Hey guys,

I just finished getting my 89 TII throttle body put back together. I gave it a good cleaning in all the orifices and passageways and replaced all the crappy philips screws with cap-head screws. I also cleaned the thermowax and cold-idle devices. The BAC has been cleaned as well as the AWS. The goal of this effort is to get the thing back to stock and get it to run nicely. I drive it enough that I want the creature comforts back in it and don't want to have to fiddle with the thing anymore.

I put it back on the engine and went about trying to get it dialed in on idle and such. The thing is, it seems the more I fool with it, the worse I make it. It idles bad and lacks power. This is no doubt operator error. I have tried jumpered and un-jumpered adjustments to see if it makes a difference, but at this point I believe I am lost in the woods.

I have consulted the FSM posted on Rotaryheads.com for the inspection and adjustment of the individual items, but it is hard to find a procedure for starting over from scratch.

Threads I have researched include:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...e-body-691389/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...js=1#community
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-101-a-235007/

If you fellows could help me get this thing tuned, that would be fantastic. I need to adjust idle screw, cold idle screw, tps, etc... Jumpered vs. Unjumpered states of adjustment, and what I am practically looking for in those states please. Vacuum leaks have been checked and eliminated. The system consistently holds steady pressure.

Stock ECU
Stock Solenoids and vacuum fitments
Stock injectors
EGR Delete
Air pump and cat delete

Matt

 

There isn't an EGR on an S5. And what is a bad idle, specifically?

 

I'm sorry I mis-spoke. What I meant was that the air control valve that hooks up to the air pump has been removed. Its the one that bolts to the lower intake manifold right above the turbo. It got destroyed in a wreck a few years ago. I am trying to get this thing back to the way it was with all the features again.

The problems I have at idle are random-and-errant stuttering as well as a random hanging idle. Its difficult to check the timing on it because the mark keeps bouncing around rather than holding steady. I thought the hanging idle would be temperature dependent, and a result of the cold idle mechanisms acting up, part of the reason I cleaned the thing. Under load, the system is able to pressurize and hold boost and good measurable vacuum of around 14psi vac, but I don't think it's delivering the proper amount of fuel under WOT because the car is ridiculously slow. It wont break traction and has a long time getting up to road speed.

 

Can you make a video of it acting up? I think that would help out a lot in conjuring up a direction to point you in.

 

Have you tried pulling codes?

done this?




https://drive.google.com/folderview?...hl=en_US&pli=1

 

Thanks for the patience guys. I got a chance to work on the car this weekend. I went through the FSM from the beginning and did all the stuff it said to do to set the TB. I gapped the throttle plates and set them within spec according to the FSM. Figured out that if you double over a length of electrical tape, the gap for the end of it is about .45mm which is what the FSM calls for. The cold idle functioned properly and separated from the throttle once the engine warmed up.

I also checked the BAC, AWS, and ASV solenoid valves. They all functioned as intended and had resistances that were acceptable according to the FSM. In addition, while I had the car running, I checked the voltage sources to the solenoids and they were providing full power to the solenoids as needed.

I managed to get the car back to running. The adjustments had put the tps and bac idle adjust out of whack. Once the engine was warmed up, I adjusted the TPS according to the FSM method, and then tried to adjust the hot idle (on top of throttle body) in an un-jumpered configuration. I also tried to adjust the bac idle in a jumpered configuration, per FSM.

Once I had a set that looked viable, I shut off the car and restarted it to see if the settings helped. The settings once restarted did not run smoothly. Having eliminated the solenoids or the thermowax idle mechanism as a problem, my main idea is that it is now a combination of setting the hot idle on top of the tb, the bac idle, and finding a happy place for the tps.
It still runs like crap. I will post a video as soon as I can. Right after doing this, my oil cooler lines barfed all the oil on my garage floor.

Thank you for your patience. Hope to have more for you guys soon. Appreciate the help.

 

Sorry for the gap in posts. I have been really busy. I just got the thing working properly. I appreciate all the suggestions, you guys were a big help.

What happened was my tps sensor was slowly dying, and it was just hamming it up as it went. When I had initially checked it going through the throttle body FSM style, it tested fine, resistance, continuity, range and all. However it finally kicked the bucket and threw a code. I just put in a new one from mazdatrix. This sensor was a used one I had bought to replace the last one, so I figured a new one would give me some peace of mine. Runs smoother than I have ever had it.

Thank you folks

 

Glad you got it going.