for that engine you knew a block off plate kit to remove all the emissions and the banjo bolt i got at autozone they had to order it but its a 12mm X 1.25 cost 8.99. good idea to remove the fuel pulse damper. no fires then. heres a good web site to check out

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...s_removal.html

 

Well i actually want to leave the emmissions as i have to pass them each year. Take them off mean no get inspected, mean no drice car, means me sad.

lol

 

Well here goes another update.

So i went out and tracked down the cause of the power loss i have been feeling.

It turns out i was right about the CAS being turned due to not being screwed down. It was retarded about 1/4 of that adjustment groove.

Turned it back right and power was back! Who would have thought that little bit of retard would have such an effect on power.

But while i was out there i decided to run a compression test and that turned out good as well.

Got 3 puffs of ~60psi on the rear rotor.

and 3 puffs of ~65psi on the front rotor with the check valve off.

I then put the check valve back on and got ~90psi on the rear and ~95psi on the front. But i it was pointed out to me that since i am both running heavy pre-mix and OMP right now, the extra oil in the rotors will cause a little loss of compression (this is backed up by VERY dirty spark plugs that were brand new a few days before) those numbers should come up a little when i stop running premix.

That puts me over the magic 100psi mark and makes me happy! Will test again when it cools down outside to see what happens.


And for now that is it, the car is sitting in my driveway with a donut tire on it so i can't drive it. And i am waiting for the tempretur to drop some before i start the 5 lug swap with my parts car.

So until the temp drops some, hopfully soon, the car will pretty much sit.

Will update when i get some more work done on it.

 

Ok, update time, been awhile.

I will start off by posting links and a description of other threads that I have started in regard to this car.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/where-guide-fuel-cut-switch-771075/

Info I used to make my fuel cut switch. I now have a hidden, easy to access fuel cut switch installed and working great. Best of all none of my friends has been able to find it yet.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/doing-5-lug-conversion-need-new-struts-773244/

Thread explaining how I went about getting my shocks and springs, I ended up with tokio blues shocks and tein springs.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-oh-how-do-you-get-2000rpm-idle-down-750rpm-779410/

Thread that got my idle down to where it should be. Ended up being one of the stop screws was out a little too far and holding the TB open just a little.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/got-my-rx7-driveable-now-some-new-problems-ac-eletrical-idle-power-loss-781431/

Here I figure out why when I used the AC my car would not idle, ended up being the BAC valve was not hooked up.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/yet-another-passing-emmissions-thread-just-barely-failed-779601/

My passing emissions thread, got it to pass fine with some alcohol in the tank and retarding the timing some.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/power-loss-getting-worse-day-782198/

Figured out that my power loss was just my CAS spinning since it is not screwed down, it retarded the timing and lost all power.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-world-do-you-drop-sub-frame-do-5-lug-conversion-787409/

Discusses my sub-frame swapping problems.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/changing-my-shocks-everything-going-great-until-i-try-tighten-%25%5E-%24%25%5E-%24%25%5E-nut-790437/

Ended up stripping one of my shocks and had to get a new one.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/bushings-what-kind-how-much-how-many-how-hard-783498/

What bushings I got and why.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/clutch-issues-after-removing-reinstalling-driveshaft-5-lug-conversion-791421/

Latest one, having clutch problems now.

 

Ok, now time to update what is new and where the car is now.

So after seeing the above since last I updated this thread. I figured out that my compression is actually good, over 100 psi on each rotor, was testing it wrong the first time which is why I go the low numbers. You need to test it with the bottom holes and don’t run full pre-mix and OMP at the same time.

I also got my shocks and springs in, though while installing them the other day I managed to strip one of the rear shocks and had to order another one. Should be in next week.

So now to the big things, last week I started pulling the sub-frame off my parts car to swap with my car. At first I could not get it to drop but it ended up being that I missed a few bolts. I finally got it off after some work and then went to work with the bushings.

Though when I was reading and searching and even posted a thread asking about them no one mentioned that they come out through the top and not the bottom. And that there is a metal shell around the rubber. So I ended up wasting a full day trying to get them out, drilling, burning, banging, you name it. I thought I got one out after all that.






