mszlazak

It has a new tps but I can't get it to idle.

I can start my 1988 non-turbo/standard RX7, it surges then stalls/stops. I can't start it again unless I wait a few minutes.

What would cause it to stall like this?

I had a small fire because of a leaky pulsation damper while the car was idling as I was working on it. I quickly put it out and replaced some burned hoses but it could idle OK.

Next day I plugged the PD with JD Weld, put back the alternator but when tried to start it up and all I got was it idling for a few seconds, surging then stalling. I have to wait a few minutes before I can get it to idle again but it repeats this behavior.

It's like something is turning that car off after a few seconds.

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

What do you mean you plugged the PD with JB weld?

Replace the PD, your problem is related to plugging it or a vac leak. You got a new intake manifold gasket right?

mszlazak

The screw fell out of the PD and gas was coming out of it's hole (ripped internal PD diaphragm). I stuck in a handy smaller screw in the screw hole so that it's head would cover the hole and allow the JB Weld to be applied around it on the outside of the PD, sealing the screw hole in the process. There probably was some JB Weld that go inside the PD through that hole initially. However,I don't see why this would cause problems since I effectively made the PD into a banjo bolt.

No more leaks.

I did not want to take the UIM off and replace the PD with a banjo bolt since it's to much work, I didn't have a gasket, read about the JB Weld fix on the net, and I only want this car functional for a few months.

However, you where right about the vacuum. I missed a burned and cracked vacuum hose. It's the top one of the three that are vertically situated at the top front of the fuel injector.

point-blank

iTrader: (9)

if it starts revs up a little then dies, check your afm

http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t=MVI_2875.mp4

if it does that it is likely your afm or the wiring to it

mszlazak

That is very close to my symptoms.

Also in the picture below, what is the white hose that's above the green one coming off the top front of the injector for? It is pictured going to a small cylinder object with three short ends to it. That's what got burn and broken. I may have to take the UIM off to replace it. Can I get away without it or plug that line. I really don't know what it's for and don't like the idea of taking off the UIM.




Thanks.

point-blank

iTrader: (9)

Honestly, I would pull the intake mani if you had a fire, you can get a UIM gasket for under $20 and it will really let you know what you are working with.

The hose you are referring to is the vacuum spider, it is critical for function of the Oil Metering Pump. If it is burned STOP DRIVING AND RUNNING YOUR CAR IMMEDIATELY UNTIL YOU FIX IT

The UIM is not too complex to take off, just make sure you are careful with the plugs, as some can break, and replace all of the vacuum lines (you can use non molded ones) and make sure you clean the gasket surfaces really well or you will have a vac leak

mszlazak

You were right in getting me to take off the UIM. There was more of a mess under there than I thought.

Not only are all the lines to and from the oil vacuum spider burned up but also the oil meter tubes are melted along with another vacuum line (the middle one of that vertical set of three off the top front of the fuel injector).

Question on the banjo bolt replacement for the PD. This page promotes a part

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/pd.html

I'm just wondering if I can get the same bolt from a local plumbing or hardware store like Orchard, Lowes or Home Depot. O'Reilly's/Kragen & Pep Boys don't carry that size. The local Mazda dealer parts guy said he has banjo bolts but doesn't sort them by size so he didn't know if he has the right one. I don't want to spend more money on a PD.

I'll probably return the TPS since I've ohm tested the old one again and it seems within limits and responds exactly like the new replacement. This is a table top test with the TPS off the car so there is no effect of heat or vibration if that matters.


Thanks.

point-blank

iTrader: (9)

No Problem man, you can rebuild your omp lines using this link,

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/rebuilding-omp-oil-injection-lines-348068/

I would test the specs for the AFM in the FSM, I am guessing the idle was due to the jumbo vaccum leak but i'd test the afm just to be sure

mszlazak

Thank you!

For the thread you referenced above on the oil lines, there is a difference in the way post #2 and post #23 shows the way they should be connected. I have a diagram attached that comes from the Mazda dealer and it corresponds to post #23.