some useful info i found, all kinds of fixes
08-27-04 | 06:10 AM
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From: the colony, tx
some useful info i found, all kinds of fixes
Section II: How to fix your broken Rotary Rocket:
CPU Cold Solder points fix (David Disney (Older version by Don St.John)
It is a good idea to disconnect your battery when doing any kind of electrical work on your car. When resoldering these circuit boards, don't use a mega-huge, three million watt soldering iron. You'll just end up making a mess. The usual five dollar R adio Shack soldering irons work just fine. Also, if you have never soldered before, you'd better get some practice before you delve into your beloved Rx-7's CPU.
Remove the Driver's Side Kickrail. (The long plastic piece that mounts immediately below the door. After removing all of the screws in the kickrail (there are four or five), you must pop the kickrail up, away from the vehicle. There are several metal clips under the kickrail that hold it down, so you will
have to provide a pretty good amount of upward pressure, but be careful that you don't pull too hard on either end of the rail or it could break. I haven't broken one yet (they seem to be pretty tough), but I'm sure it can happen.
Remove Plastic Side Panel. Take a look at the plastic side panel on the left side of the driver's footwell. You will have to use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the three plastic inserts that hold the panel in. Just pull 'em out. Then m ove the panel out of your way.
Unplug the CPU Wiring Connectors. Now you should be able to see the CPU. Its the rectangular box that has a big wiring harness plugged into the front of it. Unplug the 'big wiring harness' I just mentioned.
Remove the CPU Restraints. Now you'll need a 10mm socket and a short extension. A ratchet would be a good idea also (unless you have really strong fingers). At the top of the CPU is the nut that holds it in. Remove the nut.
Remove the CPU. Now you should be able to tilt the top of the CPU towards the passenger's side of the car while pulling upward on it. The CPU should pop right out. Notice how the protrusion on the bottom of the CPU fits into a little socket in the car. You'll need to realize how it fits when you
put the CPU back in. There are also a couple more wiring harness connectors on the bottom of the CPU, unplug these also. Now you have the CPU out of the car. Take it inside and plug up your soldering iron.
Start Taking it Apart. There are two small screws on the outside of the CPU case. One is on the bottom and the other is on the back. Remove these screws.
Remove the CPU Case. Now you will have to take a small screwdriver and pry the back lid off the CPU case. Also pry the bottom of the case off. You will have to be very careful and patient so that you don't break the case. After getting these covers off, you can remove the circuit boards from the case.
Resolder the Beastie Take a close look at all the solder points on all three of the circuit boards. It would be wise to resolder all of them. However, if you're in a hurry you can just resolder the areas where the spade connectors for the wiri ng harness plugs are located. These are easy to recognize because of the copper spade connectors on the component side of the board and the larger solder points (Figure 5) on the other side of the board. These solder points seem to be the main cause of trouble because they are under the most stress from the weight of the wiring harness bouncing around on them. They're almost always cracked and should get most of your attention.
Put it Back Together. What is it all the shop manuals say? Oh yeah, installation is the reverse of removal. Just put everything back together and you should be in great shape!
3800 RPM Hesitation Fix (Dana Sullivan)
| | |------upper left wire should be brown
| ________ | ''|=='''
|--- | | ---| | - - | This is supposed to look like
| o | | 13B | | o | |'-''-'| the plug you disconnect from the
|-#- | | ---| sensor.
| \ |______| | Take the upper left wire, brown
| boost sensor | with black stripe, ground it to
|___________________| the radiator filler neck.
front of car
1) Locate the boost sensor on the front of the passenger's side strut tower. Note: There is a vacuum line running from the sensor to the side of the engine block.
2) Disconnect the 4*wire 'gang plug' from the sensor.
3) Locate the upper left wire. Refer to diagram.
4) Take a very small flathead screwdriver and insert it into the back of the plug on top of the wire. You should be able to raise a small flap of plastic allowing the brown wire with it's crimped connector still attached to be removed from the gang plug.
5) Take a 12" piece of thin gauge wire and solder one end to the connector where it is crimped around the brown wire.
6) Insert the crimped connector with the new wire attached back in the gang plug.
7) Loosen one of the bolts that holds the radiator cap housing to the filler neck. Strip ¾" of wire off the end of the ground wire your just soldered and wrap it around the loose bolt. Tighten bolt.
