Suspention upgrades on our FCs
#1
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Suspention upgrades on our FCs
Thats got to be the next mod on my ride. My suspention sux. I think Ill be going with RB Springs and KYB AGX Shocks. Anyone have exp with either good choice, bad choice, and other options I should consider.
Thanx FC Brothas
Thanx FC Brothas
#4
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whoops, I meant rear camber link. I'm going the coilover route because you can play with the ride height. They use linear springs. I'm not sure progressive springs are good for anything besides comfort in street driving, because your handling disposition will change during a turn. Also, you can use the coil-overs with the camber plates up front, which means you can adjust front camber easily, which can be useful for racing. I've heard of some people with dual duty cars getting the alignment done and marking the different camber settings on the plates, so they can change easily at the track. Another benefit of going with coil-overs is you can use generic racing springs instead of car-specific ones, so you can change rates more easily (and cheaply!)
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#8
SOLD THE RX-7!
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he told me a while back (like a month...) that it would be 2 weeks... if they won't be ready in the next 2 weeks or so then I wont' be either. did he give you a date?
#11
I need new, and due to budgetary constraints and the desire to keep a street comfy ride, I'm getting the KYB gas-a-just along with new stock springs early next week. At least I get some improvement over the stock 86 N/A suspension. Shocks are in, waiting for springs to arrive.
#12
Need donor car in Fairfax
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i have KYB AGX + ST's Linear rate springs (all ST's are, but if you didnt know )
Daily driving while KYB's are set on maximum is bumpy, but one will get used to it fairly quickly. The problem is the adjustability. Without a strengthened chassis and new rims/tires, the ride is surprisingly annoying. When strengthing the chassis, the shocks have to put out less effort during hard turns and during daily driving. With stock tires ( mine are currently 225/60/15) and KYB's on maximum setting, there is not *enough* suspension power. I cant set them any lower for fear that my turning capability will be deminished. Also, when inside a hard turn, drifting occurs constantly, but not controllable because of the DDTS system (too lazy to look up exact initials) but because the power is shifted to the outside tire, car behavior is unexpected at times. Since the tires on stock RX7s are not the 'best', ive had to experience many times my tires skidding and not gripping, having the back fishtail and me ending up half way over the pretty yellow line in the middle of the road.
As said earlier, strengthening the chassis reduces the effort the shocks/springs have to put out, giving a firmer ride on a lesser stiffness setting. So basically, without doing mods such as: roll bar/cage, camber links, susp. bushings, sway bar, strut tower/lower (cusco makes lower) the shocks must be set on stiffest to recieve a nice amount of turning capability.
If your planning on just upgrading shocks/springs..save yourself money and get stiff shocks non-adjustable. If your going for a nice ride w/out going coilover, get adjustables and continue upgrading the rest of the system to recieve maximum adjustability usefullness.
Also...TIRES are a must with any suspension upgrade...its just not fun taking a turn and having your not able to grip..
any elaborations on topics/corrections..be my guest..cuz i'll learn from it too
Jeff
Daily driving while KYB's are set on maximum is bumpy, but one will get used to it fairly quickly. The problem is the adjustability. Without a strengthened chassis and new rims/tires, the ride is surprisingly annoying. When strengthing the chassis, the shocks have to put out less effort during hard turns and during daily driving. With stock tires ( mine are currently 225/60/15) and KYB's on maximum setting, there is not *enough* suspension power. I cant set them any lower for fear that my turning capability will be deminished. Also, when inside a hard turn, drifting occurs constantly, but not controllable because of the DDTS system (too lazy to look up exact initials) but because the power is shifted to the outside tire, car behavior is unexpected at times. Since the tires on stock RX7s are not the 'best', ive had to experience many times my tires skidding and not gripping, having the back fishtail and me ending up half way over the pretty yellow line in the middle of the road.
As said earlier, strengthening the chassis reduces the effort the shocks/springs have to put out, giving a firmer ride on a lesser stiffness setting. So basically, without doing mods such as: roll bar/cage, camber links, susp. bushings, sway bar, strut tower/lower (cusco makes lower) the shocks must be set on stiffest to recieve a nice amount of turning capability.
If your planning on just upgrading shocks/springs..save yourself money and get stiff shocks non-adjustable. If your going for a nice ride w/out going coilover, get adjustables and continue upgrading the rest of the system to recieve maximum adjustability usefullness.
