lnbrown5981

I have been having a hard time trying to find the speedbleeder sizing for the clutch slave cylinder. I know the brakes are 7mm x 1.0 rear, 8mm x 1.0 front, but does anyone know what is the size for the clutch slave cylinder?

Gasso

to bleed the clutch i believe its 8mm ....not too hard to reach back and fit something on there to be sure though

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

I think he's looking for the thread size of the bleed hole so he knows what speed bleeder to buy.

Inbrown...What car is it for? I'm not sure if all slave cylinders have the same hole spec.

I don't have one lying around. Any guys have a slave cylinder out of their car?

twister7

iTrader: (3)

Why do u even want one,,to make a mess all over the floor lol!!Any ways here is how i do it. Hook a clear plastic hose (vac line exctra)from the slave's bleeder valve (make sure it is a tight fit) going to the master and pump the peddle to cycle the air out, simple, easy, no mess !! Same thing as a speed bleeder it's just putting it back into the master instead of you're engine compartment!

Fault Bucket

WTF?? You think he'd just open the bleeder and pump the pedal without putting a line on it to capture the fluid?? Cycling the fluid back into the reservoir is kinda dumb...you want fresh fluid in there, not the crappy moisture-soaked black gunk that's likely there now.

I have one on my '89, though I can't recall the size.

-chris

RockLobster

iTrader: (7)

Why would you need to bleed clutch fluid that often. Not like you are boiling fluid and needing to replace it often as you would with brakes on the track.

Tanj!

iTrader: (5)

I've actually got a spare clutch slave sitting off the car from the transmission I just bought. I'm looking to do the same thing. I'll probably be shopping for maintenance parts this week and I'll see if i can't find out. The main benefit to me is being able to bleed the system by myself. I rarely can get an extra set of hands to work on the car. Plus the speed bleeders are much more friendly to use than a 1 man bleed kit that you loose all the parts to between using it.

twister7

iTrader: (3)

Wtf (lol) u think i would tell him to recycle the old??come on use some common since now!! Do it after u cycle the old out, i would think u would no not to use the old fluid if it was in as bad of shape as u described!!And u act like I am calling him stupid or something omg! The hole idea is to get air out!!! Not to have some shade tree btch at me for giving professional advice!

lnbrown5981

This is the exact reason I want a speedbleeder. For the convenience of being able to bleed the system without assistance. I already know how to bleed a hydraulic system I have been doing it for 5 years now. I think I will just see if i can find an old slave and measure the threads. I will post back with the results. Thanks for all the help guys.

scathcart

... because brake fluid in the clutch systems absorbs water just as readily as brake fluid in the brake system...?

Should change it about once a year to prevent corrosion to your master cylinder and your slave cylinder.

For size, IIRC, 7mm x 1.00, same as the rear brakes.

lnbrown5981

^ Yep, that's what I got.

Thanks

RockLobster

iTrader: (7)

It dosnt necessarlily need to be changed that often. Although it is easy, so why not.

I realize that the fluids absorb water the same, (being the same fluid). But the use and abuse of the fluid in the two systems couldnt really be more different. There is a lot more heat gain in the brake system especially under track use. I bleed/flush my brake fluid 8-10 times per year. Usually have to do it after every track weekend, sometimes once or twice DURRING the weekend. Although with m y new titanium brake shims, im hoping to avoid the at-the-track bleeding and just do it after events.

Boiling the fluid or heating it, rapidly accellerates the absorbtion of water and the breakdown of the fluid. Further the volume (and thus system area) of the brake system is far greater than the hydraulic clutch system, thus more mosture absorbtion and contamination.

So, especially for tracked cars, the life expectency of the fluid in the two systems couldnt be more different. Speed bleeders work great for me in the brakes but i see no need to have it in the clutch system. My girlfriend is AT LEAST good for one pump bitch session per year.

TitaniumTT

Only once a year huh. I am a lucky guy. My wife has helped me bleed the brakes/clutch at least a 1/2 dozen times... on the Jeep recenetly too

Can someone please explain to me how speedbleeders make it a one person job? I would think that you still need too people

Tanj!

iTrader: (5)

Once the check valve on the speed bleeder has been opened you're free to car back inside the cabin and pump away. The check valve insures that no fluid/air is sucked back into the valve. It's basically a one way valve and that way is out. It's still nice to have the second person watching the fluid reservoir so you don't pump dry but I just figure out the max pumps and write that down on the reservoir so I remember.

TitaniumTT

Neat. Thanks. Is there anyway that valve can open and render your car brakeless?

RockLobster

iTrader: (7)

Not unless you drill it out. It works exaclty like regular bleeder valves in that when you close it, there is no way for fluid to leak. The only difference is, instead of an open tube when the bleeder is loosened there is a spring and ball check valve in there to allow fluid to only go one way, out.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

where can one obtain these speed bleeders? local parts store?

RockLobster

iTrader: (7)

Some napa's used to carry them but not usually the right ones and im not even sure if they carry them at all anymore.

I've ordered them from here in the past.

http://www.raceshopper.com/speed_bleeders.shtml

scathcart

I definitely agree on the bleeding interval for the track... but the majority of the people reading and posting in this section barely use the capabilities of the stock brakes, and the 1-year bleed interval works just peachy for them. These bleeders aren't necessarily designed for the track-car, either... they're designed for those looking for a fast and simple way to bleed brakes to a decent quality, just as they would for their clutch system. These are the same people who sturggle doing a two-man bleed with the stock system.
For racing purposes, fabricating or purchasing a pressure bleeder is the only way to go, in my opinion. With mounting pressure gauges in the brake lines, I found that pressure bleeding gave the most repeatable results between bleed sessions, with speed bleeders coming in second. If you've got an air compressor WITH A GOOD FILTER and a spare $5, there is no reason you shouldn't be pressure bleeding. Faster and better results.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

PepBoys carries 'em...amazingly enough- in the correct sizes for us as well.