I just tried taking out the air filter and examining the portal from the intake to the filter and there are no blockages or problems; still looks like new in there. Also, I tried starting the car with no air filter and it made no difference. My next step is to proceed and get the O2 sensor out to see if allowing exhaust to escape there makes anything easier as Satch suggested. Now, I found the silver colored cylindrical O2 sensor down below on the exhaust manifold on the passenger side. So much in the way to get a tool down there! Now there is a wire that comes out of the head and goes to an connector as you know. Does the special tool I will need allow for me to not have to destroy my O2 sensor and racket it put with the wire on the head remaining intact so I can sew it back in and reconnect the wire to its connector? Must be an interesting tool. Where to I get this tool? Seems like it would be hard to find. Any suggestions? David

 

An auto parts store, and there are two varieties with the deep socket version probably the best. And it's not the easiest sensor to remove. The ratchet will need an extender to reach down to the sensor, and you'll most likely need a metal pipe of length to slide over the ratchet handle for leverage purposes, and the longer the better.

 

Thanks Satch. I researched them already and I see several different kinds. I see an interesting long crows foot wrench and a number of kinds of ratchet ends that have 6 or 12 points. Would you know definitively the best kind I could get and the size I should use? I see the kind of ratchet ends that have the slot in them for the wire so you do not ruin the wire to the o2 sensor, but when I see the ones available at the auto parts store, what specs do I use so I buy the right one?

 

You want the six sided deep socket for there's less risk of it slipping like a multi point socket when removing something which requires high torque.

 

Got it great! Will get it soon. If in fact we find that there is a change when exhaust can escape through that port hole would you think there is a clogged cat? If so, what do you do about it? Have it replaced? And if so, is it possible to find the exact part I will need and is it a huge job as far as labor goes? Isn't there like 2 cats going from the exhaust manifold to where the exhaust splits to 2 pipes in the back? How does one know what to buy and replace? I would imagine it is very costly no?

 

I believe there are three cats overall. If you go about replacing it depends on if you have emissions to worry about. A new cat from Mazda would cost you close to the value of the car itself so an aftermarket one would be the way to go and you have to be choosy w/respect to which one you would select as some are plain garbage, and I don't know which are the good ones.

 

Thanks! I have been reading a lot about clogged cats on the Internet and so many of the symptoms people mention point to this as my issue! All the rocking and shaking when idling, the smell of burnt oil at times, and the smell at times of unburnt gas under the hood at times, etc. BUT, can the fact that the car does not want to start after being cranked so many times be a result of ONLY a clogged cat?

 

TRYING AGAIN:
Thanks! I have been reading a lot about clogged cats on the Internet and so many of the symptoms people mention point to this as my issue! All the rocking and shaking when idling, the smell of burnt oil at times, and the smell at times of unburnt gas under the hood at times, etc. BUT, can the fact that the car does not want to start after being cranked so many times be a result of ONLY a clogged cat?

 

it's something to rule out but usually difficult starting/slow revving issues point to the fuel system and engine first, since you said you did the compression test then the engine should be fine and i would think it is a fuel system issue. the only thing you haven't checked so far is the injectors themselves. since you have the tool you should check the exhaust for a restriction now and see if it improves.

this all assumes the compression test of the engine was done properly.

 

Thanks RotaryEvolution. I am waiting for the 02 sensor socket to come in to napa because they are impossible to find! I have a 3/8 socket ratchet and I have a 20 inch extension. Seems this is the only way to get to it. A few people told me to be very careful because many people have broken their o2 sensors trying to remove them so I want to be very careful. I ordered a deep socket version as Satch suggested with 7/8 inch socket with 6 sides. I want to be very careful. I was told if it is right to get PB Blast and blast any rust off of the joint where it is screwed on and scrap it and give it time to work then try the ratchet the next day. I hope to get this done over the weekend if the part comes in by then.
Thanks so much!

 

it's a good idea to hose it down with some rust penetrant like PB blaster and let it soak in overnight before trying it. if it's never been replaced it will be on there...

