silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

With the factory oil metering system blocked off and running exclusively on pre-mix, It's coming near to change my oil (3000km's).

I have heard that Mazda did not use synthetic In the rotaries b/c, as we know, they don't burn to well and leave gunky deposits In the housings. But that was attributed to the factory oil metering system being used.

Is their any consequences to using synthetic know that the FC Is not burning anymore oil from the crank case? I have also heard that synthetic eats away at the seals. Is their any truth to this?

I'm sure the Rotary Engine could benefit from synthetic oil allowing It to run much cooler. However, I don't want to get burned at the end realizing that synthetic was NEVER mean't for our engines to begin with!

Silkworm

This topic came up on the IT forum.. And most of the racers there were using synthetic if they went to premix.

PaulC

scathcart

I don't run my MOP, and I run synthetic. Works great.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

How long have you guys been running synthetic? Have you noticed better results? Most Importantly, do you still change your oil at 3000km;s?

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

IT Forum? Not sure what you mean. I did a search under "RX-7 Forum" with no luck.

scathcart

I've been running synthetic for about 6000 miles.... two oil changes.

The crappy thing about oil is you usually only know when its NOT working. What kind of better results should I be expecting just from driving? I didn't engine dyno it before, and I won't be doing it to this motor, so I can't help ya there. I won't be rebuilding this motor, so I can't help ya there either.

Without a MOP in place, the oiling system of the rotary engine hardly differs from any other type of engine. Do I know synthetic is doing a better job? Nope. Do I think its worth the cost being double normal oil? Nope.

The Apex seals will still wear out and break at the same rate no matter what oil you use, as it depends on the premix or MOP injection. As we all know, in rebuilds, its almost always the Apex seals, and almost never the bearings. Dyno oil works great for rotaries, so unless you are hell-bent on spending twice as much on oil, or plan on rebuilding your motor multiple times, I wouldn't recommend switching. IMHO, its not worth the extra cash. I can think of better ways to spend the extra $50 a year.

I run synthetic b/c I was stupid when I put it in. For a 7000-rpm street engine, I think dyno oil is fine.

And yes, no matter what oil brand, type, or viscosity you run, you still need to change it at 3000 kms or 3 months, whatever comes first.

Sean Cathcart

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the explaination. I guess, really, their Is no conclusive Information to state that Synthetic Is right on for those who pre mix.

Also, the point about the Apex Seals wearing out just as fast as conventional oil says to me their Is no practicallity to doing this conversion.

I think that I can find something else to spend my money on with the savings I will have at the end of the year.