I was reading up and remembered that 20w50 is better for higher temps (temps 80+ degrees). Ive been running 10w30 Castrol Gtx since the motor has been built but I figured it would be a good idea to switch to the 20w50 for the summer.

I do live in Georgia though so it is pretty warm year round and I was wondering if its better just to run 20w50 year round.

What are the benefits of switching to 20w50 ?

I think that you get higher oil pressure and more protection from the oil especially at higher rpms but the bad part is you also get more carbon deposits dont you ? Having that better protection youll be able to redline or at least rev to 5500+ rpm to burn off the carbon deposits (if it does make more deposits then 10w30)and be getting more protection than the other oil would so the engine will still last longer.

If 20w50 is all around better choice and will help my engine last longer I might use it as long as temperatures are 30+ like the manual says u can use 20w50 and 10w30 is what you use for if temps are below 30 because 20w50 is too thick.

 

20w50 would be great and it wont hurt anything... now if u are gonna go to synthetic u can swap over to a 10w50 I am an authorized ELF oil dealer..

Dave

 

I run it and a friend with an FC swapped the same week as I did. we both noticed the car feels more responsive. Your oil pressure will rise a bit though.

 

How much higher does it raise the oil pressure to ? Bringing up the oil pressure is only bad for pontential leaks at the pressurized areas.

I think in the next couple weeks maybe I'll switch to some castrol gtx 20w50 and see how much a difference I feel from it.

My car is s4 na, i donno how much diff it makes on na compared to turbo.

 

I run Castrol GTX 20W50 in both my Vert and T2 except for the cold winter months. Oil pressure might rise some but I wouldn't think it's anything to worry about unless you start pegging out the gauge or do have potential problem areas anyway. As a side note when I started using Mazda filters I noticed that raised it some also. Aside from what the gauge says I don't know if you'll notice any difference in things but your engine will like you.

 

I live in S. Fl. and I run castrol 20-50 all the time in my 91 N/A. No problems at all.

 

i have a older (129,XXX) TII car that i think the motor is the original build but has great comp. would this oil help my car in the summer? (i live in Michigan so it maybe gets to 95 once a year)

 

I use mobil 1 oil filters, arent those good? I would think they raise oil pressure too since they are made to flow more efficiently.

 

ive used nothing but 20/50 in my cars even when i went thur my honda b series thing. gtx is the best i think, then valvaline. never use penzoil it sludges up in the pan pretty bad i think . course thats just my thoughts on it. and wixs filters are also good

 

The Mazda filter if I recall correctly (been running them so long I've forgot all the **** I've read on here) have more filtering capability than just about anything made. Somewhere in all this mess are more than a few threads about it with either or both Icemark and Aron talking about it along with several others who I would say know what they are talking about. All I know is when I switched my pressure went up.

 

i've noticed i have lower oil pressure than is to be expected, and i do have leaky cooler lines, should i stay away from 20w50?. (sorry if percieved as attempted thread jack, just want some info =)

 

Maybe I should get me some of those then, I wonder how the prices compare to mobil 1, im about to check on mazdatrix.com

There are two choices on there page not sure which one would be better. There is a one size fits all then another one.

 

I live in TN and run 20w50 year round.

 

I run 20 50 in the cold bay area weather year round. Doesn't hurt anything to do so.

 

I always run 20w50.. Castrol GTX baby.

 

^
+1 ftmfw

 

I use atkins filters.. he always throws one in the box when I order stuff from him...

 

+1 on atkins oil filters. They are the only one to use.

 

I run 20-50 year round. Winter and summer. Can't wait to see the bashing.

 

I would like someone to buy an OEM filter and an Atkins filter, cut them open and see if there is a difference. I vote OEM filter being the best. To me, getting an atkins filters is like getting a craftsman chainsaw, they don't design them, they slap their name on them.

 

You could get mixed thoughts on this. Some may say 20-50 is thicker there for you will leak more because its hard to force 20-50 through the engine. Others, like me and some of the experts say that 20-50 will stay on the parts longer and lubricate better then 10-30.

I look at it this way, what temps does my engine normally see? 190*F is where me engine usually sits. The temps do climb up to around 200*F before the e-fan kicks on.

According to FSM. 10-30 should be used in temps from around -20*F to 90*F.
20-50 is for temps from about 20*F to beyond 120*F.

You can not tell me that those numbers are for the outside air temps. The outside air does not keep my engine at a lower or higher temp.

In 0*F weather my engine take less then 30 seconds to reach 80*F at the thermostat cover. The engine oil is right behind the combustion chamber in the rotor. I say within 5 seconds the engine oil moving through rotor and rotor bearings is above the 20*F operating temp for 20-50. Plus, 2050 oil is still lubricating below that and is still being forced through the motor.

 

Right this is what could be debatable-supposedly some engine wear happens at startup, like when you change your oil, those first few seconds of startup are dry, the thicker the oil the longer it will take to get circulating.

I know I don't like how my MPV's duratec sounds for those first few seconds...you can definitely hear some more ticking\tapping.

 

Agreed. Since 20/50 has less additives then 10-30 or 10-40, there is more actual lubricating oil. 15-50 I think is around the same with 20-50.

Since there is oil always on the parts inside, I can't see enough wear happening to worry about it, especially with 20-50.

 

I just went by the dealer today and picked up a six-pack. The smaller one, part # B6Y1 14 302 9A is what I use. I get them for $4 per filter since I know the guys otherwise it's like 6 bucks and some change. I wouldn't order them, just go by a Mazda dealer and pick them up.

 

Atkins filters are OEM filters... they take a Mazda filter and put their name on it.