Also...TIRES are a must with any suspension upgrade...its just not fun taking a turn and having your not able to grip..
any elaborations on topics/corrections..be my guest..cuz i'll learn from it too
Jeff
#13
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is the K2RD coilover kit a threaded sleeve, like ground controls. or are they a threaded body shock, like more expensive HKS or Apex coilover kits?
#14
Ya how much are the K2RDs? I was pretty much set on the ground controls but if they are the same and the K2RDs are cheaper why not go with those. Where do you get them anyways?
#15
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www.k2rd.com
I can't believe that guy did the adjustable socks and new springs and didn't pop the extra $40 for the DTSTSTSSSTS removal bushings...
I can't believe that guy did the adjustable socks and new springs and didn't pop the extra $40 for the DTSTSTSSSTS removal bushings...
#16
I don't pretend to know much about suspensions, if I'm putting in non-adjustables with new springs are there bushings I should have replaced at the same time? While those are being replaced I want to make sure everything in the way of pieces/parts are done as well. Want to have as much taken care of now, not later.
#18
i'm currently running on racing beat springs with tokico shocks and i love this suspension set up to death. altho it doesn't give the smoothest ride, it sure as hell can eat up those twists in the road. it's a vast improvement over the stock suspension and u can definitely do a lot more with the car while going thru the twisties
#19
I Raise Chickens
Originally posted by Gene
www.k2rd.com
I can't believe that guy did the adjustable socks and new springs and didn't pop the extra $40 for the DTSTSTSSSTS removal bushings...
www.k2rd.com
I can't believe that guy did the adjustable socks and new springs and didn't pop the extra $40 for the DTSTSTSSSTS removal bushings...
those are a big pain to change.
#20
I Raise Chickens
Originally posted by gr0undz3r0
thanx for all the info so far keep it coming. Also the K2RDs are not listed on thier site or did I miss it? Are they near completion.
thanx for all the info so far keep it coming. Also the K2RDs are not listed on thier site or did I miss it? Are they near completion.
http://www.k2rd.com/Online_Catalog/F...sion-index.htm
I have the complete kit with the setup he recommends for road racing, 350# front springs, 225# rears. Its a really awesome setup. The camber plates are 10x better than the one ground control sells.
#21
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yeah, i've looked at the removal, the caliper and axles have to be messed around with to get to bushings. Anyway, i cant even turn to the full extent because of tire related issues, so why would i stiffen the chassis even more when i cant stick to the road as is. Im currently saving for 17x7.5 5zigen model 7's ($1200).
RLBRX7:
When replacing shocks/springs..the only things i saw that 'could' be replaced were the spring perch, spring perch bushing, and retainer nut (am i missing something.......).
the retainer nut SHOULD be replaced when new springs are put on shocks. Usually new shocks will come with some. Not a Necessity, but definately doesnt hurt. Also when installing..dont start kirking out when your springs are not even compressed when you put them in the car after tightening all the bolts b4 installation. The spring is supposed to shorter or it wouldnt be a lowering spring (someone eased my troubled mind when i kirked thinkin somethin was wrong). the only thing that scared me was lowering the car hearing 'creeeeeeeeeek'....
Jeff
RLBRX7:
When replacing shocks/springs..the only things i saw that 'could' be replaced were the spring perch, spring perch bushing, and retainer nut (am i missing something.......).
the retainer nut SHOULD be replaced when new springs are put on shocks. Usually new shocks will come with some. Not a Necessity, but definately doesnt hurt. Also when installing..dont start kirking out when your springs are not even compressed when you put them in the car after tightening all the bolts b4 installation. The spring is supposed to shorter or it wouldnt be a lowering spring (someone eased my troubled mind when i kirked thinkin somethin was wrong). the only thing that scared me was lowering the car hearing 'creeeeeeeeeek'....
Jeff
#22
if i could do it all over again id do the k2rd coil over kit with my kyb struts. right now im running the eibachs, and am not completely fond of the handleing ont he freeway. seems to sloppy.. but then agian im almost 20.. so i like it rough!
