st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

I'm gonna get beat up for this....

Ok, so my clutch slips at low rpms, especially in 4th and 5th (Makes passing on the highway sooooo annoying) All I need is to replace the clutch plate right? Or do I need a pressure plate as well... Sorry for the dumbest question in the history of the forum, but I really have no idea what I can keep and what I would need a new one of.

89 gtu 110k miles stock... if it matters any.

jonesfromindia

not even close to the dumbest question.


just replace the whole clutch assembly since you have to take it apart.



EDIT:

this is the dumbest question: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/88-rx7-dual-exhaust-647149/

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

I see... So, autozone has this http://autozone.com/R,APP351242/vehi...ductDetail.htm

I'm trying to do it this weekend, I don't forsee much free time in the future, so I can buy online, but I'd rather not.

Any comments about duralast? I'm not really into racing and all, sometimes I get a little peppy with street driving, but I don't think I need anything heavy duty.

So will that kit have what I need?

RB_eater

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't recommend changing a cluth yourself, it needs balancing and should be changed by a mechanic (or a good DIYer).

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Thats EXACTLY what I wanted to hear, lol. The shop here in town will charge $295 for the labor and to resurface the flywheel, I want to get the parts myself to avoid any additional overhead (they probably just get it from the O'Reilly's accross the street anyhow)

So would that kit above be all I need?

jonesfromindia

blah, i used to work at napa. most autoparts stores **** is...well....****. i would rather get as close to stock aftermarket clutch. make sense? lol. their clutches are cheaper for a reason.

AcidAngel7477

iTrader: (16)

get an o.e.m. clutch thats a given, changing a clutch isent hard at all and balancing isent needed you just change it..thats all, and hes right if your going to go in there you might as well change the whole thing if you can afford it..yes, even the pilot bearing, that way you dont have to worry about it..and dont forget that clutches need a breaking in period..


:AA:

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Well I am on a limited budget, and I bought this car in the condition it is so I could work on a new "skill block" if you will. Automotives have always interested me and I wanted to learn how to maintain my own and be fairly self sufficient. If I could do it myself then that would be great. From what I understand so far, (this comming from an old ford mechanic) You lower the transmission a little and slide the bell housing back. He said you only need a couple of inches or so. I guess I would figure it out once I actually got to that point, but it's my DD and I have a 30 mile commute to work. Anyone have any tips or suggestions that could turn this into an afternoon thing? Or would I honestly be better off paying the $300 to have the shop do it?

Funkspectrum

iTrader: (5)

rock a racing beat setup...inexpensive and good...

twilight slide

W.T.F.
Care to elaborate on how it needs to be balanced? Clutch is an easyish job, made even easier with the help of a friend. The biggest problem people seem to run into is getting the flywheel of for resurfacing. You will need an impact wrench or a piece of flatstock to bolt to the flywheel to keep it from moving. Besides that, it's fairly easy, if a bit time consuming. I would pull the inspection plate to check for leaks first. My clutch did exactly what you're describing, it was because the input shaft seal on the tranny was leaking. . .

bryanfc

Clutch change by yourself is easy if you have the right tools, just get a buddy over for assistance in the heavy lifting area.. and get some beer

To get to the clutch, basically you need to:

remove gearknob and shifter
remove driveshaft
disconnect all the sensors/wiring/speedo cable
remove clutch slave cyl
remove starter motor
drain gearbox oil
remove bolts around the bellhousing and pull the gearbox back and out all the way (heavy.. use a jack to lower it)

definitely get a new thrust bearing and new pilot bearing if you want.. might as well do the oil seal at the back of the back of the tranny too.

don't skimp on getting the flywheel machined.

the rest is pretty straight forward.. installation is reverse of above.. with the exception of you'll need a clutch alignment tool to get the clutch aligned properly ($10 or so)

grab a workshop manual too and have a read.. will make everything very clear, and make sure you torque the flywheel/pressure plate bolts up properly too.

You'll most likely need to jack up the front of the motor in order to reinstall the gearbox as well.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so I decided on a clutch kit. I've heard EXEDY mentioned when it comes to clutches, and I haven't heard anything negative in the same sentence, so I found this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...4612800&rd=1,1

I don't know about gripforce, but I figured that for the price it might be worth a shot. Anyone care to tell me if I've made a horrible mistake?