I don't understand... Say, for instance, when I'm at a red light and depress my brake pedal, I notice the dash lights dim a bit, and even my idle dip and the temp gauge twitch... I've got bad grounds? How does that relate to my temperature gauge raising under specific conditions?

Please take the above in the vain it is intended. I just don't understand; I usually have to have things COMPLETELY explained or else I cannot understand.

 

Drew,

Hey man, not sure why the IM got blocked, but I will check my setup. So enough said, I'm sold. I will put in an OEM tstat asap. As far as the housing, it's in the works. One of the eyes that hold the bolt actually broke in half and the other bolt broke off flush with the housing. So needless to say, I had to do a little tappin and a little rigging plus some good ol'e RTV. But, still have some a-freeze sneaking it's way out. Might consider that guage as well. Apprecaite all you N/A homies inputs.

Drew, Let me know about the Clutch. I might take you up on that J-spec assy.

Goodlooking out fellas.

 

I found a clutch with 40k on it and threw it on my car tonight. Had to go to a buddy's to do it because I needed a better vice tool (stripped fan nut). When I got them both off, I really didn't see any difference in their clutch response. How could a centrifugal clutch be worn if it had resistance when you spun it - especially the same resistance as your replacement (at rest - not warm). I even told my buddy that I felt silly going through all this trouble with the clutch fan, and he kind of agreed. In a sense, replacing the fan was just a good excuse for us to talk about setting up a time to replace the water pump and thermostat. Anyway, got it on and drove it home (20 minute drive). I gave it all sorts of hell, and I'll be damned if the temp gauge didn't go past its common place. I was freaking out. Now, the outside temp was in the lower 50's, but still, I got it to get warm on the way up to his house, so I don't see how going home should be any different (maybe 5 degrees cooler). Then, to double test, I took my roommate for a drive about 30 minutes ago and drove it even harder. Hell, I was winding it out in every gear, and sometimes, I'd even sustain 4k and 5k loads for 5 and 6 seconds watching the temp gauge - nothing, rock solid. So, then I hit the exit ramp on the interstate wide open, and I held 4th to about 85-90mph, and as soon as I shifted into 5th, my gauge responded by raising mildly above half, but it then quickly fell back down a few seconds later. I turned around an exit down the road and repeated the procedure on my way back, but this time, nothing happened - solid read. So, as far as I'm concerned, the problem is a lot better, if not fixed altogether.

How does all that sound to you guys???

 

Havik, and anyone else having trouble with their t-stat housing, rx7world.com sells a new t-stat OEM housing and gasket for around 60 bones... Just thought I'd throw that out there.

 

Drew,

How confident do you feel about the new fan clutch? May you not want to consider a closer look when the summer temps get a little warmer? I'm usually fine when the temps are cool. Anything above 65 or so and I start having issues. Hey, another thing I thought of today was the possibility of the lower rad hose collapsing in? But then, would that be a blockage issue?Anyhow, I'll get up with ya later and talk more about it.
Thanks for the tstat housing link.

Later

 

Well, obviously every situation is different, and with the fan clutch, I feel like I did need a replacement - for good measure if for nothing else. However, your point about the warmer temps is well taken. Even still, I can see the temp gauge float, it just doesn't do it as much, and I can't induce it as frequently as I did before. Bottom line, I'm glad I did it, but I don't think I've totally gotten to the bottom of the issue.

I'm thinking that my belts are slipping at high rpm's. Why? Well, now at high speeds, as in cruising at 100mph, I don't really have an issue. It is in between gears and at the end of a wind that I see a response from my temp gauge. My next move is a dual alternator pulley and an underdrive pulley so that I can maximize belt grip on my water pump. Also, I'm running into some good prices on stuff I could stand to switch, such as a water pump (brand new - 50 bones). So, all things considered, I've already got a new radiator, and since the car has 147k and a new engine, why not replace the water pump, t-stat, belts, and pulleys if I can afford it? I don't need my air pump, and the mods I mentioned all maximize water pump performance.

You know, I might get in there and find out that something silly is causing the problem, but since I'm not losing any coolant, all my shrouding is in tact, and I've got a new radiator, a good clutch fan... Why not go for the t-stat, water pump, and pulleys?

 

I wasn't aware that you haven't replaced your tstat. Yeah man, take care of that first. Yesterday I adjusted my belts as well. Was afraid of the same mishap. It's been cool here, but as soon as it gets warmer, I am going to pay close attention to the gauge. See if that belt adjustment did anything. If not....OEM Tstat is going in there regardless. As far as the under pulley setup, I'd hold off until you take care of the basics first. You've gotten everything else straight, so why not take that ten minutes and pop in an OEM tstat. Then I'd go water pump. Who knows, the damn thing might be clogged with build up and it's flow is restricted. Either way bro, we still have some time to get to the bottom of this dilemma.