After talking to the guys I got the bushings from I found that the metal shell was still in the hole. So I turned the frame over and sure enough there it was. Banged them all out in a few minutes and put the new ones in seconds. All that time wasted!



So I then got to working on the other bushings. I ended up only installing the swaybar bushings as the other seem in good condition and I don’t have a press to do the others.



So after that was done I got to taking the sub-frame off my car. Here are some before pictures:








Taking the subframe off was actually the easy part, taking the stupid exhaust off took me as long as the whole sub-frame. The PO had it all welded so I had to remove the WHOLE thing, those mounts are not easy to get to or remove.

After I finally got it off though I was able to drop the sub-frame in 45 mins or so. Rolled it out and then rolled the other one in.

Spent about 45mins getting everything all lined up and ready to bolt up. Then bolted everything down.

Checked it all over, got the brakes hooked up and bled, hooked up the emergency brake. Then I started it up without any exhaust at 9:00 pm. Loud as heck but in a pleasing kind of way. I drove it around the block and nothing fell off or broke so I was happy!

Then I started to pull into my driveway and all of the sudden my clutch peddle sticks to the floor but is engaged. Had to kill the car to get it to stop. I then check the fluid level and bled the clutch. Seemed to work ok, but when I went to pull it in again it stuck to the floor again.

The 5 lug swap though WAS a success, I drove it again today and the rear end is MUCH tighter then before with the new bushings and no more clunking when I let the clutch out.

I am VERY happy I decided to swap the sub-frames vs doing all the parts by themselves. MUCH easier. The diff also works fine, just have not been able to test the LSD part of it yet.

And that’s pretty much where I am at now, no exhaust installed (not looking forward to reinstalling it) and the clutch acting up, I am going to swap the master cylinder from the parts car and see if that fixes it.

Also found a radiator for $30 that I should get next week. That should make my car fully drivable! Then I just need to finish the front 5 pug swap when I can.

Some more pictures, it looks SOOOO much better with the GXL wheels:

 

 

hell of a good read, actually answered some little problems ive been having on my 88gxl. which has gone from a daily driver to a mini project as tranny works is being settled

 

Good to know, i know i wish i had a thread to read with little problems like these listed out. Thats why i always try to blog my cars so others don't make the same mistakes.

 

the only problem i havnt seen in any topic ive looked thru

when i decelerate and rpms hit about 2300, car gets jumpy, dunno if thats trannyworks or what but i guess ill find out when my tranny is all done

 

Now sure, i would do a full tune up and see what happens.

 

That could be the ECU...under decel conditions, when the RPMs fall below a certain level (I think it's 2100) one rotor's injectors get cut off...you can typically hear the engine note go "flat" when this happens.
Not sure about the "jumpy" part...usually when I hear this happen I'm about to go into neutral and am coasting to a light or something.

 

how hard was it to remove the rear subframe and stuff??

 

Quite easy actually once i knew where and how to do everything.

The first one took the better part of an afternoon to drop with me taking my time and spending over an hour not seeing one stupid bolt.

The second one dropped in about 45 mins, there are 7 bolts holding the sub-frame on and then the bolts holding the shocks. Piece of cake really.


Now for an update:

Today i finally got the exahust back on (missing 1 mount but it is on there). It still leaks some at the main fitting on the manifold but at some point i will get a full exahust so i am not too worried. Quiter then before.

Now that i can hear i took it for another drive and i have good news and bad news.

The good is that nothing feel off or broke, The new shocks are MUCH better, ride is much improved and overall the car is tighter.

The bad is that there is a clunk from something in the rear, kinda like before but differnt now. and a whine from the diff.

The whine i think is from a worn out LSD, it looks like i might need ot drop that again and pull it apart.

The clunk though i don't have a clue. If i have the car in say second gear going real slow where the car will buck you can clearly hear a clunking sound from the rear. same thing if i let the clutch in and out and make the car "buck".

I thought it might be the diff but if the car is sitting still and i let the clutch out with the brake on, no clunk. It is possible it is the exahust hitting something but i think it is something more.

I checked allt he sub-frame mounts and they are all on and tight. Bushings are all either new or good. So any ideas?

