thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

well i got my motor back together adn back in the car. but the damn thing wont start. it just craanks and cranks and cranks. the only way i have been able to actually get it to start is to pull the spark plugs out and stick oil into the holes., but that seems kinda like a lot of work to do everytime i try to start it.
is there any easier ways? or am i stuck with the oil trick to get it to start?

ryder2489

could be flooded

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

oh really? that never crossed my mind......
but if you read anything i typed last time you would see im aware that it is flooded.

ryder2489

timing?

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

ok so the timing is al great and all that jazz. when trying to start the car all it does is cranks and cranks and cranks. doesnt even act like it wants to start

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

so no help at all? sucky deal man,. guess ill go mess with it some more..

funkjaw

iTrader: (3)

Is the engine a complete rebuild?

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

no. somewhat of a overhaul i'd say. um got it to start. seems the ground to the ecu is important, but still not sure what the deal is with the hard starts. it just floods out like no other. have to do the oil thing every damn time,. not sure why

LunchboxCritter

iTrader: (9)

I would suggest a compression check.

calpatriot

Also check the water thermo sensor; an open circuit there will often cause the ECU to believe you are starting in arctic temperatures, and provide too much fuel -- flooded start.

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

did a compression test, it was ~100psi on the front and ~115psi on the rear. the water thermo sensor is plugged in, although i might have the wires mixed up. damn plug was busted so i had to replace it.
but idk this thing is really gettin on my nerves. all it does is damn flood!!!

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

ok so kinda curious if adding in a fpr would be a good idea? i need to do soemthing to stop it from gettin so much damn fuel all the time!

calpatriot

OK, if you are not sure the WTS is hooked up right, get down to the ECU and backprobe the connector pin for the WTS, and check the voltage there against the values in CH 4 of the FSM for your car. There are values there for both ignition on/not running, and running/at temp.

If you have any history of having to monkey with the WTS wiring, it is a high priority pace to look and make sure the ECU is getting the right signal. If it is not, that may be the source of your flooding.

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

ah thank you! willl do that first thing in the morning. could i just test it at the plug on the w/p housing rather than dismantling the interior to look at the ecu?