Ryde _Or_Die

Alright, I have a walbro fuel pump sitting in my room. Ok, if I install it and rewire it can I run intake, dp, mp, and tid and have enough fuel for sure?

niner

is it the 255lphr one? i think you should be safe, but personally I would try to get some gsl-se injectors for secondaries or something just to be sure. but hell, maybe someone here has the same setup and will say it works fine

I ******* hate my walbro fuel pump right now though. Its my fault though, I put it in and threw the old one away and now the car wont start b/c it floods out bad everytime i turn the key. The new jspec has low compression and i need to get it to run for a while to hopefully build it up some, but I cant get it to start. Sorry for the little rant, but thats my current experience w/ my walbro pump. Yours will probably be better. I'm gonna put my friends old 240sx pump in sometime and try getting it running w/ that.

Ryde _Or_Die

Ya its the 255 one. I think I will be good with a DP/MP/TID mod but would love to be sure. Its always a "you should be ok." I wish it could be, "ya you'll be good, no problem."

Scott 89t2

depends 100% on what boost level you end up with.....

gsracer

I have a related question:

I'm getting the RB turbo back soon,

I have ported the stock series 4 wastegate to the max it can go with the stock flapper.

I plan on keeping stock everything but the RB system. With the fcd, 255lph walbro, full exhuast, and massively ported wg, will I be ok provided I actually maintain 10psi or so?

I have greddy boost, and egt guages to monitor my situation. The racingbeat dp has a place for the egt guage. At what temp should I start getting nervous of running lean?

I plan on getting the apexi safc soon, but I don't want to blow up my motor if this is whats going to happen. Stock the ecu runs rich, and with the fuel pump I'll be super rich, so even with 10-11 psi, I figured I'd be ok, but I'd rather be safe than sorry

Ryde _Or_Die

Ok, well what boost level is a fcd and walbro fuel pump good till on a S4? Thanks.

fastrotaries

I had a 3" turbo back, with the TID mod and still ran the stock pump and fuel injectors. The injectors had been worked on by RC but were still the stock size. The profec - B only ran 10 psi but a few times while tuning, the car ran 15 psi. It was all good. Oh yeah a G-force chip. But you can substitute that with an AFC. SO i don't see why you should have a problem. As for the guy with the flooding issue. Try an AFC.

Ryde _Or_Die

Ok so with the 3"dp & MP and the TID mod I will be good with just a fcd and walbro fuel pumo unless I see some great boost spike?

gsracer

lol I have certainly noticed a reluctance for people to say affirmatively - "yes it will be ok"

like someone said it really depends on your car. Each car and situation is different. I think even with the stock catback, a ported wg would be a good idea. I'm pretty sure you should be ok. (lol notice use of pretty sure)
Just make sure you WATCH THE BOOST GUAGE.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

That set-up can blow your engine no problem. I ran a RB downpipe/presilencer, TID, FP rewire, 89+ alternator, walbro 255lph and a hugely ported wastegate.
Problem was boost creep in 5th in upper rpms popped it. I bet sticking to the stock intake would help this some as it is very restrictive in upper rpms.
All these fuel band aids that add fuel but leave the stock computer not enriching after fuel cut levels suck!

RETed

I just love this type of logic...&nbsp "I ran x, y, z mods and it blew up - it was Y that blew the car up."&nbsp Bullshit.&nbsp The 255lph Walbro fuel pump can easily systain a 300hp FC.&nbsp There's a lot of OTHER things that could've killed your car.&nbsp The short list:

bad fuel filter
clogged fuel injectors
bad timing
crossed spark plug wires
bad spark plugs
broken wire somewhere

I would tend to blame ANY of the above before blaming the fuel pump.&nbsp Can you proved you leaned out?&nbsp If the engine did lean out, can you prove it's the fuel pump?&nbsp Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?&nbsp If you said NO to ANY of the these questions, you're not qualified to make conclusion that the fuel pump is junk.



-Ted

NjFC3S

I have the same pump (Walbro 255 L/hr) and like you, mine's sitting in my room for about 6 weeks now.... You know what, I think I'll go outside and install it now while the weather's still nice and cool.. I just hope I wouldn't come across any problem 'coz I need my car to go to E-town this Wed, weather permitting...

Aight, later and good luck with yours!!

JohnL

When I first bought my 88 Turbo II it had 81,000 miles on it. I installed a FCD, Full raceing beat exhaust and intake. Ran that for around 6000 miles then added the FCON computer. Raced the hell out of the car, motor lasted until 104,000 then on a cold night I was running it and at 6400 rpm it lost power.. and that was it for the motor. However, I never had a boost gauge and this was the stock turbo, and guess what.... I was boosting that motor anywhere from 11-16psi.. the 16psi happens on the freeway when you drop it into forth gear and hammer the throttle... boost spike big time, but I know idea I was running that high of boost levels. So you can judge your own opinions on what will blow the motor.
But if you have clean fuel injectors, upgraded fuel pump, and re-wired fuel pump, I personally thing your good to 12-13 psi..
I now have cleaned fuel injectors from RC engineering, upgraded fuel pump, fuel pump re-wire, and a SAFC, however I'm finding tunning the SAFC about +2 the motor seems like its getting to much fuel, I have yet to dyno it. But like others have said, every car is different.

NjFC3S

Ok... I finished installing my Walbro pump yesterday right after I logged off and it was kinda easy except for the rusted bolts that needed banging inorder to come off. Anywayz, my only concern was when I checked the voltage going into the pump after everything was done, I only read about 8.5 volts. Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it supposed to be at least 13 volts?.. Any ideas guys?.....

