No, my question isnt about disabling it.

Actually, my warning buzzer comes on around 6200 rpm...
My car also idles around 1400...

I'm wondering if they're related. Maybe a bad TPS could be causing this, or should I start hunting down vacuum leaks?

 

1400 IS WAYYY too high. check TPS, and idle screws.

Is your car Turbo or N/A

 

Na...

I've just adjusted the idle screw all the way down & its still idling at 1000...

Going to see if that had any effect on when the redline buzzer comes on.

 

A few things come to mind, along with the TPS sensor and Idle Adjustment screw...

- Fast Idle cam / thermo pellet not expanding
- BAC valve opening too far
- ignition timing not to specs.
- instrument cluster removed/replaced and needle pressed in wrong position (check RPM's using Hand-held or other tachometer)

 

Made myself the little diagnostic tool, & I'm getting one long pulse, & one long pause.... I read that as an oxygen sensor problem.

 

FYI, its not a redline buzzer, its a shift buzzer. It comes on around 6200 to tell you that you are close to the redline.

 

6200 RPM for the buzzer is too low it should come on between 6800 and 7200 for S4 models and Turbos

and the Buzzer is unrelated to idle or TPS

 

Thx for the input.

My car is an automatic (for now), so let me ask this. Does this buzzer react differently, whether its an automatic or a manual? But, when driving aggressively, you HAVE to manually shift & is what I have to do in order to approach the redline.

In order to get the idle down out of the stratosphere, I had to crank the idle screw completely down all the way, which seems extreme to me. Adjusting the idle did nothing for the RPM at which the warning buzzer comes on. But, it IS idling normally now.

Is this buzzer wired into the ECU circuitry? I'm wondering if my O2 sensor being bad, could be the culprit for both of my symptoms.