it seems to run fine.

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Thats pretty good. I get about 11 mpg city and 14 highway.

NZConvertible

Actually I do know, but messing with that screw will not fix your problem.

The AFM is tuned correctly. The screw is just an air bypass the factory uses to calibrate the AFM. Leave it alone and find the real cause.

Then it's not an AFM problem.

Please do as suggested and start a new thread describing your problem. And please include a lot more info than you did this time around, or you'll just get the same responses. Try not to insult people either, it discourages them from helping.

HAILERS

You might try another afm to fix your problem. Or have its calibration checked out.


The parts that will really effect your afm's output signals to the ECU are inside the afm. You have to remove the black cover first. It's held in place with some clear RTV around its edges. Use a razor blade to cut the RTV then remove the cover. Inside you'll see the carbon track and the wiper that passes over the carbon track. You'll also see the gear teeth, tension spring and pawl looking device. By adding tension or relieving tension on the spring, you can/will dramatically effect the fuel mixtures.

Unfoutunatly you have to know what your doing when messing around in this area and can screw the pooch in a heartbeat. So the advice is to not mess around in this area and if you do mark everything prior to loosening anything so you can return everything to its prior setting. It's best to have a wideband to see what the results are when messing around in this area.

Actually I know very little about this area except the part about being able to screw the pooch in a heartbeat when messing around with it. That puppy now sits on its behind on a parts rack in the back shed.

I did learn how to buy afms off EBAY though. humor

RETed

Adjusting the AFM tension spring is something that the Toyota boys used to do a lot cause it was in the damn TRD manual!
Now, you can easily screw this up, and a quick slip of the wrench can easily damage the $1,000+ part (brand new from the Mazda dealer)!
Messing around with delicate electronics is not something I would recommend to just anybody.

I realize that temptation of doing a "free" mod is very high.
Without molesting the AFM, an FC that's is in top-running shape should run very well without touching the AFM.
If you're looking at grossly rich or lean problems, try to look elsewhere and blame the AFM *last*.
As HAILERS mentioned, swapping out a good, used AFM is about the only troubleshooting you should be doing with these things.
THEY ARE SEALED FOR A REASON - THEY ARE NOT MEANT TO BE TAMPERED WITH.

If you insist on tweaking the AFM signal, an A'PEXi S-AFC does air / fuel adjustment safety and electronically remotly inside the car.
Save the couple hundred dollars for a good, used S-AFC, and your AFM will thank you!


-Ted