Archangels

what precautions should i take during and after i put the manifold back?...

how much should i torque the bolts, and i do remember someone saying that a strip of ductape over the bottom intake manifold is a very good idea to prevent anything from falling inside....

any other tips you guys may have?...

adrock3217

Ok. When taking them off, shove 1 balled-up papertowel into each runner. The duct tape will work too, but the papertowel's don't leave any residue, and will stay longer..

When moving them, ABSOLUTELY make sure nothing falls into the LIM, connected to the engine. If you have any kind of debris (I had a entire squirrel's nest on mine, haha), VACUUM it off before pulling off the UIM. Or, before moving it, slip a peice of paper in between the UIM and LIM.

When putting it back on, make them snug, and then give about a half turn. Use Loctite on all nuts, and the one long bolt down the middle.


As a side note, make notes of where all the vacuum lines went. (Maybe take a bit of masking tape, and put "A" to a hose and it's respective nipple, "B" on the next, etc. This will save you a lot of time in the end, not having to break out an FSM to look up the correct spots.

Archangels

awesome, thanx!...

i think i saw someone do it and they didnt have to take off any vac. lines though, hmm....

ilike2eatricers

Wow locktite is a little extreme. Definately overkill. Just use good judgement when tightening the nuts down you dont need a torque wrench for this stuff.

fstrnyou

i've had my UIM off over 2 dozen times and never torqued anything. locktite is very overkill. and i only put paper towels in the LIM if the UIM will be off for an extended period. but it's a good precaution to take if you're careless. don't know what to tell you about the vacuum lines as the NA's may be different.

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

intake manifold nuts/bolts should be torqued to 15-20ft-lbs in fact most 12mm bolts/nuts that are being threaded into aluminum should be torqued to 15-20 ft-lb ... do not use locktite

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Taking the UIM off is pretty easy. Is "it" completely stock? If so, it'll take a little longer.

Either way, pull off the IC and work your way around. There are 3 vac. lines in front, the BAC plug on the pass. side (and coolant line), a vac. line running to the pressure sensor? two white plugs in the back, as well as 4 vac. lines, the big brake-booster line, the throttle-cable, there is the TPS plug on the drivers side, as well as the 'atomizer plug'? After removing these, undo the 1 bolt and 4 nuts from the pass side and gently lift up on it. There will be one PITA coolant line running from the UIM and down into the rear-iron. I would suggest cutting it to save yourself the hassle of attempting to pull it off in it's stock "form". Replace it with a new "90 degree" bend" hose and two 'screw type' hose-clamps.
\
Yeahhh... I probably forgot one or two things, but it's pretty self-explanatory. Like ricers said, just tighten the nuts/bolts until they're tight and don't drop any a nut into the LIM (although this really wouldn't happen).

inflatablepets

Note: Tighten the bolts up all the way until they start turning easier then back out one quarter turn. J/K Just be careful and study the way it all looks before taking it all apart.