#23
I like linear springs the best and adjustable shocks/struts (the AGXs are a nice choice), upgrade your sway bars (same brand front and rear) and get a FSTB and you are ready to carve some twisties
#24
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Originally posted by darkwaveboi
i have KYB AGX + ST's Linear rate springs (all ST's are, but if you didnt know )
Daily driving while KYB's are set on maximum is bumpy, but one will get used to it fairly quickly. The problem is the adjustability. Without a strengthened chassis and new rims/tires, the ride is surprisingly annoying. When strengthing the chassis, the shocks have to put out less effort during hard turns and during daily driving. With stock tires ( mine are currently 225/60/15) and KYB's on maximum setting, there is not *enough* suspension power. I cant set them any lower for fear that my turning capability will be deminished. Also, when inside a hard turn, drifting occurs constantly, but not controllable because of the DDTS system (too lazy to look up exact initials) but because the power is shifted to the outside tire, car behavior is unexpected at times. Since the tires on stock RX7s are not the 'best', ive had to experience many times my tires skidding and not gripping, having the back fishtail and me ending up half way over the pretty yellow line in the middle of the road.
As said earlier, strengthening the chassis reduces the effort the shocks/springs have to put out, giving a firmer ride on a lesser stiffness setting. So basically, without doing mods such as: roll bar/cage, camber links, susp. bushings, sway bar, strut tower/lower (cusco makes lower) the shocks must be set on stiffest to recieve a nice amount of turning capability.
If your planning on just upgrading shocks/springs..save yourself money and get stiff shocks non-adjustable. If your going for a nice ride w/out going coilover, get adjustables and continue upgrading the rest of the system to recieve maximum adjustability usefullness.
Also...TIRES are a must with any suspension upgrade...its just not fun taking a turn and having your not able to grip..
any elaborations on topics/corrections..be my guest..cuz i'll learn from it too
Jeff
i have KYB AGX + ST's Linear rate springs (all ST's are, but if you didnt know )
Daily driving while KYB's are set on maximum is bumpy, but one will get used to it fairly quickly. The problem is the adjustability. Without a strengthened chassis and new rims/tires, the ride is surprisingly annoying. When strengthing the chassis, the shocks have to put out less effort during hard turns and during daily driving. With stock tires ( mine are currently 225/60/15) and KYB's on maximum setting, there is not *enough* suspension power. I cant set them any lower for fear that my turning capability will be deminished. Also, when inside a hard turn, drifting occurs constantly, but not controllable because of the DDTS system (too lazy to look up exact initials) but because the power is shifted to the outside tire, car behavior is unexpected at times. Since the tires on stock RX7s are not the 'best', ive had to experience many times my tires skidding and not gripping, having the back fishtail and me ending up half way over the pretty yellow line in the middle of the road.
As said earlier, strengthening the chassis reduces the effort the shocks/springs have to put out, giving a firmer ride on a lesser stiffness setting. So basically, without doing mods such as: roll bar/cage, camber links, susp. bushings, sway bar, strut tower/lower (cusco makes lower) the shocks must be set on stiffest to recieve a nice amount of turning capability.
If your planning on just upgrading shocks/springs..save yourself money and get stiff shocks non-adjustable. If your going for a nice ride w/out going coilover, get adjustables and continue upgrading the rest of the system to recieve maximum adjustability usefullness.
Also...TIRES are a must with any suspension upgrade...its just not fun taking a turn and having your not able to grip..
any elaborations on topics/corrections..be my guest..cuz i'll learn from it too
Jeff
This is totally the DTSS bushing, you need to loose those, thats why you are fish tailing. It's actually not that bad, yes you had to pay a machine shop to press the $40 dollar bushing in, and yes, you have to tear apart your suspension, but it's REALLY worth it....
#25
Originally posted by darkwaveboi - Since the tires on stock RX7s are not the 'best', ive had to experience many times my tires skidding and not gripping, having the back fishtail and me ending up half way over the pretty yellow line in the middle of the road.
If your crossing the yellow line and you think its your tires fault because they are stock you need to slow down. It sounds like you are over driving your car. If you want to drive like that try autocrossing. The experience gained from the seat time is much more useful than all those suspension goodies.
Back to the original quesetion. Keep your suspension simple. Racing beat spings and the adjustable KYB's or Tokico non adjustable's will work good on the street. They provide a noticable improvement over the stock parts and can be lived with on a daily basis. Save the rest of your money and buy some good performance tires.
If your crossing the yellow line and you think its your tires fault because they are stock you need to slow down. It sounds like you are over driving your car. If you want to drive like that try autocrossing. The experience gained from the seat time is much more useful than all those suspension goodies.
Back to the original quesetion. Keep your suspension simple. Racing beat spings and the adjustable KYB's or Tokico non adjustable's will work good on the street. They provide a noticable improvement over the stock parts and can be lived with on a daily basis. Save the rest of your money and buy some good performance tires.