I saw this post a while back in the thread about someone wanting info on my alternator: I basically redesigned the thing and have it pegged at 140amps...you can do it yourself (slightly an "8" on the PITA meter) of buy one from Summit Racing. They've got one that should bolt right on that puts out 110-140amps as well. You might have to fiddle with belt sizes, but that's about it. I do it because I'm running all of those Hella and PIAA lights up front, and the amps I'm using for the stereo are Crown A/C units...so...I needed ALLOT more juice. I highly recommend everyone who runs hotter amp lighting to get the Jacobs Headlight intensifier system (or one from Summit Racing or comperable models) or build your own set of relays and heavier wiring. Fire - unless under control - sucks in a car :)

Sorry about the "signature" part exceeding the legnth imposed by forum...I was following Aaron's lead. It has been edited and adjusted accordingly.

that system you useing sounds very much like one of the newer DFI systems, a lot of the systems now allow you to connect a laptop. Pretty amazing that you got a system thats not designed for rotary engines to work :)

now all we need is a program that can recognize the rpm speed since it sounds like we can just use a DFI system to get the RPM speed to the computer. From there it would be ez to write a prog to control the supercarger based off engine rpm.

I think this is a great idea if you can make a Supercharger that pushes between say 6-15 psi at around say 1000 cfm and make it cost effective then I am in. Shoot as long as its less than 3000 like a camden supercharger hell I say this project is an awsome idea.

amazing thread, i read the new posts everyday at school, keeps me awake during computer class for once.....
anyways Frank, do u have any pics of your car, with all those mods i'd like to see how ur car looks, engine, interior everything...
later guys.

-rico-

so you are making it applicable up to 25 psi? im still not completely sure on how all of that works but you can count me in on buying one. especially if it gives an NA that kind of boost. im definatlely watching the forums on this one!

so you are making it applicable up to 25 psi? im still not completely sure on how all of that works but you can count me in on buying one. especially if it gives an NA that kind of boost. im definatlely watching the forums on this one!

You can count me in. I would love to help with the computer area if you need it.

Until I came accross this Discless turbine, I thought I was a person of intelligence, I guess I'm not as smart as I thought I was. Anyway, is there any kind of "idiots" explaination of how this works? I love reading how stuff works (I tend to read a lot on the rotary). but everything I can find (including the links provided by Frank) are just to damn hard to understand for me. If there was an ANIMATED diagram, that would help. My comprehension has always sucked donkey balls when I'm reading things. I'm much more of a visual person. HowStuffworks.com has saved my booty a few times when explainations, maybe we should e-mail them and ask them to make on of the Tesla turbine.

TIA
Dustin

Interesting stuff...Cant wait to see how this comes out.

Rat

As far as photos of the car go, I'll snap off some pics and scan them in for all of you to look at. The car was litterally taken appart, item by item, checked out, and then reassembled with new parts and wiring put in where necessary. One of the things that "sold" me on the car was this process - this car is BUILT. Even the way the body is assembled, protected, the wiring runs, everything is top-shelf production. Last night, a fuel cell and high volume race pump was installed, and the basic plumbing for the future bolt in of the supercharger. I wrote a new program to allow control of the unit from inside the cockpit. As far as understanding the Tesla Turbine and Pump further, try these links. Read over the material slowly and carefully - it WILL make sense.
http://www.frank.germano.com/tesla_turbine.htm
http://www.frank.germano.com/fluid_propulsion.htm
http://www.frank.germano.com/tesla1911patent.htm
http://www.frank.germano.com/tesla1921patent.htm
http://www.frank.germano.com/improvedmethod_vac.htm
http://www.frank.germano.com/lostinventions.htm

That should give you the most comprehensive information on the net regarding design, use, and construction and operation of the units. Good reading everyone, and thank you all for the continued support. I'll be away on business over the next several days...I'll post some results probably on Monday/Tuesday.

Frank

thedguy - i was in your boat too.. i didnt understand a dang word.. all of it was written to complicated.. not enough basic understanding for me.. i know how it works now though because i read Teslas patent, he explained it well i think.. better than the others ive seen i believe (no offense Frank).. i just think its easier to understand.

http://www.dogpawz.com/skylos/tesla/1061142.html - the patent

jmloggedin- "so you are making it applicable up to 25 psi? im still not completely sure on how all of that works but you can count me in on buying one. especially if it gives an NA that kind of boost. im definatlely watching the forums on this one!"

dude if u run that kind of boost on an unmodded na it WILL detonate! even modded, na housings will not be able to handle 25 psi. for just one thing the exhaust ports on an na are not big enough. there are nmany others too.

i didnt make myself clear i guess.. i meant from 2 to 25.. and i know you cant run that kinda boost on an NA. i MEANT it gives NA the kind of boost that has been discussed. wich was like 6-8 psi.. i meant a boost of speed not psi. sorry wrong context.