Peace

 

Good advice... I'll take it. How'd you tighten up your belts??? Never done that before.

 

Good advice... I'll take it. How'd you tighten up your belts??? Never done that before.

 

Good advice... I'll take it. How'd you tighten up your belts??? Never done that before.

Thanks, dude.

 

Good advice... I'll take it. How'd you tighten up your belts??? Never done that before.

Thanks, dude.

 

Sorry bout the double clutch.

 

No prob.
Belts....not sure what belts you have hooked up. I'm only running the alternator belt and the air pump belt. I took my power steering unit out and have the AC belt off for now. As far as tightening them, it's just a matter of loosening the alternator nut and bolt...the one on the alt mount bracket. The air pump has one bolt on top of the unit and one on the very bottom ( tight squeeze ) on the adjusting bracket. Just loosen them up and tighten the belts by putting tension on the alt and air pump until you have your desired tension in the belts, then just tighten them up. Might need another pair of hands to help out.
Anyhow, I did mine and it didn't make a diff. I was hoping it would, but not a thing changed. Worth a shot though you know. I am narrowing mine down to either a blockage in the system or my water pump. Let ya know what I come up with soon. Had a hot day here in NC, gauge was climbing fast without even pushing it too hard. I gotta be carefull.

I'll keep you and anyone else experiencing these overheating problems posted.

Peace

 

Did you install a mechanical gauge yet? You have no idea what the true temp is with the stock gauge.. I still say grounding problems.....

 

Grounding problems.....maybe for Mathetas's situation. I finally figured mine out tonight. I boiled it down to either the water pump or a major blockage. For those of you with similar problems. This is a must do! Start car to norm op temp, make a note of the guage. Next, shut car off and take fan shroud off, start car again and observe gauge, should see it start to climb. Shroud funnels air onto the rad, without it your guage will climb quickly. Now while you have the proper clearance without the shroud (still beware of the fan ) feel all over the rad, should have equal amount of heat exchange all over the rad. Mine, my pass side was hot as freakin hell and my driver side of the rad was nice and cold.....sign of blockage. To be 100% certain I put the shroud back on (not bolted, just placed on there so I can access the rad later) and took it for a 10 minute hard drive. After the extreme test run, my guage was at the 3/4 mark. I lifted the shroud out of the way (still running), and felt the rad once again. Same thing, hot as hell on the left and ice cold on the right. . Time for a new radiator . Anyone have any input on new rads? Where to get them and for how much....I am on a budget fellas.

Hope this helps for those of you with overheating problems. It was a damn mystery for me for a while. And thanks to all of you who gave me advice and info.

Peace

 

Man, dude... That sure is good diagnostic logic, there... Good to know you've gotten to the bottom of it.

I bought a Koyo (all aluminum) for $360. I've heard Fluidyne is the best, but that's all debatable. Anyway, I've seen stock rads (brass) with and without the plastic edges from $200-$300.

Havik... If you're in a bind for cash, I'd be happy to send you my old radiator (might need rodded out and cleaned, but no leaks) for the price of shipping. Honest. I'll even give you the measurements and let you find the cheapest shipping rates. I'm pretty sure I put it in the out building at my house at home. I'd have to go pick it up, but it's not a big deal.

IM me if you're interested, and we can work something out. Honestly, dude, I wouldn't spend a whole lot of money on anything but something like a Koyo or Fluidyne. So, that's why I'm offering. If I can save you money with mine right now, you can put some back until you can get a Koyo or Fluidyne.

Just an option...

 

I had the same temperature issues with my S5 TII, it turned out to be the clutch fan, although it felt fine it was stuffed.

 

Well... After spending a ton of money on upgrades and modifications... The answer landed in my lap for $15.

New Exhaust (Racing Beat) / Clogged Cats causing overheating...
New Radiator (KOYO) / Clogged radiator causing overheating...
New Water Pump / Not pumping enough water...
New Fan Clutch / Causing overheating...
Dual Pulley on Alternator / prevent blet slippage...

STILL HEATING UP...

Now, do you see anything missing??? Of course. It was something I certainly would have done first if the builder of my engine didn't downplay it as they said they put a new one in on the rebuild...

A Mazda OEM Thermostat.

Car runs in traffic and heat fine...

 

Oh, and by the way, unless you're planning on bypassing your air pump, which I do not recommend for S5 owners, DO NOT BUY A DUAL PULLEY FOR YOUR ALTERNATOR. It is useless. I found that one out the hard way too.