 

UPDATE for RotaryEvolution and Satch. I had to order the exact deep socket that fits the o2 sensor from napa and it took 5 days to come in. I did not pick it up yet and may do so today. I did not play with the car for a good 5 days and I thought I would try to start it and I just did and it cranked and with a little gas I got it to start. I did not rev it but just keep the rpms at 1000 for 10 minutes. I put something on the gas to hold it at 1000 rpms and got out of the car and inspected the usual white smoke from both exhausts that continued longer than normal! I went over to the 02 sensor and remember I mentioned that after I let it warm up and stay stationary I noticed a light billowing smoke coming up from the back of the engine.....well I localized it to coming out of the area around the o2 sensor so this MUST MEAN ALREADY that we have a clogged cat. Am I correct? Btw there is an area around the area that the o2 sensor is screwed into that is naturally allowing a connection between the exhaust manifold and the ambient outside air....the way Mazda designed that area where the 02 sensor screws into. So, shall I even bother removing the o2 sensor or shall I now be on my persuit to what to do regarding by in a new cat? Advise me because the whole picture of a rumbling exhaust, white smoke, hard to idle, smoking coming out of the o2 area seems to point to that.what do you think? Then you guys have to help me with what to buy as far as a cat goes because I do not know where to start? People tell me I have 3 cats in line with one another? So what on Earth so I do? I am lost to know what to buy and to be sure it is right for fit, NJ emissions, and if I bought everything I need for the mechanic to have all he needs to I install what needs to be installed for this problem to go away.

 

Addition to the above: can a clogged cat make a car hard if not impossible to start in and of itself as the only issue with the car?

 

^

 

Hi, Thanks as I did get this message from last week. I guess I should get the tool from napa you are saying and take out the o 2 sensor and see what happens. Correct?

 

yes

 

Hi RotaryEvolution and Satch! I got the correct tool today and carefully and effectively removed the o2 sensor. I have almost a quarter a gallon of gas in the car as I just put about 4 gallons in. I have been trying to start it, but no luck. Cranks but does not want to start. The car smells like gas in side and out side. When I start it sometime today or tomorrow I will tell you what transpires. If one or several of the fuel injectors are clogged and not operating to standard could this cause the inability to start, the start and then inability to idle and then stall as it always did, and NOW the smell of gas more prevalent than ever now that the o2 sensor hole is opened?

 

yes, if one injector is not firing it will be very difficult to start and tend to flood out the one working chamber. faulty ignition will do the same but usually clears up after a few minutes of run time.

 

Thanks for the reply. I figured I would remove the EGI fuse and crank like 10 seconds for maybe 3 times and still after trying to start after replacing the EGI fuse NO START, just cranking and the smell of GAS under the hood is terrible. Shall I still try a few more times to see if I can get it started over the next day or 2 with the o2 sensor out and see what it does to idling OR can it be that as time is going by that every time I get it running it is making the injectors even less effective and flooding the engine on attempted starts and it am never start again unless I attack those injectors? What are your thoughts at this point?

 

Try using the starter fluid w/the Circuit Opening Relay unplugged. Get it to start, dies out, same thing again, it will die out again,replug the relay, try to start it normally.

 

Concise BUT not for an amateur like me. I do it understand what to do. Where and what is the circuit opening relay and how do I unplug it? What does it do? Once, I unplug it you are saying to shoot starter fluid into the air intake in the very front middle of the car and then try to start it several times and let it die. Then you are saying to replug in this circuit opening relay and it should start? Of course, I am leaving the o2 sensor out because our whole initial goal was to see what happened upon running with that port hole opened for exhaust.

 

Post #35 has the link of what it looks like (and its located under the dash and just to the right of the steering column). Unplug it. 1 to 2 seconds of starter fluid. Start the car and it will run for a very short period of time. Repeat the same thing. Followed by replugging the relay. Try to start the car normally.

 

In that post from 2007 is the post #3 first photo the INTAKE where you want me to spray the starting fluid? And in post #5 and #6 of that 2007 post, which Exactly shows the relay you are referring to?

 

The age of the post is irrelevant as nothing has changed in these cars since. Post #3 pic #1 shows the intake duct where the spray goes. Post #11 in the same link tells you what you need to know about the relay as sometimes it's actually necessary to look at the information presented to find the info you need. Might it take a few moments? Yes, but it's your car.

 

Thanks Satch...will attempt over the next few days!