FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

Ok, I have replaced the oil control valve, the regulator, the o-ring and the teflon ring(the castings and o-ring combo are correct, i check mazdatrix), i have the Oil Metering Pump removed and blocked off. I am still getting little above 0 at idle and 35-40 above 2000rpm. Wierd thing is at start up the pressure is close to 60 but when it warms up it goes down. I am so ******* frustrated, did the front housing removal today and that was a bitch. What else is there? A lot of people EVEN mazda trix say(tech advisor) this is OK and the car will run fine but i am concerned for the life of my turbo. If the pressure is low at idle wont THAT KILL THE TURBO??

Any ones thoughts? Please....

drft_180sx

Thermowax Oil Bypass Pellet sounds like the problem..

See, that allows oil to bypass the rotor bearings or something when the motor is cold, and as the motor heats up, it is supposed to close off the bypass passage. But when the pellet goes bad, the bypass passages stay open, causing low oil pressure. One solution is to get the solid Pellet at atkinsrotary.com and that will fix your oil pressure problems and is not gonna break ever again!

I've been doin a search for the last hour, and i have the same exact symptoms as you...and that's the answer i got from my searching...

KEYWORD: Low oil pressure....the second or third thread (Uh O low oil pres....) was very helpful with lots of links and good info

Jahan

Noel Caraballo

iTrader: (2)

oil pressures change accorrding to temperatures, when you start it up its always going to be high, try a new pump, install a mechanical gauge too, they are never wrong

captainpegs

I had a mechanical gauge be about 20lbs off, actually. Then it broke and I had about 2 quarts on my freak'n footwell carpet! this doesn't sound like a gauge problem to me though.

Wankel7

PLEASE say these readings are with an aftermarket gauge.

When you blocked off the oil metering pump. Did you also remove the gear and shaft inside the front cover?

How tight did you tighten the four bolts holding the oil pump in?

James

MrFC3S

same here... but not sure about it... sure there are no visual leaks? does anyone know how to replace that sucker?(thermo pellet)

jgrts20

o-ring replacement where do you get one of those, my oil was just changed and thats when my oil pressure gauge started acting up. Im still gonna get after market gauges though.

hIGGI

iTrader: (7)

worn main bearings and rotor bearings, as well worn out oil pump will cause low oil pressure.....

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

What is the deal with removing the gear and shaft in the front cover got to do with it? I never did remove those, never heard off having to remove that.

Bypass pellet is good, brand new.

I sure as hell hope it isn't the bearings, the guy I got the engine from just had it rebuilt in Japan by a rotary shop pro, so they should be good unless they re-used them. It was the guys drag engine, only used for drag racing. Story is that when he was getting the car tuned on the dyno at that rotary shop, the dyno computer failed and it caused his engine to blow( I imagine the wideband or maybe something else, never been to a dyno though) . The owner of the shop felt bad so he rebuilt it for free. I know the previous owner and he is legit, wouldn't screw me over. so i think...

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

So what IF it is the main bearings, how long will the engine last? How about the life of the turbo with such low pressure at idle? Just got this engine and I am seriously getting burned out.(fourth engine in 3 years; one siezed due to bad oil seals, 2nd was a shitty take out, 3rd was blown apex seal and was my fault) Got to love rotarys!

hIGGI

iTrader: (7)

where are u measuring pressure and what gauge?

fcdrifter13

Id say shim that pellet, that and the AWS(i think thats the acronm) were the worst ideas ever.

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

the what? pellet wouldn't cause that much pressure drop, would it?

fstrnyou

my problem is similar, 60lbs at startup, roughly 35-45lbs while driving(depending on oil temps) and it looks to be around 15lbs or so at idle. i was going to replace the o-ring this week but decided against it. i'm going to check my pressure with an aftermarket gauge first. fortunately for me, my eccentric shaft doesn't use a thermal pellet.

i was told it could be any number of things, like worn main bearings, worn rotor bearings, o-ring, thermal pellet, oil pressure sender, oil pump.
i've also heard that the oil pumps hardly ever go bad. if the pressure regulator fails, it's usually in a way that oil pressure is too high.

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

u sure your gauge isnt wrong?? try turning the key to the on position with out the car runnin and see if the guage is setting at zero when the pressure is really zero, that might tell if your gauge is just way off

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you dont need to remove the OMP drive gear, in fact if you do remove it you lose some of your oil pump drive chain lubrication(the roll pin acts as an oil squirter).

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

Again I have replaced the regulator, the control valve, the o-ring. The pump is only in question since I never instaleed it or removed it. The pellet is from my old engine and it worked fine then so I might shim it just for ***** and giggles. I am taking a manual reading today so I will keep youy postes.

Oh, my pressure is at almost 0 at idle after warm up, scary ****!

If it is the bearings that sucks but i didn't find any debris in the filter and the bottom of the pan and the screen on the screen f the return neck. Wouldn,t i find bearing pieces somewhere? I find it eventually, and will DEFINITY let you guys know.

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

You still have not answered the biggest question of all, are you using the stock oil pressure gauge or an aftermarket mechanical one????

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

10 bucks says the stock one

FC3MAN

I'd get an aftermarket guage,for sure or remove te stock sending unit and put a real pressure guage on it, before you take it bck apart. and i dont run a themal pelet eiter its just anoter thing that can cost you an engine in the long run

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

Stock guage. I know "super inaccurate". Pressure test tomarrow. Has anyone ever encountered this with all the parts I have already replaced?

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Point that matters here is you don't even know what your oil pressure is. If you put a mechanical guage on there and it says its fine, chances are you wasted all your time doing all those repairs...

jgrts20

As you know I have the same problem, started after my oil was changed. As I said earlier my new gauge is on the way will be receiving them on Wednesday. Im guessing its the gauge so thats where im starting at, then I will go from there. I will keep you guys posted also.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You are measuring this with the stock gauge?! The senders are notorious for failing and producing the readings you are experiencing.

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

OK, I did the manual reading and it was the SAME reading. Normal when first started up but when the engine warmed up I was reading 10PSI at idle and about 40PSI at above idle. I have recently put a clean sheet metal pan underneath my car after shut down to see for any leakage. What I have found is a small amount from the rear housing coming from the flywheel "peak"plate at the bottom of the tranny, it was removed and I found engine oil collecting on it. BUT IT ISNT A MAJOR LEAK, would this cause the drop? Again I have just replaced about everything.