HAILERS

An engine that will start and run for 17 seconds and then die, has all the symptoms of a LARGE air leak. Been there, done that. It's hard to see what it could be from here.

86 non turbo. On the bottom of the duct that runs b/t the afm and the throttle body, there is a one inch hose that connects from the bottom of that duct to a metal pipe on the back of the throttle body. It must be in place.

That same metal tube runs to the left side of the engine to the air bypass solenoid and STUFF that I've forgotten about. The rubber hose that connect to the metal pipe on the left side of the engine MUST be on. OR you might plug that hose on the bottom of the inlet duct that runs b/t the afm and throttle body. That would eliminate the possibility of a leak on the left side of the engine.

Is the brake booster hose the connects to the intake manifold on???? Right rear side of the engine.

Right and left are determined by sitting in the drivers seat and looking forward when describing parts on the car. Just FYI.

steiner_5000

Both of those hoses you mentioned are hooked up....the one to the solenoid is hooked up and the one to the manifold is hooked up..any other ideas?

steiner_5000

I have taken these hoses off (except the brake boost) before but put them back on....could that have made a difference...could the hoses go bad?

Cybaster

if u said it ran for 30 seconds a few times and then it died, and never started again, check if the engine is flooded also, because if the car did not finish the warm up cycle and the car stalls, it floods VERY easily.... if u can still crank it and u hear it crank, try HOLDING the gas pedal WIDE open, step on it but DON'T pump it.... then crank it...

well if it can at least run for 30 seconds again, at least u fixed one problem =)

HAILERS

No, those hose last forever.

Maybe it is a fuel problem with the switch in the afm. I'm not really hot on this idea, but give it a try. Jumper the Fuel Pump Check Connector. It is located near the right hand strut tower. It is not tied down to anything. It is a two socket connector, YELLOW in color and maybe a black boot around it. Put a jumper wire into the two sockets. One end in one socket and the other end in the other socket.

When the key is put to ON, that jumper makes the fuel pump run all the time the key is to ON . Then start the engine once more and see if it keeps running. If the engine does what it did prior to the jumper, then its most likely not a fuel pump/afm problem. OH. Make sure the afm has its plug connected, please. Double check it.

Do you have gas in the gas tank. Had to ask.

steiner_5000

GREAT NEWWS......I did the jumper thing on the fuel pump and after about 3 tries it started right up.......It run for about 3 minutes (enough time to leave some phone messages) them it puttered and died and wouldn't start again....I also noticed it would idle at 2K instead of 750 and every time I even brushed the trottle it would cut a little.......does this mean it flooded???

steiner_5000

and by the way when I held the AFM flapper over it didn't help at all..Thankx any way sonicrat

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, that means either your AFM is dead, or the wiring to the AFM is bad. (This is a 86-88 right? Just to make sure)

steiner_5000

Yeah it's 86..where should I go to get a new one and how much are they

smuse305

Victoria British have them for like 175 bucks

VroomVroomVroom

Ha ha! How did you expect it to run with the intake hose removed LOL.
Sorry, but put that stuff back on, connecting the throttle body (the butterflies) to the AFM (The aluminum thing below the black air filter box). Remove your air filter, and find inside, the rectangular air vane (at the very bottom, towards the firewall direction). You can get a finger in there and push open the flap. The flap actually measures the amount of air going into the engine. There is a microswitch that operates just as the flap leaves its rest position, and it is this switch that runs the fuel pump.
Get a friend to crank the engine while you gingerly open that flap. If the engine had sufficient vacuum, it would pull open the flap on its own.
Dave

steiner_5000

WELL........for your information it did start with the air tunnel off.......and it has plenty of vaccuumm because the flapper flaps when I crank the engine. So I'm gonna work on the AFM......thankx anyway

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

You can get them used for under $50. You either have a bad AFM/wiring or a massive air leak. It's hard to trouble shoot though, it could be something as simple as a clogged fuel filter that doesn't flow enough, or as difficult as a bad fuel pump or AFM. Just have to try to eliminate causes. Get the FSM and check everything using it.