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Switching Solenoid Valve?

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Old 09-06-04, 08:22 PM
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Switching Solenoid Valve?

I am a little confused on this one... what exactly does it do... and what happens when it goes bad?
Old 09-06-04, 08:55 PM
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If you're referring to the little grey guy out on the vac rack, he sends a vac source when energized to the switching valve on the ACV, which switches air from the exhaust port ACV pathways to the cat air pathway, which is opened further "downstream" by the split air solenoid valve. I'm doing this all from memory, so if it's wrong, NZ and Hailers are gonna jump my ***, lol...

Oh, forgot- if it goes bad, no cat air, I guess...

Last edited by WAYNE88N/A; 09-06-04 at 09:01 PM.
Old 09-06-04, 09:17 PM
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Ok.. let me ask it this way then.. as it seems you like to reply to me the most.. (i'm very greatful)

could this valve be causing some of my problems? At the Ecu I am reading 1.62 volts from that with the ignition on... That is pin 2O... I have not tested it with the engine on due to the whole close neighbors thing... But that seems to be a problem to me being that its suppost to read 12 with the ignition off.. according to http://www.geocities.com/huguesdc1/faqdiagnosing.html
Old 09-06-04, 09:37 PM
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You're right, it should be reading 12v at idle, AND with key on, because it derives it's power directly from the main relay, and as long as the ECU is not grounding it (to energize it), that 12v should be there. It could be that the ECU has it energized with the key on, though, in which case it's doing it's job. It could also be broken, however, resulting in your (damn near) no voltage. The only way to check for sure is to get a voltage reading at idle. Make sure your positive lead is making contact with the pin in the ECU plug, too...The only problems this guy is going to cause, though, are trivial as far as performance is concerned (emissions are another story). If it never energizes, all of the air pump air will be routed to the rotor housings' exhaust ports, or overboard, depending on what the relief valve is doing at the time...

Last edited by WAYNE88N/A; 09-06-04 at 09:41 PM.
Old 09-06-04, 09:48 PM
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Scratch the last part of that above- I really need to quit doing this **** from memory, sorry...

OK, here we go (with the FSM cutaway for reference now, lol):If the switching solenoid never energizes, all air pump air will be routed to the split air pipe (cats) IF the split air solenoid valve is energized, or will be routed overboard, depending on what the relief valve is doing. Now I think we've got it right
Old 09-06-04, 09:54 PM
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so the chances of that having anything to do with my problems are slim to well not even slim to none..

the only other things that were out of range were the air temp sensors pins 2K and 2L. But I cant see that causing all this fuss.
Old 09-06-04, 09:58 PM
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All right, I "talk" to a lot of guys here, remind me of your problem...

Air temp sensors? Now you've piqued my curiosity
Old 09-06-04, 10:09 PM
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Was your original problem just the wavering idle, or was there something before that? Before the AFM thingy...
Old 09-06-04, 10:11 PM
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Rev'n to 4-5k on start up then coming down to 1000 and bouncing up to 1500 constantly and steadily...

My AFM Intake Air Temp Sensor is reading 1.36 volts at about 70-75 deg. Where the spec is 2-3 volts at 68 deg

My Dynamic Chamber Air Temp Sensor is reading 2.6 volts at about 70-75 deg. where the spec is 1-2 volts at 176 deg.
Old 09-06-04, 10:25 PM
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OK, I remember now...

The AFM sensor is not that far off to cause problems, I would think...

And 2.6v would be about right for the dynamic sensor if the engine was still warm from a previous run...(In fact I've recorded a 2.4v after she sat awhile after shutdown)

You have to check these bad boys after the engine is totally cooled down to ambient temp, if you're going to compare them to a known temp spec...
Old 09-06-04, 10:36 PM
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Right.. that why i didnt mention them before.. I figured they were close enough after concidering the engine had only been sitting for about 30 min
Old 09-06-04, 10:45 PM
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So you're back at the starting line again, eh? The AFM tweaking did nothing to solve the 5K thing? Have you tried to disable the 3k startup system to see if that has any effect? And the TPS is known good, right?
Old 09-06-04, 10:54 PM
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The tps is good.. tested and calibrated.. the afm tweaking did help some.. as I did get a steady rough idle out of it earlier today.... then it stalled.. but hey.

The 3 k startup system being the fast idle cam and such? I have poked around that area but there isnt much room back there as I am sure you know... so I have not poked around much at all
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