WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, i'm thinking i'm going to skip out on my next class to head to the parts store.. I'm rebuilding my 86 N/A, and i need to pick up the taps set to rethread the assorted bolt holes.. . my question is such: these are the taps i picked up from the video, but I'm not sure if my list is complete or not, any insite as to additional taps i will need?

6x1 (oil pump)
8x1.25 (front cover, stationary gear, etc)
10x1 (tension bolt)
10x1.25 bellhousing bolt holes (does nto need to be bottoming tap)

Also, what flavors of loctite will I need for the rebuilding? I know i need Red and I think Blue, any other colors?

PS - I'd check myself with the videos, but i'm at school

banzaitoyota

get your taps online from ENCO or MSC

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

why? are their taps better? I was going to head to Grizzly Industrial supplies, I've always had good luck with their products...

banzaitoyota

cheaper

RETed

Why are you retapping all those holes???


-Ted

banzaitoyota

Cleaning of the threads is recommended by running a TAP thru them, in order to obtain accurate torque readings.

RETed

Guess that means all my fasteners are all going to fall out then...

Seriously, I dump all my parts in a parts cleaner and then shoot everything out with a blow gun and the air compressor. The only problems I've got are the e-shaft front hole, which started with Loctite to begin with. Anything off the housings come out clean.

I'm not going to rant about it, but I think that's a little bit of overkill.

On top of everything else, you have a high probability of creating more metal chips which will also be detrimental to your threads. That would require another round of cleaning just to make sure it's all safe.


-Ted

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I agree with RETed. If you start running taps through things, you run a major risk of damaging the threads. All the critical bolts (save for the two outside tension bolts) are inside the engine anyway where they are kept clean. If you really want to clean them, use a pipe cleaning brush and some degreaser.

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

it's not used to tap it, just to clean it out, as was pointed out... Bruce suggested doing it on his video, then use locktite to secure the bolts.. Like Bonsai said it's too ensure accurate torquing...

I dont' think it' a nessceity, just a nice thing to do...

RETed

Another "Bruce video" thing... *shakes head*
We have had bad results with Loctite red/blue having exposure to oil - most of your holes you mention are going to have contact with oil.
I believe Mazda recommends putting some "light oil" on the tension bolt holes before they are threaded in. I would not want to be removing those tension bolts with Loctite on them. The tension bolt washers are tight enough without any locking agent on the threads. You are using brand new tension bolt washers, right? Tension bolts do not back out if torqued properly.


-Ted

scathcart

IIRC, you're correct, the FSM called for light oil or antiseize compound on the tension bolts threads.

Red Loctite has two places during engine assembly: Flywheel nut threads (as well as some sealant) and the front pulley bolt threads.

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

scathcart - I'm pretty sure bruce didn't say anything about loctite for the tension bolts, but I think there were a few other places he called for it, though, besides the flywheel nut and the front pulley bolts...

ReTed - Way out here in the stix, bruce is the only one to show me how to do this... I think I am one of maybe 4 or 5 people in this area that have a seven, there's not exactly a plethora of people to show me how to rebuild.. do you have any other criticisms about the movie? I'm always anxious to learn more.

ERAUMAZDA

When we rebuild turbine engine we don't use loctite and we don't use taps. Just get the oil out to prevent over torquing the screw, nuts, and bolts.

Matlock

When I put together a small 10 kilo ton dirty bomb. I didn't use loctite or taps either. I figure what the hell, at 2 million degrees, what's the point. Why waste good loctite on worthless people.

I did use taps and loctite on some spots on my engine though. The taps you have listed are the one's you'll need, there are a few odd ones, but unimportant. Blue and red loctite are the colors needed, there good to have around for most around the house and automotive stuff anyways.

HAILERS

**************Bonsai said *************

Hee, hee. Funny.

I'm not real big on using *thread brushes*, but things like the exaust studs and front cover bolt holes might benefit from a good cleaning with a tap and die.

******I dont' think it' a nessceity, just a nice thing to do...**** Sounds good to me. Just made this post because the Bonsai caught my eye. Funny. 10,000 Japs on Iwo yelling "Bonsai, Bonsai" as they charge up the hill. Humor, please. Not a serious reply.

Rpeck

You guys are looking way to much into this, just put the damn thing together right, and it will work. I have pinned my rebuild to 10K RPM's on the dyno (accident) and it held together.


-Robert

RETed

Nah, sorry, it's a good resource for a beginner. Once you deal with rebuilds constantly, the video turns out to be a joke. The video basically goes step-by-step as the factory manual does, and the "experts" have their own shortcuts and alternative methods that will usually make the process easier and faster. I just did a rebuild on a Turbo II shortblock and tumed myself at 1 hour and 10 minutes - not too shabby.


-Ted

Rpeck

With or without beer? That might be a record time for a "sober" build.

RETed

No beer! Damn beer over here is like 10%+ alcohol! I have no tolerance for drinking right now, so one glass is going to plaster me.


-Ted