FCnoob

i dont have a stock ecu could that be it

phoenix7

yeah, put the stock one back in. What do you have in there?

FCnoob

an oem ecu i dont have a stock ecu....wish i did and im willing to bet thats also the reason why i didnt pass emissions

phoenix7

? OEM=Stock, you mean JDM? this is the first time it's done it?

FCnoob

hmm no when i bought the guy said he put a new oem ecu in it
maybe he ws bullshitting or mixed it up with JDM im gonna find out tomorrow if its stock ill start working on replacing the omp and you said a compression check would be wise so and if it doesnt solve my problem it will be nice know i have one

phoenix7

don't replace anything yet. test it first. Have you downloaded the FSM yet/

FCnoob

FSM no i dont own a factory service manual......definitely going to get one though

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

OEM=Original Equipment Manfacturer. In other words, stock. Check what code the engine light is throwing then go from there

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

Dude no offence if you didn't know what OEM was I don't think you should be tearing into your car without knowing what your doing at all...read everything there is on here...go buy yourself a Haynes manual or use the FSM...make sure you have an idea of what your doing before you just go tearing into things.

LogicFoxX

iTrader: (2)

I agree, from personal experience, it's cheaper to learn through success than mistakes. However, don't let that stop you from fixing your own problems! Don't jump the gun either, replacing the ecu with an oem is like changing a burnt lightbulb, the original one was bad so replace it with the same brand and wattage(Same Brand ECU Mazda, and serries S5).

rx7legend

ohhhhh boy these reminds me when i bought my TII 4 years ago, i was 16 and stubborn i din't know **** but my spirit kept me going and damn i love rotaries. my advice to you bro is try to read everything you can, try to work on your car by yourself and get familiar with it. hope you succes in your problem, WELCOME to the rotary world.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Start with this (thanks to Ted for his site and the original site with the info):
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ERRORC...KI/kerror.html

Getting the engine codes from a 1989-1991 RX-7.
(Note: I have been told this procedure does NOT work on the 86-88 models. You can, however, use a voltmeter and count the pulses on an 86-88. Consult your shop manual for how to do this. The wiring is different and these instructions will not work for you. Sorry.) If your "Check Engine" light ever comes on during driving, the "trouble code" is stored in the engine computer forever. (Or at least until you replace your battery.) There is an EXTREMELY SAFE AND EASY way to retrieve these codes. (And free too!)

Disclaimer
I don't guarantee it will work, and I'm not responsible if you manage to fry something by hooking things up incorrectly. USE THIS PROCEDURE AT YOUR OWN RISK. This procedure is (roughly) documented in the Mazda Shop Manual. I suggest you use this manual once you get the codes, or take the car to a trusted independent mechanic. (Do NOT trust the Mazda dealer!) The Shop Manual has detailed test procedures to perform for all trouble codes that the CPU may report on.

Getting the codes
You need to turn the engine off, and remove the key.
Now you need to pop the hood and locate the green "test" connector(s). These connectors are located in the front of the car, near the battery on the driver side, and near the airbox on the passenger side. They are green, and not connected to anything.
Locate the green, SINGLE connector near the battery. It should be close to another green multi-socket connector. Take a jumper wire (anything is fine, old speaker wire, etc.) and cram one end into the single green connector, and ground the other end. (I find the conveniently located (-) battery post usually does the trick)
Get back in the driver's seat, and turn the key to the IGNITION only. DO NOT START THE CAR.
The Check Engine Light should come on (as usual when you hit ignition with no start), and then go out. It will then start flashing the CPU version of Morse Code. (See below for decoding hints.)
Watch carefully. Get the timing down. Note that SEVERAL trouble codes my be reported on. You can leave the key in as long as necessary, the codes will continue to repeat indefinately.
Once you have the code(s), you can remove the key, remove the jumper, and start figuring out what is causing the code(s).
Its THAT simple. If you make repairs and want to "clear" the code - to see if you actually fixed things - you should remove the (-) battery cable for about 30 seconds. Repeat steps 3-7 above BEFORE starting the engine to make sure you cleared the code(s). Then take a test drive and repeat steps 1-7 again to see if your problem is gone.

Reading the Codes
The codes are displayed from lowest to highest, tens digit first, the one(s) digit. A sample reading (with trouble codes 9 and 24) is below. S - short (1/2 sec), L - long (1 sec), P - Pause (2 secs, pause between codes. There is a "double-pause" before the sequence repeats). If you had trouble codes 9 and 24, you would see: ... SSSSSSSSS (9) P LLSSSS (24) P P SSSSSSSSS (9) P LLSSSS (24) P P ... (repeat forever) I find it easiest to try to determine what the codes are first, then "predict" the pattern of blinks. This is a good way to confirm you have the codes correct.

What causes the codes/Check Engine Light
Whenever the CPU gets an "input" from one of its sensors that is out of a pre-determined range, the Check Engine light will come on. This light means that the CPU is essentially "ignoring" the input from a specific input device (or devices) and using "fall-back" values that are pre-programmed into the CPU. For example, if the throttle position sensor (TPS) says the throttle is closed, but the airflow meter says you are using a lot of air, the CPU will mark the TPS suspect, ignore it, and use a default value for it. As soon as the input looks reasonable again, the CPU will go back to using that input. The Check engine light will go out, but the trouble code will be saved.