Chad

SaabGuy

The stock fuel ssytem runs the fuel pump at a lower voltage until you start beating on the car (start hitting boost above 3500). 8.5 volts is pretty low at idle. you should see 10-11 volts at idle and then 14-15 volts when you are beating on your car.

Rewiring the fuel pump is a great idea.

NjFC3S

I'll definitely rewire my pump later on but for now, do you think it's enough to handle my mods for the track tomorrow?

My mods:

RB FCD, RB 3" dp, 3" md and cb, K&N cone intake system, NGK platinum plugs, Magnecor 10mm wires, Trust bov, and home made MBC (about 15psi but will lower it later)

Ryde _Or_Die

Shouldn't you have someone check the voltage to the pump while you are at WOT like in high RPMs? I haven't installed my pump yet because I have no reason to. I don't have anything to control the fuel with and don't have enough mods(orhardly any for that matter) to need more fuel.

Scott 89t2

NO!!!!!! 12 max. personaly I'd go 10 till you had a bigger intercooler.

Scott 89t2

ya but there is a big diff between running a pump ONLY trying to make 300hp on stock ecu, timming, and injectors. and using the pump in conjuction with bigger injectors, S-AFC etc. the question in this thread is what will adding ONLY the pump surport. just becuase the pump can surport 300hp. doesn't mean just adding the pump will give enough fuel for 300.

but no the problem isn't the pump, it's the driver for not adding the rest of stuff also needed.... the pump is just a backbone.

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

I tried running a DP, presilencer and 3" straight pipe out the rear with a intake, TID with FCD and a FD pump (11.6v at WOT).

With a wideband the car started leaning out after about 10-11psi (sorta hard to tell exactly at full boost in 3rd). A/F ratios were in the 11.5-11.9 range before the TID, after the TID the boost went nuts even in 3rd gear and it would lean out like crazy. The testing was done in the winter, outside temps were in the 40-50 range. If it was the summer I doubt the boost creep would have been that bad.

This was on a 87 TII, the WG was ported like crazy, the WG hole was actually a little bigger than the "flapper".

The fuel pump alone won't save you if the boost starts creeping alot.

Jeff

Ryde _Or_Die

So what do you think about intake, 3" dp/mp, fcd and walbro fuel pump? Think I should be fine?

Scott 89t2

as I said it will depend on the boost... put everything on. if you are only running 10psi it'll be fine. if you floor it and it shoots past 12 Let the hell off!! and then work on ways to lower it... port wastegate or stock airbox back on.

Ryde _Or_Die

Sounds good, don't wanna floor it and boom! Guess I'll have to slowly lay into it. Good thing summer is here and its hotter than a ****. Anyone have any idea how much boost you can lower by porting your wastegate(S4)?

Fatty_FC3S

RE TED

How much HP is that Walboro 255 good for? Will it support a ported turbo motor with 720 primaries, 1600 secondaries, fuel pressure regulator and 60-1 turbo? How does the Walboro compare to the RP competition pump? This would be controlled with a Wolf 4.0, thanks for the help.

Graham

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I just love this type of logic... "I ran x, y, z mods and it blew up - it was Y that blew the car up." Bullshit. The 255lph Walbro fuel pump can easily systain a 300hp FC. There's a lot of OTHER things that could've killed your car. The short list:

bad fuel filter
clogged fuel injectors
bad timing
crossed spark plug wires
bad spark plugs
broken wire somewhere

I would tend to blame ANY of the above before blaming the fuel pump. Can you proved you leaned out? If the engine did lean out, can you prove it's the fuel pump? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If you said NO to ANY of the these questions, you're not qualified to make conclusion that the fuel pump is junk.


What the hell? I never said I had a problem w/ the fuel pump; I never said it was junk. I will be running the same pump w/ my new set-up.
If you read my post you will note that I said the SET-UP can blow your engine no problem. Everything on your "short list" was new, timing checked out- except injectors; but I never had a reason to suspect them being clogged as AF ratios had been OK.
The problem is that the set-up cannot supply enough fuel for the level of possible boost creep. You still have fuel maps only up to boost cut limits and then a gross rich condition that can only cover a limited amount of boost over fuel cut levels.
It was fine when I boosted my normal 7psi- it was fine when it crept to previous max 10psi. But guess what, one time I was running it to the top of 5th (and not looking at my Greddy AF meter or my Greddy boost guage, because I like to look way ahead at the road at 160mph plus) And I heard three very sharp stuccato cracks I had never heard before and immediately and simultaneously glanced at my AF meter to see it still falling like a rock and let off the gas. Peak hold on my boost guage showed just over 1.0 Kg/cm2.
Now he listed the same set-up I had w/ out a ported wastegate and I repeat- THAT SET-UP CAN BLOW YOUR ENGINE NO PROBLEM.

Ride_or_Die said

Alright, I have a walbro fuel pump sitting in my room. Ok, if I install it and rewire it can I run intake, dp, mp, and tid and have enough fuel for sure?

I gave him a specific example from my own personal experience on when this set-up will not provide "enough fuel for sure"- boost creep in higher gears! Now you can say that I was an idiot for going that fast and I would have to agree; but Ted, you have said that you use your car for top speed runs so you should know about this boost creep problem.

Why are you so staunch on your defense of this set-up? You do see its limitations don't you? Do you claim it can handle any boost/flow/intake temps the stock turbo/IC etc can provide? I don't understand... Ian