Jesturbo

OK, this may be a bit long, but I know there are a million reasons a rotary might not start, so I want to lay out the facts in the hopes that maybe someone can point me in the right direction...

87 Turbo II, removed Rats Nest, blockoff on EGR and ACV, still has BAC. I've checked and double checked all vacuum lines, there are no leaks and nothing not hooked up. The only remaining vacuum solenoid is the twin scroll valve.

4 weeks ago, the car (after having the secondary butterflies, EGR, and ACV removed) started and ran fine until an o-ring on the front rotor primary injector gave up the ghost, flooding the top of the motor with gas. I recognized it, shut off the car, and ordered new seals, o-rings, etc. At the same time, I had a sticking throttle problem, so I removed the intake (knowing I'd need to get at the primary injectors) and took the TB off to remove the fast idle cam (this turns out to be the problem, as it was hitting the regular post for the throttles and sticking)...since I did that, no sticking throttle, and I replaced the o-rings etc and put it all back together. Now it won't start...turns over no problem, and I do get a bit of smoke/exhaust (grey, not white) from teh tailpipes after I turn it over a few times, but it won't fire. I have confirmed spark, replaced all 4 plugs, and after a brief test, found that there was a pretty good amount of fuel/oil mixture on the plug after trying to start the car, so the fuel delivery doesn't seem to be the problem. I've tried just about every position on the BAC idle speed adjustment, but I have no idea if this could be a factor or not, nor do I know which way to turn the screw for more or less air (logic would dictate counterclockwise to allow more air, but I can't find anything in the craptacular Haynes manual to confirm this)...are there any other areas I can check (i.e. what voltage output should the TPS be as it sits etc) for potential mixture problems. At first I was worried it might be due to the removal of the cold start system, but then I realized that it had run fine without it until the o-ring died, so I'm less inclined to look at that. Is it possible for the throttle itself to be out of spec and be allowing either too much or too little air at idle? I would think that too little would be the culprit since it won't start at all.

Also, even after sitting for over a week since I last tried to start it, could flooding be a problem (the plugs are absolutely wet when I removed them after a quick check to start) and if so, do I remove the lead or trailing plugs to best relieve it?

I appreciate all help, my condo commandos are starting to leave me nasty notes and I just plain have to get this piece of junk running!

neptuneRX

This is just a thought, but could it be your distributor cap?

Jesturbo

I'd be shocked since it's one of the few things I haven't touched, and it ran previously. I have a new battery in the car now, and I do have spark with no problem (though I haven't verified that the timing is right, I'd have to assume it's OK since I haven't changed or even gotten near it since I did the o-rings and fixed the TB)

Jesturbo

OK, TPS seems to be set properly, reading voltage of .94-.96 at closed throttle (damn car won't run so I can't test it 'warmed up' per se) so I'm damn stumped. I tried the 'start it at WOT' suggestion of some, but still no luck. Perhaps this is an idiot talking, but is there a possibility that 'old gas' could cause such a problem? The car has been sitting a while, but this seems a bit ridiculous to me since it ran less than a month ago. I also verified that the throttle plates are in proper position as it sits. I'm just ready to cry at this point, I've had the damn car for 4+ months now, and the only frickin time it's run has been on teh trip from where the f-in truck dropped it off to my house. Even on that trip the idle was so bad I had to keep my foot in it every time I clutched to keep it from stalling...

Does anyone have suggestions here, I'm ready to dump this POS

Jesturbo

OK, after a million articles read, the starting thing WAS flooding, but I just wasn't cranking the bastard enough with the EGI fuse removed, so now it starts, but only for about 5-10 seconds, of REALLY erratic idle (i.e. bucking out of balance so bad that the whole car is shaking). After that it slowly dies. Hitting the gas kills it, so I'm afraid it may still be a flooding issue. I am going to try a few more 'dry' runs with the EGI fuse out, just in case the plugs are really wet, but does this sound reminiscent of anything to anybody out there with more experience on these things?

rexman13b

iTrader: (7)

it kinda sounds like your air flow meter is unplugged. they'll start sometimes without it plugged up but as soon as you touch the gas it will die. hope this helps.

rexman13b

iTrader: (7)

oh and it could be running on one rotor,since the damn thing is bucking like a bronc. that means it could be blown up. pull the plugs and turn it over with the egi fuse and injector fuse out. there should be 6 even whooshes if both rotors have compression but if it doesn't sound like that you might have lost an apex seal.

anobii

I just did the tb mod also, and had a bastard of a time getting it started after it was done. i ended up having to take the upper intake back off for three busted o-rings on the injectors. It takes a long time to get the gas out of the engine. I had to pull the plugs several times and blow air into the holes to get it to fire. If its trying to run and its that rough, it may be running on the front rotor, and not the back, or vise versa, due to the plugs being fouled. if it would run before, and rev up it's probibly just missing like mad now because of the extra fuel. if you can get it running, even if it's running really bad, keep it running as long as you can. as the engine warms up it will evaporate the fuel in the fouled portion of the engine quicker and the plug will begin to fire. As for holding the throttle wide open with the egi fuse in place im not for sure but i think the s4's didnt have a fuel cut off switch like the s5's do, so in essence if you hold the throttle open it's throwing the fuel to match the air. there may be a way to shut the fuel off and still fire the plugs, does any one know? if it does smooth out and the engine warms up, it's probibly not gonna idle very good until you set the tps and the bac ( which i dont know how to set either, crappy haynes manual). keep at it man, and tell those condo commies to **** off. Good luck, hope this helps.

devius

after i changed the o-rings on my car. there was a problem with the plugs to the primary injectors. they had slipped out of the boot and that was causing my erratic idle. check to make sure they are snug and in properly.