midnight_7

im gonna be installing AFM and EGT gauges under my deck. i just wanna confirm where to tap these into.

AFM: ECU under the passenger carpet or O2 sensor?

EGT: I have the stock exhaust manifold then into a hollowed-out precat. in the future ill be getting the Bonez Superflo cat.

Also, i searched and found out that Autometer Z-series gauges dont read high enough (for these gauges specifically) for our cars. Whats a good alternative?

Kenteth

afm... air flow meter... they actually make guages for that?

perhaps ya meant afr, air fuel ratio. Tap to the O2 sensor. If you use the engine bay wire, don't use a y splitter thing cause the wire is shielded,and you'll short it out.

EGT: I'd put it a couple inches into the downpipe/after the maniold.

Good alternative?
haha, aviation gauges (and no I'm not kidding).
As a plus, they are generaly less expensive than ricer gauges, especially used.

EDIT:
:duh: AFM= Air Fuel Mixture

Sorry, that just popped into my head. Haven't heard that acronymn in quite awhile...

midnight_7

well typically AFM (in this site) stands for AIR FUEL METER.

where is the o2 sensor? i had read somewhere that u could tap it into the ECU under the "plug" that controls the o2 sensor?

my cars a 91 n/a...no downpipe. i have manifold-precat-maincat-catback.

razorback

o2 sensor is in on the precat. beside the turbo. thing with a wire coming out of it.

Kenteth

be good if he had a turbo :P

I'll see if I can find a picture for ya midnight

EDIT: I suppose this will work, ignore the carp of vac lines in the foreground



its the thing connected right after the exhaust manny

EDIT: now that i look at it... it appears to be molded into the manifold. Meh, never noticed that before.

EDIT: good ole mspaint:

midnight_7

thanks, Kenteth. Ive been doing alot of searching online and there doesnt seem to be an EGT gauges that reads higher than 1600 (Autometer Z-series).

i dont wanna spend an arm and a leg.

what brand would u recommend for aviation gauges?

Kenteth

Aviation gauges are a bit harder to find outside of a dealer. You can sometimes units that are sold with kit planes. I'll see if I can't dig something up on ebay...

razorback

didnt see the n/a part.

Kenteth

I'm not going to do the conversion, but that should be somewhere in the vacinity of 2k deg F

As a notice, if you do use an aviation spec gauge, keep in mind that most aviation electronics run at 16v instead of 12v. EGTs won't matter too much because they are just an electrode getting heatted up super hot. You migh want to check the wattage on the lightbulb in the guage though to make sure its 12v compatible (95% chance it would be)

If you go this route, keep in mind you'll be having to call the manf to check what temp probes (usually automotive is Type K, IIRC) are compatible used with their gauges. Generaly the EGT gauge just moves the needle based of the linear voltage from the electrode stuck inthe exhaust. (Electrode + heat = voltage).

EDIT: 1000deg C = 1832deg F = 1271K (IIRC)

midnight_7

thank you for the help

Kenteth

Too many edits :P

Last couple things, that gauge above is on ebay, 0 bids (no big suprise... they aren't incredibly eye candy are they?)

$23 with 3 days left
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=26436

EDIT: (yet again, edit...) Its actually somewhat trivial if you need a high temp gauge. Though there would definately be times you would be pegging a 1600 deg F gauge, most Type K probes probably aren't sufficiently accurate over 1500def to do much tuning anyhow.

midnight_7

man ur like the typical "in-site genius" like REted, Icemark, Aaron Cake...etc.

could i extend this thread to ask u a few (non-gauges related) questions?

Kenteth

I'm not even close, there more like gods :P

I just know alot about things here and there. I suppose they are a bit the same maybe. If I had to tell ya their expert ares, Icemark and AaronCake got the electronics covered to no end, trust me. Give them a schematic to something, and they are picturing how it works in their heads! Same with Hailers. As for REted... He's got one of the most useful (if not THE most useful and informative) websites refering to FC's. Check out fc3spro.com sometime. Be amazed at the wealth of information there.

EDIT: (dah again) For what its worth, I didn't know jack **** about cars 6 years ago--(I seriously didn't even know a good place to look for where the dipstick/oil fill tube would be at). Lets just say I know my fair jist about them these days.

Owning an FC means you're forced into learning alot about your car. Don't be suprised in a year or so if you do a road trip, and have most of your tools stuffed into the hatch, along side with a box of the original FSM printed out.

Goodluck!

EDIT: And I ain't typical biatch

midnight_7

REted is FC3Spro? WOW...i have that in my faves and it is informative big time.

well i just wanted to get ur opinion on an SAFC2 for my car. its a 91 n/a auto...converted to a t2 5 speed. i have an intake mod already (retaining the stock airbox) and have the RB catback and Superflo units ordered (just waiting for them to arrive). im gonna get a Crane Cams Hi-6 and those gauges we talked about.

i wanna keep the car n/a......is an Safc 2 worth it?

Kenteth

Ahh, I forgot about Higgi too, hes a guy that makes custom parts oversears (I thought he was in cZech, anyone know?)

Also Kevin Landers (rotaryRessurection) knows his way around. He's helped me out a few times sourcing parts. Also Dan Atkins at www.atkinsrotary.com and camden SCs.

To be honest, I doubt it. In reality though, we'd probably be getting more power out of our n/a's by leaning the fuel out more than we would adding fuel. an SAFC is definately justifyable when you start go blown (sc or turbo,) because the fuel required would overcome the duty cycles on the stock fuel injectors and fuel maps, causing the car to go lean where bad things happen.

I don't think it will be much an issue in your n/a. I've got a cone filter (meh) and a high flow exhaust with no precat or cat (just straight to the muffler) and I doub't I've ever once come close to needing an SAFC.

Personaly if you're really considering an SAFC, I would save the few hundred bucks extra and get a stand alone. The benefits would be huge over an SAFC. You could (if you wanted to) get rid of almost all the engine bay crap (even replace the manifolds with aftermarket stuff). Standalones are pretty damn powerful. Its not really justified on a daily driver 2nd gen n/a... But I'd imagine it would be good for about 20-30hp either way.

Plus cleaning the enginebay and not relying on a 15yr old computer can't be a bad thing.