Plug gang plug back into boost sensor
EDITOR's NOTE: This fix is NOT guaranteed, it seems to have about a 50% chance of solving your problem. It does NOT work on my 1987 Sport, but others have had success with it. I personally do not think this is the cause of the problem. I believe, partially because it worsens in low temperatures, that it has to do with wear on one or more other components, or a programming error in the engine management computer. I happen to know of one 1987 GXL of a newer build date than mine which does not suffer from this problem. I believe that the problem may be caused by progressive failure of the exhaust system. I think that as the exhaust gets older and the front cats start to disintegrate into the main cat backpressure increases, causing the ports to open early or late. When I replaced the cats on my car with a downpipe and presilencer from MazdaTrix the problem promptly vanished.
Cold Solder points fix for the Clock/Idiot light (Tuck)
Start by placing the blade of a flathead screwdriver under the front lip of the plastic trim piece that is in front of the clock/idiot light unit. Pry it up and you will see two screws that hold the assembly in place, one on each side of the unit. Remove these screws and pull the clock unit out. The wires are tight but some slack can be pulled out from the inside of the dash. Unhook the clock/idiot light module. Remove a few screws from the back of the unit and carefully check and resolder all the solder connections on the socket for the plug. Resolder other stuff if you are feeling adventurous. Installation consists of plugging the unit back into the wiring harness, screwing it back in, and snapping the trim piece back over the unit. It is short and sweet. One important note, if you decide to resolder ALL of the solder points in the unit, be careful, there are a number of delicate components that can be killed with great ease by overheating, especially under that little black plastic thing.
Cold Solder points in the Logicon (Mike Mario)
I have repaired my logicon because my heater didn't maintain the correct temp. It would stay hot for a while and then the air mix motor would move the vent settings to the cold position. It would generally stay in that position. There is also another well known problem with the air mix adjust motors. They were manufactured with an inappropriate lubricant, which causes the motor to seize in low temperature environments. This can burn out the drive transistors in the logicon and possibly the motor itself. As a rule, if you took your car to the dealer because of logicon problems they replaced the air mix motor whether you liked or not.
My air mix motor was not the problem in my case, I even took the logicon out and tracked down the drive transistors and replace them to no avail.
To repair the logicon, all the solder joints need to be resoldered. There are 3 circuit boards in the logicon, a large main one, one behind the front panel switches and lights and one in a small separate box attached to the outside.
The problem in repairing the logicon is not the actual resoldering but rather getting the logicon out of the dash. It is fairly straightforward to take the logicon apart and get at the circuit boards.
To take the logicon out of the car, you first need to take the cover off the center cockpit console. First pop up the cover around the shifter, this is done by prying it up from the side toward the hand brake. This exposes 2 screws under the ash tray. Remove these screws and then remove two more screws at the very top of the trim panel.
The logicon is held in place with 4 screws two on each side. There are three connectors which need to be removed, two are connectors that plug into the back of the logicon and are reasonably easy to remove. The third is the big problem.
The third connector is at the end of an 18" cable which comes out from the logicon itself (why they did this I'll never figure out) it snakes up into the dash and disappears. It ends at a connector which is where the windshield meets the dash behind the clock/light module. There is a metal plate running the length of the dash along the window, you need to remove this plate to get at the connector.
To remove the plate (while minimizing the possibility of damaging the trim pieces) requires that you remove much of the trim around the front window. Start at the top and remove the side molding on one side of the window (you will need to remove the center trim piece on top of the window to do this easily). Now you can lift out the metal plate which contains the defrost vents and spans the dash from window pillar to window pillar. It is fastened down with a screw at the center which is covered by a small square plastic cover (which is extremely difficult to get off without breaking), and a number of strong snap in metal clips. After removing the screw the rest of the plate pops off. You will have to carefully maneuver the plate to get it out once it is unscrewed and unsnapped.
Now you can disconnect the connector and pull out the logicon. The cable going the connector is held in place by a metal strap in the middle of the dash, you may be able to get at the strap to bend it up from the opening made by the metal plate. I originally loosened the strap from below as I was removing the air mix motor.