i love this stuff I just got done reading this hole discussion and as soon as you get this done I will buy one I already subscibed to the yahoo forum for the special dicount lol.. but I ve been wanting to put somehting on my car and I understand how this works its pretty simple I dont know hy some of you guys cant get this your basically just forcing air with an electric motor instead of belt driven. And Frank has a system that flows more air more quickly and effieciantly than a supercharger system get it got it good lol.. jk guys just wanted to help with the understanding.. Frank I want one I buy one and give you all the info from my car your going to work hard on this and I want to make sure you get your money first I cant do this stuff so someone has too get paid to do it

Hey, guys - I need some help and/or some suggestions. for the past three days now, everytime I go to start this beast for the first time in the AM, I end up with a no-start. Pull the fuses (the initial "no start problem") and crank it for about 15 seconds with the accellerator floored...put the fuses back in and it starts right up. I had THOUGHT I defeated this nagging little PITA problem. What might this be indicitive of? Has anyone had this same type of problem, before? I have that part ordered to supposedly elliminate this...hasn't arrived yet. My oil pressure is now at 55-60lbs. at idle. I have replaced the thermowax pellet with MazdaTrix's "dummy plug" (replacement for part #11 plug)...what the hack would continuously cause this cold no-start deal?! Any and all help would be greatly appreciated, especially if it has happened to someone and they know pretty much what it may be that is causing this. Let me guess...my Wankel is about to roast...

Dirty leaky injectors are a common problem.

Low compression in the engine could be a possibility?

The easy band aid is to put a fuel pump switch to kill the pump on start up. There are write ups on here somewhere as to which wires to tap into.

JT

P.S. where in PA are you?

The first thing I thought about were the injectors. Got them on order as well. You mean to tell me that THAT tiny amount of gas dripping into the interior of the Wankel will destroy the compression enough to give you problems with cold starts? And I want to supercharge this thing...I think it's time to get a brand new engine from Mazda Trix...

I dont think it destroys the compression its just to much gas ontop of what the injectors throw in on start up, Plus what ever extra got spit in there on shut down.

Yeah, the leaky injectors cause a flooded condition basically, they don't wreck compression. (Well, it could I guess, if it washed the oil off the apex seals)

Well...low and behold - just got the Anti-Flood Module AND the new fuel injectors via UPS...can't wait to see what this little AFM thingy does tomorrow morning. Compression is dead-on what it should be, so it's got to (I HOPE!) be one of these two problems, which, are now being addressed. We should have the supercharger spooling up sometime over the weekend. One little tidbit - it's going to end up being belt driven...after allot of debate about DC electric motor vs belt drive...belt drive has won out due to a number of obvious reasons, mostly due to compatability with engine RPMs and response time/real-time control. For now, looks like either the AC compressor or the air pump are going...if the air pump is the option, there goes passing emition tests for anyone who lives in a "sniffer" test state (inspections) which PA is NOT one of them...

frank, i think you should start another post for you cold start peoblem. Its getting off topic in this thred. But anyway, have you done a search for that problem in google? i know thats pretty common. But how could that happen if you not useing the stock ECU?

The ECU (under the passenger side floor) is still somewhat "active". What is tied into the dynomometer and thus the laptop are all CONTROL issues - It is (and I hate to say it this way) piggy-backed into everything. I can over-ride most of the signals and adjust most of the engine functions in real time. Again, the program is for recording and registering engine functions to determine optimum settings. I needed to get as many "normal" figures BEFORE we started doing mods with the supercharger. As I said in the last post, it looks like it will now be definately belt driven. Just have to decide WHERE to put it, and what is going to "go" accessory wise. Sorry about including the no start post to this thread...just figured that so many have been responding to me personally/private messages, this was the quickest way to get a good response/accurate.

you can pass emition tests with out an air pump. You can even get a cat with no airpump inlet. I think the pump only helps emissions on startup. once everything gets warm, they dont do much. But your going to have problems opening up your 5th and 6th ports in S5 cars with it gone.

Is response time/real-time control the real reason for going to a belt drive unit? With a belt drive, you going to need internal gearing in the SC to get it to spin at the high rpm's needed. Then you going to need a oiling system for those gears, just like a centrifuge charger. The problem with all those extra gears and stuff is going to drive up costs. If you have a variable speed electric motor that will work, i can get a couple of my friends together and we can make you a stand alone system that will take care of SC management. As long as it can spool up reasonably fast, it should work fine. It donsent need to spool down fast, theres other ways around that. But all the electric motors that i know of that can generate that kind of speed (just how fast is this thing going to need to turn?) and torque are quite large and have a pretty good draw.

Frank if it's going to be belt driven i would definately check out SuperchargedRex's site ( http://www.geocities.com/boatseason/ ) and maybe PM him about the pulley he ordered to get his supercharger to not run into the red on acceleration. he also has a few links to other guys sites who also installed superchargers on there 7's. i think i've even seen an old nelson/paxton installation guide out on the net too.

As far as placement goes it pretty much has to be placed above the air pump near the TB. This also means that you need to fashion a bracket of some sort strong enough to with stand the stress (i've heard of some poor quality ones breaking).