[QUOTE]Originally posted by NZConvertible
[B]That duct is an oval, not a rectangle. You can't just multiply the width and height, you have to account for the rounded ends. [QUOTE]

Well the corners are rounded a bit but the water seperator box in front (forward) of the radiator (under the hood duct seal when closed) is not an oval.

The Fresh air duct is oval on the Air cleaner end, but rectangular on the forward end. ( FSM F2-34)

I assume that box with baffel is to keep sheep out of the air intake.

 

Your still missing the point that the AFM can't flow more than the pipe I am using anyways so it would be pointless to add a 5" intake tube since the air flow meter can't take that much air in.
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I did two 60-80 runs at WOT today which was kind of hot around 90 when I did it. The intake temps were 96 when I went WOT and were 92 when I let off. I don't think this is going to be a good indicator of changing air temps since the whole run only takes a few seconds. But 4* F in around ~5 seconds(that is what it seemed like not actuall time) is damn good IMO. I am still in need of typing out the info that I recorded yesterday so please stay tuned to the site and the thread.

Thanks for all of your support, ideas, and comments.

Santiago

 

I think we are talking about quanity of air (AFM; friction loss, length of pipe, bends,...) and tempature.

I would like to see temps with stock box setup, cone filter no "cold air box", and cone with "cold air box" and your neat setup.

 

Have you not noticed the three or four times I have said I will be doing this throughout this week and the next. Un-fortunately I have a trip to monterrey mexico this friday so I will not have enough time to do ALL of the setups.

 

Temp Summary
Ambient temp was 75* F Turning on the car and warming it up the intake temperature was 79* F. Driving roughly 9-10 miles at 80mph intake temps when to the range of 84-86*F. Stopped at a light the intake heat soaked to 94* idling for about 4 or 5 minutes. After picking up my “Girl” the intake had heat soaked to 96* F after idling for another 5 minutes. Stopping to buy fuel after fueling up the temp gauge read 109* F after being shut off for around 10 minutes (line at the register and pumped a full tank and added the correct amount of pre-mix). Idling at the light (fill station was on a corner and we got a RED light) temps lowered to a range of 100-102* F after around 2-3 minutes. Traveling through thick traffic nearly grid lock at around 10 miles per hour we saw intake dip to 96 but they fluctuated depending on how fast we moved around 96-99* F. Punching it after getting free of the traffic we saw temps lower to 92* after about 5 minutes of driving at ~55mph. Seeing some freed up road I hit it and took her up to ~60-80 and the temp swooped to a whopping 83* F, Once we arrived at TAMIU (Texas A & M University) I let it cool down(engine temp) The intake temps rose to 87 within about 3 minutes.


This is the info of my daily drive to school. The afternoon will be comming soon.
Tonight I am going to switch to the old cold air box setup I had and do that same write-up.

Santiago

 

i'm just curious with all of those bends.. would it not make more sense to keep the air filter closer to the engine its self.. so have what you have but instead of the filter where u have it have a open end of the pipe leading directly to the filter and have some kinda cup so ur still force'n the air.. dude ur product is great but i'm just thinking the less bends and the closer the filter better throtle response.. again i ain't dissing your product.. good luck with marketing them

 

My throttle response is actually improved sine I swapped from my heat shield cone intake setup. The bends are all mandrell and will be less TIGHT in the final product if our upcomming deal with a very nice company comes through.

Also I don't think 50 or 80 mph wind needs to be FORCED into the filter.

 

Ok guys I bought some vynil tubing for that manometer and will make it next week since tommorow I leave for mexico.

I just wanted to set up a question for now.
Since it would be highly in-accurate to use a stop watch to time my 60-80 and 50-90 times I was thinking about adding a G-tech computer thing that is suppossed to time your 0-60 time and 1/4 mile time. While I know that you have to have accurate measurements like the TOTAL weight of the car and such for it to be 100% accurate. Would this be a good way to test the different types of intakes against each other? I mean even if it is off or something it would be OFF the same amount on all the readings right?

I was looking in the latest summit racing catalog I got and it is only 99.99 for the base one and around 250 for the one with a large LCD display and graphs.

What do you all think?

Santiago

PS I also have a small update but nothing too detailed about today.

 

Fark! this thing got lost FAST. anyways I am intalling the STOCK intake tonight to test that BIOTCH See what we get here.

Santiago

You all go check out the website and send us some e-mails on anything you would like to know or see done in the present or near future.

 

god damn stupidity. NOTHING TO SEE HERE lol


read down there :-D

 

 

Umm I lost the link to that manometer! NZ if you read this post it up again will ya. I forgot the measurements. lol

 

Not necessarily. If you take the average of multiple runs you remove most of the human error. Make sure you do an equal number of runs in opposite directions too, to cancel any effects from wind and gradient. G-tech's are great for this sort of testing, but they're considerably more expensive than a stopwatch.

It's in this thread!

Click here if you're vision-challenged.

 

When will you be able to start testing for TIIs? I know you dont have access to one right now but was just wondering.

 

If I had a working TII I would have data in roughly 7-14 days. Depending on my university work load.

I really want to do the TII one since it is more HP
But for now I am unable to do anything about testing that and not much more than look at the dead TII and cry lol.

Thanks NZ I guess I will get MAX and a stop watch to do some runs on the stock intake today and the CAI and CONE later.

 

I'd really like to know what the difference is between the stock intake and yours. Frankly, i find the stock intake adequate because it's ducted to a cold air source, the filter is a good size, and it connects right to the AFM. Once the top half of the air box is smoothed up, it should be a much better flowing unit. the TID is very restrictive... however.

Someone needs to come out with an AFFORDABLE TID

 

Well actually I lied before it was not a 100% stock air box. I had modified mine by cutting hole in the tube that come into it from the snorkel to make if flow better.

Anyhow our planed TII intake would probably be from the filter to the turbo with the AFM in the middle. probably for the same price too.

Santiago

 

seems like a really cool product.

now get rid of that ******* gator spam pop up **** on your web site.

 

Umm I don't have a domain name bought yet so that pop up will have to stay lol.
Anyhow I just got back and the damn intake was heatsoaked to 143 when I turned on the car and stayed at 120-125 all the way back here. I really want my CAI back now. lol

 

Smoothed up? I can't see what you could do to the airbox to improve flow other than cut the top open, and then you're sucking hot air. Plus you still have the very poorly shaped airbox outlet and AFM inlet.

 

NZ what should I test the manometer at? MPH? neutral? from a dig? from a roll?

 

the temp stats are great but what we all wanna know is how much HP/dollar gain do we get from this intake setup?

 

The temp decrease sounds great, however this worries me:

If you are serious about bringing a product to the market, then you should be investing the money to properly test it.

 

Hasn't this been stated before?

You cant accurately prove the HP claims, as you can't quite re-create the air that is traveling into the intake at higher speeds... Im sure you could stick a high CFM fan infront of the bumper, but even then it would be 'short changed'

I would think the air temps would be enough "proof" ****, Im buying one

 

Aaron tell me how a dyno shop is going to replicate 50-120MPH wind hitting the intake? It is worthless to do since it won't DUPLICATE actual driving. Plus where are the dyno sheets from the other intake makers?


EDIT: Yes they do provide ESTIMATED HP, but not actual dyno tests. I can provide you with a false claim, or I can provide you with ACTUAL FACTS about the intake, for what actually matters, the Intake temperature