VetteKiller

ok it works like this:

sometimes I'll start up the car, get it to the end of the driveway, and I'll start down the road. Then all of a sudden the car loses all power. I push the gas down and its very very very hesitant to rev. The A/F isn't even reading. Then if I get it to 4000RPM the secondaries kick in and the car runs as if nothing was wrong and the A/F gauge starts reading again until it drops back below 4000RPM. It will rev strong from here up, but not below this

What would make my primaries barely put enough gas in to run the car??? The car does not do this consistently either its very random. It does it if the car is cold, it does it if the car is warm. And if you don't keep the gas down a bit the car will stall out when you stop.

I have a brand new Atkins Rebuild with 3000mi on it. There is a crack in the exhaust manifold and my EGR valve is shot. My mods are in my sig.

Any clue as to what would cause this?

BLK90TII

Possibly it is a bad O2 sensor or a clogged fuel filter. It sounds like your computer isn't controling your primaries. It could be b/c it isn't getting a good air fuel reading. It could also be that the primaries aren't getting any fuel. That's why I say fuel filter. Are you getting any codes from the computer? It could also be the relay for the fuel pump. It might be bad and not sending a signal to the pump when you're below 4000rpm. My advice for right now is to not drive the car and check these things out. If you do drive the car you run the risk of blowing the motor. It's like hitting the fuel cutoff all the time.

VetteKiller

O2 sensor is brand new but I am getting a code for it being bad when I run error check

almost every hose and filter on the car is brand new from the rebuild. I will have to check out the O2 sensor.

RETed

I doubt it's a fuel problem or even targetted at the primaries - the fact the engine runs fine above 4kRPM (or above the fuel injector crossover) tells us otherwise.&nbsp It sounds more like an intake leak if anything.&nbsp It could also be a faulty component like the AFM or TB, as both will be barely opening at lower revs.&nbsp Check the TPS also?


-Ted

VetteKiller

Thanks Ted,

The TID on the car is stock and brand new. I had to swap in a used AFM as mine was not sending the correct signal to the fuel pump. I will also check the TPS and vaccum hoses and hopefully find something.

twiztedjeckel

keep driving it as is and don't worry about it till your car won't start again. throw in some more ATF while your at it so next time i "barrow" your exhaust it'll smoke like a smoldering camp fire.

VetteKiller

BASTID!!!

how's your car running these days? and how the hell did you get the tips on the exhaust looking like they were, my car charred them within 2 weeks!

twiztedjeckel

just gotta know what your doing and not be burning oil or running rich. doesn't take a genious. they stayed clean for the short while they were on my car. and speaking of mine its running great. got the slight temp creep down with the 180degree stat and now i'm working on getting a fluidyne and buying marks black magic. i'll probably throw a short shiter in there and some new fluids and see if that helps out my shifting pattern. currently working on yanking the A/C stuff and power steering and already got rid of that damn heavy useless air pump which all of this stuff will be going up for sale shortly. next step, wheels and suspension!!!

VetteKiller

my car is running fairly stoich, only rich when I give it WOT, what did you polish my tips with? They were bright and silvery when I got the car back.

twiztedjeckel

black magic liquid metal polish. picked it up at wal mart one night. hey,are you back in pulaski? do you ever do any salmon fishing? i plan on going up to our cottage more often now that the fish are starting to move in off the lake and into the river.