 

Link to thread this is discussed further in:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...63#post8624863

I ended up looking at all the mounts and bushing and found them all to be on there perfect.

So i was pulling the car out of my driveway to pull the sub-frame again when all of the sudden while shifting i realized that the tranny mounts could be bad (someone in that thread had suggested it but i thought i had checked it before). So i looked at the tranny mounts again and realized that sure enough they were bad.

Saved me pulling the whole sub-frame again. So now i am going to replace those and hopfully it will be driveable!

In other news; the LSD while bad for sure seems to be holding up to my driving so far, i got some new thicker fluid for it today. I will change that out tomorrow and see if that helps the whine any. if so then i will just drive it as is until i can afford a NEW LSD then just replace it rather then switch tot my old open diff then later switch again to an LSD.

I also got a new radiator today, which was the last thing the engine needed to be driveable. Got that swapped out and ran the first half of a flush tonight, will finish it up tomorrow.

Also re-enabled my thermowax unit now that i have the idle problems figured out, i had to "shorten" the cam but it now works and idles fine cold now.

Next on the list is to finish my 5 lug swap in the front and put the new struts up there as well. then get the car allinged (it is way off). Then it should be drivable!

 

Ok, another update.

So since last post I have finished the 5 lug saw and had a few problems, fixed a few and found a few more.

First I got everything running fine with just the rear 5 lug swap done, drove it for a few days and changed the fluid in the diff. The diff is bad for sure, when I drained the old fluid there was metal in it but it is holding up for now other then the whining. So I will drive it until it pops, then get a replacement.

So I then started working on finishing the front 5 lug swap. I looked at the front hubs are decided it would be far easier to just unbolt the whole hub/strut/brake assembly at once and transfer it. especially since I was going to be switching out the struts and springs at the same time.

I am glad I did too, it was MUCH easier then doing all the parts by themselves. You just have to remove the 2 bolts holding the hub to the control arm, tap out the tie rod, undo the brake line at the hardline to the car, and then take the strut nuts off. Just drops right out. I then swapped the struts and springs but really I could have finished the swap in 30 mins had it just wanted to swap the parts.

I also swapped the brake booster, I just took the whole master cylinder and booster together, just disconnected the 3 brake lines and then unbolted it and with a little wiggling it came right out

Got everything installed and then went to bleed the brakes, and ran out of fluid after 2 wheels. So I decided I would just pull it into the driveway for the night and finish tomorrow. But then the car would not start up at all. Earlier I had pulled it down and shut it off before it warmed up, and as we all know this usually mean it will flood next time it is started. I figured no big deal, I would just hit my fuel cut switch. So I tried and tried and nothing worked, no amount of deflooding or anything.

Next day I pulled the plugs and put some oil in there to help it start, after another hour I tried spaying some brake cleaner into the intake and it started right up. So I started looking at the fuel pump and come to find out a lose wire on the fuel pump relay was the problem the whole time! Fixed that and it started right up!

So I then got some more brake fluid and went to finish bleeding the brakes, got to the last wheel and was just about finished when I hear the brake resoviaor run dry and suck air in! so I had to go get MORE fluid and start all over again the next day! In a way I am glad though, the old fluid was NASTY. By the time I was finished it was clear on all the brakes.

I then got my atmospheric pressure sensor hooked up (found the connector hiding behind some other wires) and put the rest of the inside back together. All the inside is missing now is the trim that goes where the idiot lights are. Otherwise the interior is complete and pretty darn clean, almost like new.

It then got a bath and some of it’s first real diving. I have to say that it is night and day between the pre-5 lug swap and post-5 lug swap. Braking is much better, handling is MUCH better (though this is mostly due to the shocks/springs), ride is much better, overall MUCH better!

Not even any rattles!

So at this point I decided that cleaneing out the engine might be a good idea since I just put some oil in there for no reason. So I did the water treatment, it seemed to help some. I also had a can of seafoam so I decided I would run that as well. It also seemed to help.. Ran good, took it for a test drive and other then some 3800rpm lag it ran perfect! Though I was pretty sure the plugs were fouled and causing a little lack of power.

