Hey all, i'm trying to put a turbo trans in my 88 GXL. i'm keeping my n/a lightwheight flywheel, and ordering the racing beat 6 puck race clutch disk that adapts the cluth disk to accept the turbo II input shaft. my question is now do i use an N/a starter or a turbo starter. keep in mind that i will be using a flywheel from an N/a.

any help would be great.

 

I don't think the turbo trans and N/A flywheel will work together...

 

Wrong

The flywheel needs to be matched to the transmission. TII Flywheels have a larger diameter. The N/A starter in a TII trans will probably do some damage and make a lotta noise.

 

You cannot use a N/A flywheel with a TII trans. The TII flywheel is wider and if you installed the starter it wouldn't even make contact with the N/A flywheel. Any way you look at it you are going to have to install a TII flywheel. Just make sure it matches the series. And FYI an auto starter is interchangeable with a TII starter.

 

look, if racing beat sells a clutch disk thats 225mm for an N/A size pressure plate and flywheel, with a input shaft size to accept a turbo trans input shaft, how do they start the motor. what is different about the two starters? or is it the casting of the bell housings that places the starter farther away from the center of the engine?

 

In order to use the NA Flywheel with a TII Transmission you will have to modify the bell housing of the TII transmission. One of the bolt holes will have to be relocated and part of the starter opening will have to be enlarged.

The TII starter will not engage the NA flywheel and the NA starter will not fit a TII transmission.

You are better off using a TII flywheel with the correct clutch.

Also from Racing Beats website the 225mm clutch disc listed is for a Turbo Flywheel and Turbo Transmission.

225mm Disc w/turbo spline - 6 puck
(for use with 1987-91 turbo flywheel and 87-91 turbo transmission)
Race Clutch Disc

I recently had the same dilemma and went with a Fidanza Flywheel for a Turbo.

 

do you know if anyone has done a writeup for using a n/a flywheel in a turbo trans?

 

Just use a TII flywheel. You will spend more time just trying to find out a way to do it rather than just taking off one bolt and swapping out the flywheel.

 

you cant. you need the flywheel to match the trans. (as everyone else has already said) IF (and this is a big IF) you had the money, time, and serious machining/fab skills, you COULD rig it up. but the second it broke, youd have to fab up something again, as opposed to just getting the replacement part.

 

I have access to 3 fadal cnc's, and a cnc lathe. its the buisness i'm in, thats why i'm interested. doing a modification this extreme is perfectly within my means. and probably cheaper than spending like 5 bills on a turbo 2 clutch/flywheel setup.

 

plus i'm trying to keep rotational mass as light as possible. a light turbo II flywheel still weighs 12 lbs. mine weighs 9lbs.

 

If you already have an aftermarket flywheel than you should already have a mazda auto counterweight. Spend $225 on an ACT 9 lb turbo flywheel and be done with it. If all this fab and modifying is well within your means than you shouldn't be asking people about using the wrong parts. How many hours upon hours upon hours are you going to waste trying to make the wrong parts work? Is it worth $225? Not to mention I sold my N/A flywheel for about that.

& nice job DSMRX7 - smooth edit

 

look man i don't need a bunch of people telling me what i should do, i just asked if it was or could be done by any reasonable means. i'll probably just end up waiting around and trying to find an n/a tranny.

also just the flywheel is like 225 i still have to buy a clutch disk, pressure plate and a turbo starter.so that means it'll be like 7 bills and thats not even including the price of the trans itself. my car's already out of commission i might as well come up with something sick. i got all the time in the world.

 

Again - NO - it can't really do done by any reasonable means. But if you're as skilled as you say you are; why even bother asking - just do

That logic holds absolutely ZERO value with me. You said you already have the trans and the disc. You're running N/A I'm assuming so you don't need some sick sick PP to hold the torque. You'd be looking at a new flywheel, a new PP, and a starter. MOST of it not all of can be had second hand. So I ask again - How do you value your time? Then ask yourself how much in parts you'll be looking at spending. $225 for a fly, $150 for a nice SS PP, and ~$25 for a used starter. So now you're into it for $400 - how much can you sell your N/A fly for? Now you're into it for prob about $250 in parts. Personally I value my time @ what I can charge for whoring myself out - $75-$100/HOUR. Can I fit an N/A starter on a TII trans and make it fit & work RELIABLY in 2.5 hours? Probably not - so I'm going to buy the parts.

 

You really sound like you have no idea what you are doing...

Why are you insisting on doing it the hard way?

If you have access to such expensive equipment, it should be a piece of cake to make a little more money to get the right parts, right?

Why would you want a super light flywheel on a turbo car?
It's not an NA application, and the same rules do not apply.
This is why you almost never see an aluminum flywheel for turbo applications.
Racing Beat does NOT recommend it...for a reason...

Since you're insisting on doing this your way, why don't you get a used stock turbo flywheel and machine the **** out of it, since you like to flaunt your prowess with such machining equipment.
You do know what you are doing right?
Used turbo flywheels are like a dime a dozen on here...


-Ted

 

I bought a Complete TII Clutch kit for ~$400 new. Came with Fidanza 8.5lb Flywheel, Exedy Clutch, Exedy PP, New TOB. Bought a Counterweight from Mazda Comp. $100

Starter from Orielly's is about $65.

I looked seriously at modifying the housing on mine but decided that doing it the correct way was going to be safer and better than cutting up a bell housing.

 

So you have the skills and the equipment to do this type of mod but, your asking us on here to tell you how to do it? Kind of contradictive in my opinion.

 

Well the TII flywheel is larger than the N/A, so if you would use the N/A flywheel in a TII tranny, the starter wouldn't even come close to hitting the flywheel to start it. If you are putting a TII tranny on, get the flywheel, counterweight, and clutch to fit the TII. Otherwise, you are SOL.

 

"Special" Race --
For 83-92 225mm clutch using 86-92 Turbo Trans

This part is listed on mazda trix's site.

http://mazdatrix.com/f86-92nt.htm

Under the clutch disc section.

My advice to you would to be to contact mazdatrix about it since obviously no one here knows about it. My guess though is you would need an NA starter.

 

Don't you think it would be easier if someone has already done a writeup for me to just look at that and do it. why would i spend like 30 hours coming up with a way to do it when some one already spent all that time and effort. if all you have to make is a bracket than all i need are the dimensions and i can cut one out. I'm just trying to fix my car not pioneer how to use an n/a starter in a turbo trans.

you never know what people are capable of so why just talk **** on someones forum post. it doesn't help anyone.

 

I was gunna call racing beat and ask on monday but i just found an N/A trans for like $70 from a buddy. thanks to all of you that actually added constructive information. i'll probably post what i find out about it on monday, i'm still gunna call cuz i'm curious.

 

There is no bracket. I just went through this a couple of weeks ago and the only solution is to hack up the bell housing. I called Mazdatrix, I called Racing Beat. No go. The only difference is I was usinga 215 instead of 225 clutch disk.

There is a 3/4 inch difference in size between the two flywheels. No write up exists for how to do this because there are better ways that don't invovle hacking up a transmission.

Glad you found a NA transmission. Hope that holds up. I have broken 4 transmissions and two Diffs in my NA car doing AuotX, Track Days, Drags and street driving. It is usually the Drags that damages the part and then another day when it finally breaks. That is why I switched to the TII driveline.