Thermo pellet and oil pressure Questions
12-06-11, 01:50 AM
#1
They live We sleep
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Dot Island
Posts: 919
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thermo pellet and oil pressure Questions
i got the thermo pellet from atkins and put it in. I also saw somewhere here in the rx7 forum that 20-50 oil is better for winter. but my oil pressure seems low. is this something i should worry about? its like 25 lbs ish when at an idle. It just seems low. does the pellet have anything to do with this?
Last edited by rx7_FREAKKK; 12-06-11 at 01:52 AM.
12-06-11, 02:20 AM
#2
20w50 is way to thick for winter.
10w30 is more suitable and is recommended by the service manual for the temperature you will be getting in Washington State.
Around 30 psi at idle is normal and up to spec. At 3000 rpm the pressure should be 60-70psi with the factory oil pressure regulator. Are you using the stock gauge to check? I find them to be ridiculously inaccurate at times. Try to get an oil pressure tester to test the oil pressure instead.
is it the solid thermo pellet or the OEM thermo pellet? Normally, when the OEM pellet fails, the oil pressure acually lowers because the pellet fails in the open position which allows oil to flow back into the oil pan. When you put a solid pellet, it NEVER allows the oil to flow into the oil pan. The OEM pellet allows oil to flow into the oil pan because it speeds up the warm up time. Once the oil warms up to 140F, it shuts off the oil bypass and when it does, the oil squirters in the eccentric shaft squirts oil inside the rotors to cool them. From what I know, when the OEM pellet fails, the squirters only cool the front rotor and not the rear.
10w30 is more suitable and is recommended by the service manual for the temperature you will be getting in Washington State.
Around 30 psi at idle is normal and up to spec. At 3000 rpm the pressure should be 60-70psi with the factory oil pressure regulator. Are you using the stock gauge to check? I find them to be ridiculously inaccurate at times. Try to get an oil pressure tester to test the oil pressure instead.
is it the solid thermo pellet or the OEM thermo pellet? Normally, when the OEM pellet fails, the oil pressure acually lowers because the pellet fails in the open position which allows oil to flow back into the oil pan. When you put a solid pellet, it NEVER allows the oil to flow into the oil pan. The OEM pellet allows oil to flow into the oil pan because it speeds up the warm up time. Once the oil warms up to 140F, it shuts off the oil bypass and when it does, the oil squirters in the eccentric shaft squirts oil inside the rotors to cool them. From what I know, when the OEM pellet fails, the squirters only cool the front rotor and not the rear.
12-06-11, 03:01 AM
#3
They live We sleep
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Dot Island
Posts: 919
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
20w50 is way to thick for winter.
10w30 is more suitable and is recommended by the service manual for the temperature you will be getting in Washington State.
Around 30 psi at idle is normal and up to spec. At 3000 rpm the pressure should be 60-70psi with the factory oil pressure regulator. Are you using the stock gauge to check? I find them to be ridiculously inaccurate at times. Try to get an oil pressure tester to test the oil pressure instead.
is it the solid thermo pellet or the OEM thermo pellet? Normally, when the OEM pellet fails, the oil pressure acually lowers because the pellet fails in the open position which allows oil to flow back into the oil pan. When you put a solid pellet, it NEVER allows the oil to flow into the oil pan. The OEM pellet allows oil to flow into the oil pan because it speeds up the warm up time. Once the oil warms up to 140F, it shuts off the oil bypass and when it does, the oil squirters in the eccentric shaft squirts oil inside the rotors to cool them. From what I know, when the OEM pellet fails, the squirters only cool the front rotor and not the rear.
10w30 is more suitable and is recommended by the service manual for the temperature you will be getting in Washington State.
Around 30 psi at idle is normal and up to spec. At 3000 rpm the pressure should be 60-70psi with the factory oil pressure regulator. Are you using the stock gauge to check? I find them to be ridiculously inaccurate at times. Try to get an oil pressure tester to test the oil pressure instead.
is it the solid thermo pellet or the OEM thermo pellet? Normally, when the OEM pellet fails, the oil pressure acually lowers because the pellet fails in the open position which allows oil to flow back into the oil pan. When you put a solid pellet, it NEVER allows the oil to flow into the oil pan. The OEM pellet allows oil to flow into the oil pan because it speeds up the warm up time. Once the oil warms up to 140F, it shuts off the oil bypass and when it does, the oil squirters in the eccentric shaft squirts oil inside the rotors to cool them. From what I know, when the OEM pellet fails, the squirters only cool the front rotor and not the rear.
Oh ok. thanks sir. I will change it out i guess, Do you think the thermo pellet is ok? Or should i stay with the oem?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
stickmantijuana
20B Forum
8
08-18-15 02:46 PM