So today I went out to replace the plugs, replaced them and started it up, runs great. Let it warm up while I do some other stuff. Then I go to drive around the block and for some reason it all of the sudden won’t rev at WOT past 5000rpm. And overall is just acting strange. Like either too much or too little fuel, though I am pretty sure it is too little.

This is an S4 so it is not limp mode, it was working perfect yesterday. I am lost as to what this could be.

AND some pictures for those that have an attention span of less then 10 seconds:

 

Glad you're making some progress! Wished I was!! The 86 without the drivetrain, is that the one that's behind your car in the picture? Where in Texas are you, I might be interested in it depending on how much you want and how well my wife's engine swap goes in her Mustang.

 

Yes, the black RX7 is the 86. Pretty good condition overall, just a little body damage here and there but not hard to fix. I am in DFW.

Otherwise all it needs is a drivtrain, i was going to drop a V8 in it but then i got the MR2 you can see in the far background. it now is going to get all my $$$.

The 86 is actually not for sale quite yet, i want to drive my car for a few weeks before i sale it to make sure there is nothing i need off of it but after that i am going to get rid of it, i need the space. I am starting to fill up my street with cars, the old lady across the street is not happy!

And i didn't help anything by running the RX7 without an exahust a little while back, that thing is LOUD! and it would back fire and sound like a gun shot!

 

Well i got the power loss problem figured out. Turned out to be a cuple of small things.

My leading rear plug wire was not on quite right.

My TPS was a tad out of adjustment

My timing was a tad retarded

And my gas tank was low (not empty, just low)

Fixed all of the above and it is back to normal! runs better now as well!

Now i just have some small things to figure out, power steering being the main thing. Also the wiper relay.

 

Ok, so another update.

Today i got my power steering fixed finally! It is a night and day differnce! Ended up being a combo of eletrical and mechanical.

I fixed some lose pin on the ECU and replaced the reack with the parts car rack and now it works!

BUT now i have some other news.

After getting the rack installed when i started it up it was spitting water from the exahust? Like enough to make a puddle. I did have to move the radiator, maybe it just forced some water into the rotors.

After it heated up it seemed to slow down to just a slight mist. but it could have just been the normal slight smoke, it was dark and hard to tell.

I am going to check it again tomorrow and see what is up with it. I know if this engine lets go the car is getting an LSx V8.

In other news i got my supercharger installed in my 4runner last week and have started tuning it. DANG THE POWER! my 5500lb truck is now just as fast if not faster then my 3000lb rx7. handling sucks compared but in a stright line run it would be far to close to call. My truck also has 4wd, which allwos it to hook up.

 

Well the car is sold, i spent months of time well over $2500 on parts and a lot of blood sweat and tears getting it running perfect.

Then an MR2 came to me and demanded i make a choice, it or the RX7. Well the RX7 is a great car, i really love it and trust me, I WILL own another one but the MR2 is going to be taking my money for the forseable future.

I already miss this car soo bad! Mark my words! i will own another one, most likley with a V8 swap (yes i know, but i will be saving a shell from the junk yard). In fact i almost bought one today but it was in much worse condition then this one was and i know how much work this one took.

On the up side i sold it to a nice guy that promissed he would take care of it and even finish restoring it, can't want to see it with a fresh coat of paint!

Well, Karniv04+ it is now yours, enjoy it!

 

Was it at least an sw20 mr2?

john ny

 

Yep, it is a 93 MR2 Turbo i got for $1500 with a blown engine. Picking up a 3rd gen JDM swap from ATS next week. should have ~250hp off the bat and can get 300hp with a few bolt ons.

Then i am going to decide how much i like it and if i like it 400hp here we come.

Picture:

 

Always been a huge fan of that body style, 3sgte has hella potential. Good luck with the build.


Its funny.....the new owner of your old fc just started a thread today where yours left off. Never seen that before.


John NY

 

As have I, wich is one reason i jumped on this car when it poped up.

Depending on how much i like it i will either keep it and mod it or i will sell it to buy another RX7. If i am luky a 3rd gen but most likely a 2nd gen shell and then V8 swap it.

If i am super lucky i can do both....