Remove the logicon from the dash while carefully snaking the long cable out from behind the dash. Once you have done this it is a fairly straightforward process to disassemble the logicon and resolder the points inside. Almost all of them will be bad so plan on spending some time on this. You may want to source some replacement light bulbs for the lighting instruments in the faceplate (not the LED's in the sliders) so that you can replace them while the unit is out. When you are done, you may want to spray the boards with a clear enamel which is sold at electronics stores for sealing circuit boards. Reinstallation is much easier than getting it out, and once you have removed the unit once, subsequent removal is much easier.
NOTE: If your Logicon fries and you decide to pull it and fix it yourself, use a transistor checker. If the transistors appear to be fried then you might want to consider getting a new adjust motor before you replace/fix it. MazdaTrix stocks rebuilt logicons for $231 the part number is "LOGICON" and MazdaTrix can be reached at (310)*426*7960. I believe they can also sell you the bulbs inside the unit.
Intermittent operation of the passenger side speaker (Victor Bradley)
My 86 RX-7 had a Front right speaker that would go dead every now & then. When I whacked it with my palm, it would work for awhile, until I went over my next bump. Now I know what you're thinkin... cold solder joint, right? WRONG! Bad relay inside the speaker box. Here's how to fix it. Remove the speaker box, unplug it. (Make sure the radio is turned off first.) Open it up and look for a little black plastic box on the circuit board that's located just inside the rear cover just inside the box from where the main connector plug is. This little plastic box is a relay. The top pulls right off. Now you can watch the stupid thing turn on and off when you flex the circuit board. If it does as I've described, the fix is simple: just jam a short piece of a toothpick, or any other small insulator into the mechanism so that the relay points stay closed. This fixed it for me.
Catalytic converter shield fix (Tuck)
In my case, the front hangar has rusted out, and the shield was making a nice road kill scoop/gravel plow. Go to your local Trak Auto (or similar store, such as Auto Zone), and ask for a catalytic converter hangar. They sell them for a few bucks and they are perfectly adequate for the job. It took me all of 8 minutes to install two in my car (one on the front and one on the rear of my cat shield). The vast majority of this time was spent jacking the car up. All you have to do is wrap it around the cat and the shield, pull it tight and then screw it down. This is a much better fix than getting new parts from Mazda, as you have to buy a whole new catalytic converter to get the hangars ($900).
Clunk in rear suspension (Jay Harrell)
Replace the rear control links.
Notchy shifting into 3rd gear
This problem is caused by weak synchros in the Mazda 5 speed, it appears that the 5 speed used in the non turbo cars is approaching it's power handling limit. To completely solve this problem requires a transmission rebuild, but if you don't want to spend the money or the time, you can at least smooth things out a little bit by filling your transmission with RedLine synthetic lubricant. Some people have expressed concerns over using the RedLine MTL because it has a lower viscosity than the stock lubricant. It's your call as to whether you use RedLine synthetics or their MTL. If that doesn't do it, get your transmission rebuilt, be aware that parts costs in this case can easily exceed labor costs. You can contact RedLine at 1*800*624*7958.
Broken outside door handles (Ken)
Your best bet is to acquire a new handle from MazdaTrix, or from a junk yards and getting it painted to match by a competent auto body shop. Otherwise you may be able to fix the problem by opening up the door and using JBweld, or liquid weld, or whichever is your favorite metal repair chemical to fix any cracking in the metal of the handle frame.
Rusted exterior window trim (Chuck Ortt)
Snap off the plastic trim piece around the manual mirror adjust lever. Unscrew the mirror mounting screws. Pop out the original piece and replace with the Mazda replacement part (which is plastic). Put it all back together.
Broken driver's side seat adjust lever
This problem involves the plastic trim piece on the door side of the seat. This trim piece comes loose and can jam the adjust lever. The lever itself is a metal piece with a hole in it. There is a metal post on the seat adjust mechanism that is supposed to go into this hole. The retaining clip on the post fails and the lever pops off the post, causing the seat to continuously spring forward (and pushes the plastic mechanism cover out). If you remove the spring on the lever, then the seat will no longer pop forward, but the lever then has to be pushed back down manually to lock the seat in place. The only other solution is to replace the retaining clip and trim piece, or to replace the rails and adjust mechanism on the seat.
