Starting Rebuild Tomorrow
05-27-02, 03:54 PM
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Starting Rebuild Tomorrow
Ok, I go to pick up my newly street-ported block tomorrow morning. Which means by 8pm tomorrow night, I should be elbow deep in 13B fun. So, I wanted to ask if anyone had tips, warning's, etc. I have the factory service manual downloaded and printed. But some things I don't have. Like an adiquate engine stand. ( Anyone have measurments of the plate that pineapple racing sells? I can drill out a plate pretty quickly )
Someone said a great way to keep the apex's in was a rubber band around them. And to use a lot of Vaseline. Any other tips like that?
Also, does it matter which way you put the apex seals in? I'm doing 2pc. and I thought to even out the wear, to flip them over from where they were. But, I hear they gain compression as the apex wears the housing...
Tips, and Answers appreciated.
Someone said a great way to keep the apex's in was a rubber band around them. And to use a lot of Vaseline. Any other tips like that?
Also, does it matter which way you put the apex seals in? I'm doing 2pc. and I thought to even out the wear, to flip them over from where they were. But, I hear they gain compression as the apex wears the housing...
Tips, and Answers appreciated.
05-27-02, 04:11 PM
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After thinking for 5 minutes, I realized I'm a dumbass... could someone measure the distance between the A/C adapter studs so I know how far apart to drill?
05-27-02, 05:35 PM
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Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Well, for the adaptor, I made my own from a piece of 3" channel iron. 4' would work too, but the 3" flexes just a bit. I welded one side of it onto the existing engine stand bracket, and drilled out holes in the other side.Be sure when you do this that you allow for balance of the engine once assembled...the mount has to be offset to the bottom so as you stack the engine together the intermediate housing swinds up being centered to the engine stand rotation. IF you dont, it'll suck when you go to maneuver it and install all the external stuff.
As for engine assembly, the key is clean. I use hylomar, a blue/purple sticky substance available at autozone etc. with the sealant tubes. It is like sealant but never hardens or dries, and is super sticky, so it holds **** together...just dab some on what you want to stay put and it does pretty well. You wont need anything, other than a bit of hylomar(which I dont even ned to use anymore) to hold the apex seals in...I turn the engine so its facing a 45* downward slant, so I have more control over the rotor as it falls in, and Ive nevr had a problem holding apex seals in place. IF anything, its the side seals that want to come out of their slots, and its hard to see since its ont eh side facing away from you. Ive heard of peole using rubber bands on apex seals,but it isnthard. They sit about 10mm down inside the rotor slot, so theyre not going anywhere. IF you have the FSM then youre set.
Oh, one word of advice. The first time I read that FSM adn went to *do* the job, it made no sense. IT says to install the rotor, then the housing over top of that. Well, do it opoposite that...install the housing and dowels on the front plate, *then* slide the rotor down inside there...much easier.
As for engine assembly, the key is clean. I use hylomar, a blue/purple sticky substance available at autozone etc. with the sealant tubes. It is like sealant but never hardens or dries, and is super sticky, so it holds **** together...just dab some on what you want to stay put and it does pretty well. You wont need anything, other than a bit of hylomar(which I dont even ned to use anymore) to hold the apex seals in...I turn the engine so its facing a 45* downward slant, so I have more control over the rotor as it falls in, and Ive nevr had a problem holding apex seals in place. IF anything, its the side seals that want to come out of their slots, and its hard to see since its ont eh side facing away from you. Ive heard of peole using rubber bands on apex seals,but it isnthard. They sit about 10mm down inside the rotor slot, so theyre not going anywhere. IF you have the FSM then youre set.
Oh, one word of advice. The first time I read that FSM adn went to *do* the job, it made no sense. IT says to install the rotor, then the housing over top of that. Well, do it opoposite that...install the housing and dowels on the front plate, *then* slide the rotor down inside there...much easier.
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