2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

The synthetic Oil Rumor.. Well... Racing Beat begs to differ

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Old 01-25-02 | 02:42 PM
  #26  
FJ's Avatar
FJ
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From: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Originally posted by HWO
in the end, the best soltuion for a rotary turbo is:

Ditch the OMP
Premix it
and run fully Synthetic oil in the sump
That's how I see it for any rotary. Best of both worlds.
But you can avoid using premix by using an adapter for the oil metering pump and feeding it two stroke oil from a reservoir (like the cold start assist bucket). The adapter is about $100 u.s. and you can see it here:

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

-John.
Old 01-25-02 | 08:40 PM
  #27  
deadRX7Conv's Avatar
Opinions are like........
 
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Prov RI
Is the OMP adapter the only to go if switching to full premix on the '91 RX7?

Will the computer tolerate the removal of the OMP when I decide to go full premix or is the adapter the best way to go?

I have a feeling that if I go full premix, my OMP will still be hanging off the side of the engine to keep the computer happy.
Is there anyway to fool the computer to think the OMP is still there and working?
Old 01-25-02 | 09:27 PM
  #28  
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FJ
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From: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Mazdaspeed7 mentions how he disabled his S5 OMP on this page, near the bottom:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...+metering+pump

-John.
Old 01-26-02 | 02:26 AM
  #29  
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From: Lawrenceville,Georgia,U.S.
I have been running synthetic oil in every rotary I have ever owned - starting with my 71 RX2! That car would not even start in the New Hampshire winters without it! (Sure, the weak starter didn't help!) If deposits were a problem, I never saw any evidence of it - no engine rebuild has been needed by me yet (Knock on Wood)! No compression loss was ever experienced by me also! Right now, I am running Royal Purple 10W30 in my 87 TII, and it runs great! Not only that, my oil usage dropped from 1 Qt/week to 1/2 Qt last month. Hey, 30 years of usage have made a believer out of me!

Irv, Keith's dad
Old 01-26-02 | 10:08 AM
  #30  
10TH_ANNIV_T2's Avatar
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From: Egg Harbor, WI USA
Told ya. Can o'worms......

Lots of good valid comments in this thread though, for both choices.

Anyone know what the spec is for the new RX-8?? It will be interesting to see what Mazda recommends for that.....
Old 01-26-02 | 02:13 PM
  #31  
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From: Cali
I have tried almost all types of mineral oils. There are two that I do like, one due to the availablity and the other due to its use.

On my T2, I had used Kendall 20/50 for about 3years. Changed the oil every 3k miles. I had never had ANY failures. The car ran very smooth. I had also used Redline 20/50, when I had started to autocross it and drag race it. I did notice more oil comsumption. I had thought that the seals were going....so, I had switched back to Kendall...and had noticed that comsumption was normal.

So, I believe that the new syn oils to burn.

I truely believe that proper care and proper modifications are the key to your engines survial.

After my first rebuild, the housings (except for the rear housing, the apex seal jaming from getting to greedy with the boost) were in spec.

I would total like to continue to use syn oil...but, the cost factor per quart....nah......

Proper care is all that is needed.

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