87RX7TII

I've tried to set my tps buy the way of the thread "tps adjustment 101"
but I cant get a reading from the top plug and right plug unless the tps is plugged in.
I've read its supposed to be unplugged and tested while the key is on. ...
PLEASE correct me if any of this is not the case...

Sorry to keep bringing this up but im getting horrible gas mileage...

DerangedHermit

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=tps

That might help. I just hate linking to my own stupidity..

SureShot

There are three ways to set the TPS.

1) Use a test light setup as described in the FSM (with the engine hot).

2) Measure the signal output voltage (1 volt with the engine hot)

3) I unplug the TPS, pull off the fast idle cam & measure the Ohms (set to 1K).
And while I'm hooked up, I check the smoothness of the sweep in resistance value as the plunger travels in & out.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

what wires do you touch to measure the ohms??? be spacific, I'm a voltameter noob

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

anyone?

Rx7MPGUY84

TPS

i just replaced mine and set it and my car is still acting messed up.

WAYNE88N/A

Honda dude, since I like ya so much, I'm gonna let you in on a little secret- it's much easier, and more accurate as a means to an end, to check the TPS for its voltage output. Any TPS can be read for resistance and look perfect, but if the wiring is shot, the ECU is still not gonna get a good signal...When checking voltage, the readings are more stable on the meter- they don't "jump around" like resistances do...And, if you check the TPS at the ECU, not only do you adjust the signal to almost exactly what the ECU will see, but you check the entire TPS circuit at once, so you know everything's good once final adjustments are made.

So, get to your ECU, hook up a meter to the TPS input pin and ground (pin 2G on S4's- look in the FSM for pinouts), warm up the car to a 750 idle, and adjust to a 1 volt (plus/minus .1v) signal. You can also go for a drive and watch your TPS in action, to look for any "dead" spots if you wish. That's it. You're finished. Your TPS is now perfect...Leave it alone now...

rat39

Use the light method, I found it to be more accurate than the i ohm thing. Radio Shack, believe it or not, still has diodes. They even have ones with the 680ohm (?) resistor in it so it works with 12 volts. I will look for the procedure on my other computer if no posts it first. This method the car is warm and the TPS stays pugged in and you use the green test plug hiding down by the solenoids near the oil filler neck.

WAYNE88N/A

Test light method is great if you still have the rat's nest & emissions on the car. A lot of these guys don't. You need the relief and switching solenoid valves working properly to perform the test light gig...

rat39

uh-oh...in all of my reading and stupid question asking I have never read this. I removed the rats nest myself and my idle is still really rough, bouncing between 900-1000. It has gotten better as I play with.

Nevermind my post then, in fact I am going to do the 'check voltage at the ECU method' also.

WAYNE88N/A

I can speak from experience- I have adjusted the TPS in every way known to man, including the test lights, back when I had the rack & emissions on. I feel very confident when doing it at the ECU now, because like I said, I KNOW that the ECU is seeing that 1 volt, because it's right there at the pin. In fact, it was probably 9 months ago that I last adjusted it, and I haven't had to touch it since...

Just trying to help you guys get the best TPS signal you possibly can, not trying to argue the merits of different ways to test it

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

oh I know I"m with you, I did a crap load of searches and you did a very discriptive how to however I'm just looking for a crued way to check my old one while I am waiting for my plug wires to come in the mail however I just read the hanes manuel from cover to cover bored and looked at the trouble shooting guide and it showed that you have to put it on a and c and do the hole sweep motion thing. Anyways in that it also showed that with turbo cars you have to adjust the idle by way of bac not idle adjustment screw on tb. So they said this would cause hesitation and backfiring witch is exactly what I got after turning that screw. Wayne your the only man for the job how can I set it back to where it was or at least to where it won't do this any more??? Should I just trial and error it or is there a way to go back to factory specs??? Thanks

WAYNE88N/A

OK, you lost me there for a bit. We're still talking about TPS adjustment, right? Not idle adjustments at the BAC, at this point, anyway...

The beauty of doing this at the ECU is also apparent when you realize that you can do this with the key on also- the car doesn't have to be running, but you do need to make sure that the fast idle cam isn't holding your throttle open a little (like it does with a cold engine). Let's assume you "disabled" the fast idle cam, now, hook the meter to the TPS pin and ground, put the meter in the seat beside you, turn the key on, and push the gas peddle down. See the meter move? Pretty neat, huh? And if you have any dead spots in the TPS, you'll see those doing this, too, as long as you're not too fast with the peddle...

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

I don't think I have the fast idle cam anymore on this car because my car never goes to 3k. So the engine doesn't have to be hot to do this huh??? Cool! ANyways sorry about the part where I was talking about idle adjustment. Remember that thread about how when I took off the tb and put it back on my car was getting the 3800rpm hesitation??? well when I checked the hanes manual I found that if you mess with the idle adjustment screw it can cause this because your supposed to change the idle via the bac valve on turbos witch I did not know. SO do you think that would be causing my problem??? I"m thinking that is it being that it was working fine until I messed with it. WHat do you think??? Thanks again for the help wayne!

WAYNE88N/A

Well, since that's usually why our cars break (because of something WE did), sure, undo everything you did, lol...

The fast idle cam won't do the 3K thing, that's the ECU's job...If you start the car and she goes to about 1500 for a while, THAT'S the fast idle cam doing that...

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

lol especialy in my case that is true anyways my car doesn't rev to anything. Unless I'm on the gas for about 3 minutes my car will not idle. Also since I'm a voltameter dumby why settings on the voltameter do I set it to when testing the tps from the ecu??? Thanks.

edit: nevermind I just used 20dc and it swept from 1.12 to 4.46 now after adjusting I got it down to 1.08 but can't get it past that. Do I have to unscrew the idle adjustment screw to get it to go even further??? Or am I just way off on that one.

WAYNE88N/A

Sounds like you got a Fluke meter, lol...1.08 should be fine, in fact mine's set to about 1.1v, she seems to like that better than exactly 1.0v.

Dude, you gotta remember, if you're engine's not warmed up to the point that the fast idle cam is no longer hitting the linkage, your readings will be off- that's probably why you can't drop it past 1.08...I know you said you didn't have the fast idle system, but I don't believe you, lol...No reason whatsoever to take that off of your car...

4.46 sounds kinda high, also...Mine maxes out at about 3.8v

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

hum............3.8v huh??? I'm going to check it again but like I said my car doesn't rev to 3k it never has. I have to hold the gas for about 2 minutes and once the reading on the a/f gauge reads in the green I can let off. Thanks again

SureShot

My personal preference is because my IC is easier to pull the the passenger footwell stuff.

FWIW my ECU would not go closed loop until I set the idle ohms value up to 1.35K.
The auto adjusting feature in the S5 ECU can be biased a little.

rat39

Of course, I just had never heard that about the rack! I am going to adjust my TPS once again your way. I bet my idle straightens right. There is alot to be said for compensating for ICW, it's always a possible fault.

Thanks WAYNE

poor_red_neck

sorry to bring this up from the dead but...





As far as number 3 is concerned....

Is the reason for warming the car up fully for the fact of the fast idle cam changing the throttle opening when cold->warm? Or does it have to with the sensor reading differently when its at 130+degrees?

For example... those who have done the "full" TB mod (EVERYTHING, including dashpot removed, except for the actual throttle linkage).... you shouldn't have to have the car even running correct? Just slap the TPS on and adjust it accordingly?

Thanks,
Jon