Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

I just recently swapped in a JDM S4 TII motor into my 1986 GXL. I installed a 3 row Koyo aluminum radiator along with an efan. My car would start to overheat when I started driving but when I just start it cold and let it sit there idling for a good 20 minutes, it would get to 185*F and stay around there. I don't have the plastic undertray, nor can I get one easily, so I got some large plastic for sale signs and cut them to fit underneath my car from the front bumper all the way to the front subframe, and runs across to each control arm. I just took it for a test drive and it seemed like it was doing fine for about 5 minutes. At 185 the thermostat would open, and the temp would drop down to 179~ and stay around there. Then it started to get hotter slowly, and I was going about 65 with the fan off almost the whole time. It got to 220*F when I cut it off.

I am completely and utterly clueless as to what it could be. The thermostat opens, my radiator can't be clogged because its brand new, and the water pump is brand new.

Please, I am desperate to get this car running cool. Any help is appreciated.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Mechanical fan or electrical fan?

Sounds like your mechanical fan clutch is worn out.

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

Efan. It works fine.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

Been there , either run with top cap off (good coolant seal it wont overflow) or bring it to a shop and have them run a pressure test . Fail means a coolant seal leak

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

I've done it with no cap and it doesn't overflow. I'll probably get it pressure tested. I hope its not a bad seal. The motor is brand new

barkz

iTrader: (1)

How is you Efan wired to turn on/off and how are you reading coolant temp? ie: stock or aftermarket gauge

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

Its wired to a switch and I'm reading temp off the rtek 2.1 I have

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

With it sealed and over heating , how is your overflow tank ?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

What kind/type/brand of Efan and how many CFM's?
Do you have proper ducting to the Fan?
Do you have a Belly tray on the car.
Is the Fan a 2 speed?.if so Have you tried it on the HIGH setting?
Also..PUSH type or PULL type Efan?

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

Overflow tank has no bubbles. Efan us from AutoZone and is 1 speed. I made an underbelly tray and I'm using the stock fan shroud.

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

Oh and pull type efan. Not sure of cfm

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

My buddy said that switching back to the stock clutch fan may help.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I'd go that route first.
it's quick and easy..Besides there is nothing wrong with having the Stock Clutch fan.

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I'm going to do that. Need to find one first. I'm getting a new OEM thermostat Monday as well.

bumpstart

if airpump delete then requires the 10a550 belt around water pump and main pulley to be sure the pump isnt slipping

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

Put stock fan back on and check belts for now.
Do you still have an ac condenser up front?

barkz

iTrader: (1)

I've got stock fan parts if you need them

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

I don't have an air pump, a/c or p/s. I'll try to get that belt.

And I'll take them off your hands. I have a stock na fan and clutch but I need the metal piece that fits it to the T2 pulley

bumpstart

those are the metric belt numbers

in US it is marketed by pineapple? as the "yahoo" belt

you have to put it on 3/4 and then turn the main pulley over by hand ( or jog engine )
bit like a bicycle chain going on

beware it turning inside out when you put it on .. but usually fixed by rotating everything backwards

you will get a 180 degree wrap around the water pump and it will never slip

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

Cool. Sounds good. I'll get a hold of one of those belts then.

bumpstart

thinks same belt is found on old minis and mitsubishi astron2 engines ( magna, sigma, triton )

and

dunlop / hoover 38528-403

thinks for you an eqiv is 3L220 though thinks it is slightly looser

should be able to get the metric one from "gates" fan belts

NativeBeggars

iTrader: (1)

Aric you know how I feel about it. The 3L220 is the right part number, bumpstart. However they are by no means as reliable as having a proper pulley and belt setup. You need to run the Banzai or equivalent alt pulley and two alt belts.

In high-rpm cases, I have also seen and read about people's water pump pulley being warped by how tight the belt is on the pulleys paired with heat. Sometimes even eating up the bearing in the pump by putting too much undue pressure on one side. That's why I got the Banzai pulley. Comes with two belts and no spacers or adapters needed.

bumpstart

two belt pulley is all show and no drive

been doing this for 25 yrs, long enough to know the fantasies from the truths

one belt will be tight
and the other loose
and never will you get that nearly right unless you change belts in pairs

'
2 lots of 15 degree wrap do not equate to the traction one belt with 180 degrees of wrap

lduley

iTrader: (1)

I somewhat agree native, I bought a yohoo belt, and when I saw/felt how tight it was, it really worried me about putting to much stress on the e-shaft bearings. So far I'm only running the 1 belt, but I only drive in the city, and rarely high RPM my engine. Except in a couple weeks when I probably need to drive it to maryland.....I'll have a dual belt than

Sudowoodo

iTrader: (1)

Well I ordered a yoohoo belt. Hopefully it'll fix my cooling issue and make me yell "yoohoo!" Bad joke is bad? Yeah, probably.