2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Symptoms of a bad U-joint?

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Old 08-08-05 | 01:23 PM
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Symptoms of a bad U-joint?

How can one find out if a U-Joint is going bad? Any sounds or tech problems I should know about? Thanks.
Old 08-08-05 | 02:07 PM
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Rockn' The Galant

 
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A clunking noise every time you shift is a great indicator or vibrations at xxx mph
Old 08-08-05 | 03:10 PM
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when mine broke, it rattled so much my teeth chattered on less than perfect roads. loud noises are also a good tip-off.
Old 08-08-05 | 03:28 PM
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is this expensiveto change ??
Old 08-08-05 | 03:38 PM
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$248.20 from mazdatrix, and that's a driveshaft with a replaceable u-joint. The stock u-joints are non-replaceable, you have to replace the whole driveshaft.

http://mazdatrix.com/g9.htm
Old 08-08-05 | 03:41 PM
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It only happens when I get into first gear. Is it still this?
Old 08-08-05 | 03:44 PM
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pp

 
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If its only in first you could have a transmission problem.
Old 08-08-05 | 04:19 PM
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Clunk in lower gears = front U joint, clunk in higher geras rear U joint. It may well vibrate before you hear the clunking. Be cautious, before assuming only the U joint also rule out motor/tranny mounts as well as diff mounts.

Last edited by Jodoolin; 08-08-05 at 04:29 PM.
Old 08-08-05 | 04:24 PM
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1. the OEM U-joints are staked in and slightly difficult to replace, but not impossible. Search for the threads I had running a while. I replaced mine for $20 a piece (give or take a couple bucks)

2. The easiest way to tell if a U-joint is going bad/is bad is to remove the driveshaft (30 min tops) and rotate the yokes in a 360. If it doesn't spin easily, then the U-joint is seized and needs to be replaced. If you remove the driveshaft, mark the rear-diff and the driveshaft so you can re-install the driveshaft exactly the same way it was removed to avoid problems later.
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