iluvrx7z

I've posted these same problems a few times, I've taken the advice of my fellow rotor heads but still am stumped. I REALLY need to get this car fixed...

Here they are:

Car has a high but steady idle. When started with car in gear (disabling the cold start) it starts @ 750, then will climb up to somewhere in the neighborhood of 1500-1600, but steady.

Second under boost I can hear a leak, I have tried for weeks to hunt it down but I can't seem to find it at all. Yes I have checked the trouble areas ie TID and I have new gaskets installed uim-lim.

Third the TPS seems like it takes a LONG time to "heat up" When the car is cold it reads about 1.5-1.6V, then it won't go down to 1.0V untill the car has been warm for a LARGE amount of time. But eventually it does get to 1.0V.

Third, and this is a new one, when the car is running, usually idleing for 5 minutes it starts to beep at me. I know this is usually PS related and the FAQ has some info on it, but its not a certain number of beeps pause repeat, its just beep after beep. However when I start to drive it goes away and the car steers as normal...

Please any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been working on this car for so long I just want to enjoy it. Thanks!

Dan

P.S. Here are current theories, please remember they are only theories, I've been trying to hunt these problems down for a LONG time...btw these are in no particular order:

1)TPS

2)BAC -reason I say this is because the connector for some reason doesn't like to go on how it used to, the pipe coming off of the turbo kinda sits in the way of the connector, however it does slide on, I just don't trust the BAC for some reason...

3)ACV

P.S.S. 87 TII

Amur_

Have a look for some interesting TPS info.


Get your 7 warmed up, disconnect the TPS, set the idle (remember to use the jumper) and then see if you still have your problem on your next cold start...


Btw, I prefer to set my TPS by resistance, not volts. Have you done it by resistance to see if there's any improvement?

iluvrx7z

I have done it by resistance, I think HAILERS said it was better to do it by volts over resistance though?? But I'll whip out the meter and see what it says anyway.

I guess I can give the TPS a shot, I didn't know the car would run with it not connected...Any other ideas?

Dan

hugues

The tps can be adjusted only when engine is hot so that the fast idle thing is out of the picture. IF you get 1.0V when engine is hot, tps is properly adjusted.

For your high idle, I don't know, it would be good to go back to basic and adjust as per fsm.
Could be vacuum leak or bad BAC or bad signal to BAC.

Check the voltage that the BAC is getting while idling with no accessories on, should be close to 12V (set multimeter to DC voltage). When you turn accessories, the voltage should decrease slightly. this tells you the ECU to bac signal is ok.
You could also turn some acc on, and unplug the BAC, the rpm should drop pretty good.

Also, check you charging system and grounds if you can't seem to be able to set idle properly and check for vacuum leaks that are hidden (like leaking diaphragms in ACV and EGR)

Hugues -

iluvrx7z

I'll check the voltage at the BAC when I get home.

I did try having the car idle, turn on the A/C, and unplugging the BAC...Nothing, no idle change.

Then I turned off the A/C, plugged the BAC in again, then unplugged it and turned on the A/C again, nothing, no idle change what so ever, so I thought the BAC might be the culprit.

I do think I have a leak somewheres I can hear it under boost, the idle is high, I first attributed it to the leak but its dead solid...

I just ordered an ACV block off plate, so hopefully when installed I can eliminate it as a source...

Dan

hugues

What happens when you just unplug the BAC at idle (with no electrical on, no AC on), do the rpms drop a bundle (from your high idle to like 700 rpms or lower) ?

If yes, the BAC or ecu to bac is acting strange or your idle speed is not set right at all.

If nothing happens, then you have:
a major vacuum leak
throttle plates are open too much
and it has nothing to do with BAC.

You see, with an idle so high, the BAC is probably useless anyway. the BAC makes sense only if your idle is properly adjusted at 750 rpms as per fsm.

hugues -

iluvrx7z

When I just unplug it, nothing happens...

The car INITIALLY will idle at 750, then rise up,

Sometimes it will go down and sit @ 750 when the car is HOT but it usually doesn't stay and it goes to 750 maybe 5% of the time. Always initially on startup though, for maybe 3 seconds. Would a vacuum leak just come and go?

I thought it may be a vacuum leak but it'd have to be major so I don't know how I can't find it, I've checked the manifold, all the hoses, and the TID. I installed new injector grommets hoping that was it...nothing.

I was starting to think throttle plates, but don't know how it might have happened on its own....

This car is worrying me

Dan

hugues

I think it's worrying most of us.

it's not the BAC then.

maybe the turbo guys will have more ideas for you. You could check the diaphragm on the ACV if you think it's the ACV.

Hugues -

iluvrx7z

Man oh man does this car confuse the heck out of me...

I am gonna try to explain everything that just happened although it doesn't make sense to me so here goes.

Decide to take car for another test drive

Start it up, with car in gear, starts up to 750, then raises to 1400...ok normal (for my car)

Let it warm up a bit then go for a spin.

TPS reading 1.6V BTW

Drive it around, feels like its running ok, minus the leak I hear during boost.

Park in driveway, start looking around, go inside cockpit its now idleing @ 1900.

Give it gas, acts lumpy and crappy untill 3 grand where it just jumps back and forth untill 4 grand where it skyrockets and runs real smooth.

Put her in reverse, go to drive it, and it drives fine, EXCEPT that when I give it gas it hesitates and rpms drop 100 or so sometimes, then it goes up again.

So I am in the driveway now, give it a good rev and the idle drops down to 800 or so, sits there for a minute like its all good, then just up and decides to jump to 1300, but like the car thinks its supposed to be doing it, its hard to explain. But I rev it, and now it feels fine again, no lumpyness through the rev range.

Another WEIRD thing, my clock is always at 1:00 for some reason. It always told time before, I just set it for like 11:30 when I noticed it was off, then when I pulled the car into the driveway it was at 1:00 again!!!! WTF I was out for a half hour, and about 15 minutes after setting the clock.

This stuff is bothering me because its all new. I took the car apart a little over a year ago to start working on it, many unexpected things came up which made the process take way longer but all these idle problems and hesitations are all new, and really starting to bug me lol.

Any ideas?

Feel free to ask me to clarify anything because I know its odd...

Dan

Amur_

Forgot the link in my 1st post.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=216766


And don't worry about the clock. That's due to bad soldering and is not related to your motor probs.


I would be very interested to hear the results from setting your TPS by resistance. :nudgenudge:

iluvrx7z

I just got back home, had to help my friend out with his car which just suddenly blew its motor, don't worry though guys, its one less piston motor on the road

So I haven't gotten a chance to play with mine yet...But I did read your post Amur and it is MOST interesting. I definitely learned a lot.

Tomorrow I will get out and try to figure out the situation.

The clock however I have a hard time believing its the cold solder points because I redid them all.

Before it used to flicker but it always kept the right time. Now it is on all the time but never tells the right time, and this is new....

Dan