Failing light switch:
Replace the light switch assembly, this is due to a non*correctable mechanical failure in the switch. Please closely examine the plugs on the light switch, as this problem is usually accompanied by high voltages that melt the switch, plugs, and sometimes the wiring harness. If this is the case, replace the light switch wiring harness as well. The wiring harness and switch are available from MazdaTrix. The part number for the switch is "66*1700*FB01" and the harness is "66*1670*FB01". The switch is $225.30 and the harness is $65.75. MazdaTrix can be reached at (310)*426*7960. These parts can usually be acquired very cheaply at a junk yard. You can help prevent this problem from afflicting your car by disassembling the unit and resoldering everything inside it prior to failure.
Failing Wiper Switch (Gary)
First remove the binnacle that contains the switches, unplug the 3 large connectors, and take the unit in to the workbench for a close examination. Remove the wiper switch module by pulling the ***** off and unscrewing the 2 screws that secure the module to the plastic binnacle. Then lever off the white plastic cover over the circuit board (it is secured by tongues into the black plastic case). Then desolder the rows of pins that secure the circuit board to the three switches in the module and remove the circuit board. Now, lever the cover off the relay nearest the wiper switch end (careful, these relays are fragile inside) and examine the open contact, it may appear burnt. Dressed it up with some fine emery paper, gently push the outer fixed contact in a little to close the gap a fraction, and reassemble the whole mess. Viola! Your problem is solved.
The tricky part is identifying the pins of the switches that need to be desoldered to get the PCB out. They are all along the "inside" edge, in two rows clustered in three groups (about 14 contacts in all). One of the wiper switch contacts is particularly difficult to desolder, as there are two pins shoved through the same hole. Use Dri-wick (solderwick) or similar, unless you have desoldering equipment at hand. Use only a hot enough iron to do the job, too much heat will cause the tracks to lift off.
The switch is, of course, also available from MazdaTrix, and can be purchased very cheaply at a junk yard.
Replacing worn out shift lever bushings (David Disney and Jamey Moss)
The following info is for 86-88 Sevens, but the process is almost identical for the 1st gens, but some of the part numbers/bushings are different.
First, obtain some new shifter bushings. I'd suggest getting them from MazdaTrix, as your local dealer will charge you 2-3 times more, depending on the day of the week... and they won't have them in stock either. Anyway, the MazdaTrix part numbers are as follows:
99-1780-M505 ~$6.50
17-4810-8AF1 ~$6.50
1-800-426-TRIX
Next, you have to get to the old bushings:
1) There is a locknut just below the shifter ****. Take an adjustable wrench and turn it clockwise. The **** should now be lose and you can remove it and the locknut.
2) CAREFULLY pop off the shifter cover panel. It contains the leather boot and pops straight up as one piece. If you are not careful you will break the tabs off the panel. Also, do not pull on the leather boot... bad idea.
3) Now you can take a 10mm socket and a short extension and remove the 3 bolts that hold the shifter to the transmission. You may have to fish around in the myriad of rubber boots to get at them, but have patience and you'll be ok. After removing the 3 bolts, apply moderate upward pressure to the shifter lever. It is held in to its socket by a spring, so you may have to wiggle it a bit while you pull up on it.
4) So, now you should see the plastic bushings (or what's left of them). I would suggest fishing any chunks of old bushing out of the shifter housing.
5) Now you can look at the old bushing setup and get a good idea how the new ones should go. Its something like this: On the bottom of the shifter 'ball' there should be (going from bottom up) a spring washer, possibly another thin washer, and finally the plastic cup that the 'ball' sits it. On the top of the 'ball' they go in the opposite order. The tricky part is the top. You'll have to _carefully_ remove the rubber boot so that you can slide the bushing down over the shifter lever. I find that some Windex helps grease things up.
6) Assembly is the reverse of installation (duh, where have I heard that before?). When you put the shifter back in, be sure that the little notches in the 'ball' cups (no laughing!) line up with the slot in the shifter ball and the little **** in the shifter housing.
7) Put everything back together and you're done!
NOTE! You won't use all of the stuff that comes in the previously listed parts kits. Mazda apparently decided not to make a single 86-88 bushing kit, so you have to 'make your own' from these two kits. The parts to use are as follows:
Keep the blue bushing, the white bushing, one spring (the round metal piece with clips), and one gasket. Next, put the blue bushing on over the shifter with the rounded side of the bushing next to the large ball part of the shifter. Clip the spring to the white bushing (it only goes on one way), then put the white bushing, spring-side down, into the hole where the shifter goes, aligning the grooved part of the bushing with the aligning pin in the hole.