Some dealers will try to tell you there is not a problem if the check engine light is off. This is simply not true. They can easily retrieve the codes. I suggest you stay far away from Mazda dealers, and find a trusted independant mechanic, but I digress...

So, I've got a code, what does it mean?
See below for the exact meaning according to the Shop Manual. Read on for actually interpreting that code... Note that if you get multiple codes, there may really only be ONE thing wrong. Much of the system interacts with several components, so a single failure may "cascade" into multiple troubles. Use your brain (or a trusted mechanic) to determine the most likely cause of the problem. It is doubtful, for example, that your Intake air sensor, altitude compensation sensor, intake airflow meter, and TPS are all bad. Its more likely you have a loose electircal connection and a vacuum leak. The components are quite reliable, so always suspect the simple solution first. It is normally the cheapest as well. (A vacuum hose is pennies, but a TPS is hundreds of dollars.)

The Codes - from the 1990 Service Manual (86-88 do NOT match!)
Code - Input Device - Fail-safe operation mode

01 - Ignition Coil (Trailing) - Trailing ignition pulse cut
02 - Crank Angle Sensor (Ne) - Fuel Injection and ignition cut
03 - Crank Angle Sensor (G) - Fuel Injection and ignition cut
08 - Airflow Meter (AFM) - Basic Fuel Injection and fixed timing (Cripple mode)
09 - Water Thermosensor - Coolant temp fixed at 176F
10 - Intake Air Thermosensor (AFM) - Intake air fixed at 68F
11 - Intake Air Thermosensor (Engine) - Intake air fixed at 68F
12 - Throttle Sensor (TPS) Full Range - Fixed at 20% open
13 - Pressure Sensor (intake manifold pressure) - Fixed at 29.9 inHg
14 - Atmospheric Pressure Sensor (Inside of ECU) - Fixed at 29.9 inHg
15 - Oxygen Sensor - Feedback cancelled
17 - Feedback System (poss O2 sensor) - Feedback cancelled
18 - Throttle Sensor (TPS) Narrow Range - Fixed at full-open
20 - Metering Oil Pump (MOP) position sensor - Basic Fuel Inj and fixed timing
27 - MOP (General) - Basic Fuel Injection and fixed timing
37 - MOP (General) - Basic Fuel Injection and fixed timing
Code - Output Device

25 - Solenoid, Pressure Regulator Control
26 - MOP (Step Motor)
30 - Solenoid, Split Air Valve
31 - Solenoid, Relief Valve
32 - Solenoid, Switch Valve
33 - Solenoid, Port Air Valve
34 - Solenoid, Bypass Air Control (BAC) Valve
38 - Solenoid, Accelerated Warm-up System (AWS)
40 - Solenoid, Auxiliary Port (6PI) Valve
41 - Solenoid, Variable Dynamic Effect Intake (VDI)
51 - Fuel pump resistor relay
71 - Injector (Front secondary)
73 - Injector (Rear secondary)

johnmasters

OK, KNONFS has given you all that you need to begin to track your problem down. PLEASE, DO NOT do anything or spend any money before you check your codes.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

Clogged cats maybe? You said it didn't pass emissions.

I'd check either of those 2 first.

If you need a new S5 OMP, i have one i will be removing anyways if you want it for cheap.

phoenix7

that WAS a good post. 100 forum bux for Knonfs

FCnoob

i checked my CEL codes and figured out that my OMP is bad does anyone have a good one laying around they could sell me?

phoenix7

rebuild it. you should be happy it was just limp mode and not the worst case snerario. Check the FS section, racing beat, mazdatrix and the dealership. Download the FSM and go to the lubrication section (i think) and it will show you how to rebuild it (if you wanna to do so).

By rebuilding it you're going to be SURE it will last longer than another USED unit.


Good job.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Nah man, I can't take credit for that. Thanks to Ted for having the info on his site, and thanks to the other site (where Ted is mirrorin the info from)!

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Didn't know you could rebuild them (ditched mine a loooong time ago); but if it can be done, I would rather do that than buy a used one

FCnoob

no luck trying to find out how to rebuild it in the FSM just kept telling me to replace it

SkyWalker

the same thing happened to me bro, and after a bunch of checks and after my boy that knows rotaries real well looked at it, it turned out to be the throttle position sensor. it was after I changed out the MAF, and we started her up and she bogged down when it was floored, but ran smooth if it was pampered. He told me it was one of three problems: the MAF, the TPS, or a bad secondary injector. since I had already replaced the MAF, and I checked the injector with a long screwdriver, I narrowed it down and replaced the TPS. . .it worked! thank god. so look into that if your still having trouble.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Try www.mazmart.com

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

Yeah search around for how to rebuild one, eventually you'll find something. If not they usually aren't expensive at all. Once you rebuild/replace it, disconnect the battery for about a minute, reconnect it and take it for a drive. If it does the same think, double check that the OMP lines are filling up. If everything checks okay, you just may need to replace the ECU

phoenix7

http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ion_system.pdf

You could have found all his info by searching but now you know what to do next time something happens.

Whatever happens next, remember: Just follow the instructions. If something happens and you can't figure it out then just ask.

Let us know what you find.

FCnoob

guys ive already searched that and it doesnt tell you how to repair besides to check the oil nozzle the OMP jus list problems and says replace next to it.....trust my iv'e been searching my *** off
today i drove the car and it acted fine my guess is that i didnt drive it long enough for the omp to start malfunctioning because the ECU resets when you start it *i think* i didnt drive for more than 25 min