Stalling while driving??HELP
06-11-03, 10:54 PM
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Stalling while driving??HELP
hey i have a 87 N/A and for some reason on accasion it just starts stalling all the time for no reason. it does it when i press in the clutch and the rpms drop, usualy it will go to like 400 then fly to over 1000 then do that a few times then stall and sometimes it will just drop and stall. it usualy does it for like 3-4days then stops doing it and runs fine for a while then it will just start all the sudden. the last time it did this was like a month ago. also when starting cold sometimes it sits at 3k warming up then when the rpm's go down it stalls and other times i statr it and it just stalls. anyone have any clue what could be going on here. I would greatly appreciate it if someone helped me on this,
thanks
thanks
06-11-03, 11:25 PM
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Re: Stalling while driving??HELP
Originally posted by Rx-7Blazin
for some reason on accasion it just starts stalling all the time for no reason. it does it when i press in the clutch and the rpms drop, usualy it will go to like 400 then fly to over 1000 then do that a few times then stall and sometimes it will just drop and stall.
for some reason on accasion it just starts stalling all the time for no reason. it does it when i press in the clutch and the rpms drop, usualy it will go to like 400 then fly to over 1000 then do that a few times then stall and sometimes it will just drop and stall.
also when starting cold sometimes it sits at 3k warming up...
06-12-03, 12:05 AM
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i dont care about that i just care about it stalling after it tryes to warm up. i do have gutted cats if that could in anyway cause this. also that link is all about turboII's
Last edited by Rx-7Blazin; 06-12-03 at 12:09 AM.
06-12-03, 12:44 AM
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NA and Turbo idle control systems are basically the same. The info in that link is very good. If you have trouble finding stuff then download the FSM and study it (which you should've done already). Gutted cats would have no effect on idle.
06-12-03, 10:45 AM
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ok im just getting confused cuz its all about the TurboII model why doesnt anyone ever have writeups on n/a's the majority of rx-7's are n/a's meaning most the problems come from n/a's. i just find a lot of turbo writeups but not alot of n/a writeups. but also i have removed my power stearing so could it also not be running properly because of the air supply valve?? which controls the power stearing?
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06-12-03, 01:17 PM
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check www.1300cc.com
there are good write-ups in there. there is also one specific to cleaning out the BAC.
there are good write-ups in there. there is also one specific to cleaning out the BAC.
06-12-03, 01:27 PM
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Testing the BAC:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=116449
As for cleaning it, when I do it I just spray the inside full of carb cleaner and let it sit for 10-20 minutes, then drain it and repeat twice more, then spray the hell out of it with WD-40 to rinse it out...
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=116449
As for cleaning it, when I do it I just spray the inside full of carb cleaner and let it sit for 10-20 minutes, then drain it and repeat twice more, then spray the hell out of it with WD-40 to rinse it out...
06-12-03, 01:29 PM
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Originally posted by Rx-7Blazin
but also i have removed my power stearing so could it also not be running properly because of the air supply valve?? which controls the power stearing?
but also i have removed my power stearing so could it also not be running properly because of the air supply valve?? which controls the power stearing?
The p/s is belt driven, so I don't understand what you mean by an 'air supply valve' affecting things... ? Not having p/s shouldn't have any effect on your idle.
06-12-03, 04:31 PM
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Originally posted by Amur_
The p/s is belt driven, so I don't understand what you mean by an 'air supply valve' affecting things... ?
The p/s is belt driven, so I don't understand what you mean by an 'air supply valve' affecting things... ?
Not having p/s shouldn't have any effect on your idle.
06-12-03, 05:29 PM
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ok i cleaned the bac but havent driven it yet but it seems to be running smoother. what other things can i do to try and keep a steady idle?? i have now cleaned the BAC, removed the EGR, removed the power stearing, taken off the ac belt, and removed the cats. all this should help but its still rugh. it wont stay at 700 it goes from like 600-800 and misses alot causing the engine to jump. so what else could i do.
06-12-03, 06:26 PM
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ok i drove it and it still stalled (the firs time i decellerated) and then it didnt do it again but thats how it acts it does it off and on for no reason so the bac may have helped it idle a little smotther but it still stalls out
06-12-03, 07:49 PM
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Originally posted by Rx-7Blazin
ive tested it once but dont remember how. it was good before. any write ups?? if not where do you adjust it?
ive tested it once but dont remember how. it was good before. any write ups?? if not where do you adjust it?
Originally posted by Amur_
TPS:
I'd like to add some things...
- you are inserting the probes from the mutlimeter into the back of the TPS plug. Shove them right in there 'til they're snug and not going to fall out.
- up on the plug means with the tab 'up.'
- the TPS seems to be fussy (at least it is on my 7.) Set the TPS to 1 ohm, then slowly twist the throttle linkage to fully open and then back again. Now look at your multimeter. The reading is no longer 1ohm, is it? So set the screw again and then twist the linkage again. Keep doing this until it stabilizes. And try not to take more than 2 or 3 minutes. It doesn't take long for the TPS to cool off and if it's not hot your reading will be off. If you take too long, just reconnect the TPS and take her for a 10 minute spin before trying again.
TPS:
Originally posted by Nick86
Start the car, and warm it up well. Turn it off, and unplug the TPS. Now with a multimeter, measure the resistance between the top and right hand pins of the connector (the side attached to the TPS). The key is to turn the screw until you get 1 ohm. Once you do, open the throttle and you should have about 5 ohms. Plug it back in, and go for a drive. fter a bit, repeat the proceedure. It took me 3 or 4 times before I got 1 ohm with no throttle, and 5 at wot. Now, it runs perfectly and the resistance hasn't changed. Take a look at it again. Good luck,
Nick
Start the car, and warm it up well. Turn it off, and unplug the TPS. Now with a multimeter, measure the resistance between the top and right hand pins of the connector (the side attached to the TPS). The key is to turn the screw until you get 1 ohm. Once you do, open the throttle and you should have about 5 ohms. Plug it back in, and go for a drive. fter a bit, repeat the proceedure. It took me 3 or 4 times before I got 1 ohm with no throttle, and 5 at wot. Now, it runs perfectly and the resistance hasn't changed. Take a look at it again. Good luck,
Nick
- you are inserting the probes from the mutlimeter into the back of the TPS plug. Shove them right in there 'til they're snug and not going to fall out.
- up on the plug means with the tab 'up.'
- the TPS seems to be fussy (at least it is on my 7.) Set the TPS to 1 ohm, then slowly twist the throttle linkage to fully open and then back again. Now look at your multimeter. The reading is no longer 1ohm, is it?
So set the screw again and then twist the linkage again. Keep doing this until it stabilizes. And try not to take more than 2 or 3 minutes. It doesn't take long for the TPS to cool off and if it's not hot your reading will be off. If you take too long, just reconnect the TPS and take her for a 10 minute spin before trying again.
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