Section III
Tuning and Performance
Ignition Timing (Dave Henning)
I did the timing on my '86 sport recently. I didn't use a tachometer for 2 reasons:
1) I could not just go buy a tachometer and expect it to give a proper reading since they are all set for cylinder types of engines.
2) The tachometer on the dash seems to work just fine.
The timing only requires a light with the inductive coil on it. It should state this on the box and can be purchased at WalMart or store of your choice for <$30. Don't get the expensive ones with the dials they aren't worth it.
Hook the inductive coil around the leading wire to the front rotor. Then connect the other wires to the battery and ground. Loosen the bolt to the crank angle sensor. It is brass so be careful not to strip it. Do not remove the screws on the sensor plate, it does no good.
Turn on the engine and let it warm up to idle. Pull the trigger of the light and point at the pulley at the base of the crank angle sensor. There are 2 marks, yellow for leading and red for trailing. They may be difficult to distinguish. The timing light should be hooked close to the coil and not the spark plug.
There is a pin above the pulley to match the yellow mark to. If you cannot tell which color is which just turn the crank angle sensor (it pivots after you loosen that bolt) and get one of the marks set with the pin.
Disconnect the inductive coil and re-connect it to the trailing wire for the front rotor. Point the gun at the pulley again and squeeze the trigger. If there is a mark (should be red but maybe can't tell) lined up with the pin then you are done and should shut off the engine and tighten the bolt to the crank angle sensor. If the mark is _way_ off then you confused the colors and should redo the leading timing until the other mark is lined up properly, then redo the trailing timing.
If you cannot reconcile the marks to both line up properly, make sure you are using the proper wires. They are marked L1 and T1. If they still do not line up then ask more people on the list for advanced help. BE CAREFUL!!!! While adjusting the sensor the engine is at operating temps. This may cause you to want to use a rag to turn it and not burn your hand. However, the fan and some belts are in very tight proximity and could hurt you if you don't take care.
The Haynes manual pictures should point out the sensor. If you aren't sure where it is, it is on the driver's side and behind where the a/c and power steering (if you have it) pumps are located. It has a black cover with 2 screws on top. It is about 2-3" in diameter on top and smaller as it joins the engine. Good Luck, it takes about 1/2 hour even while you are learning. It took me more time to go buy the light.
Making a Throttle Position Sensor Test Lamp (Dana Sullivan)
You can make a test light yourself fairly easily. Take two turn signal bulbs or similar type lights and solder a piece of wire between the two cans of the bulbs. Take another length of wire and solder one end to one can. This wire is your common ground wire, this will attach to the Black w/white stripe wire (ground) on the gang plug.
There should be 2 wires running out of the two remaining connectors. Solder a piece of wire to the + terminal of each light bulb and run one each to the two remaining connectors.
Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment (Glenn Heidel)
1) Warm up the engine, then stop it.
2) Connect the checker lamp to the check connector (green).
3) Turn the ignition switch on and check whether one of the lamp illuminates.
4) If both lamps illuminate or if neither does, turn the throttle sensor adjust screw until one of the lamps illuminates.
a) If both lamps illuminate turn the adjust screw clockwise.
b) If both lamps do not illuminate turn the adjust screw counterclockwise.
I'd just like to add that I found the best results by turning the screw counter-clockwise until I obtained condition 4)a) above (both lit) then I turned the screw clockwise until one light went out + 1/8 turn of the screw. This assures the throttle is as close to actually closed as possible when the sensor indicates that condition to the computer. (Thus giving you the smoothest transition on/off idle.)
CPU Cold Solder points fix (David Disney (Older version by Don St.John)
It is a good idea to disconnect your battery when doing any kind of electrical work on your car. When resoldering these circuit boards, don't use a mega-huge, three million watt soldering iron. You'll just end up making a mess. The usual five dollar R adio Shack soldering irons work just fine. Also, if you have never soldered before, you'd better get some practice before you delve into your beloved Rx-7's CPU.
Remove the Driver's Side Kickrail. (The long plastic piece that mounts immediately below the door. After removing all of the screws in the kickrail (there are four or five), you must pop the kickrail up, away from the vehicle. There are several metal clips under the kickrail that hold it down, so you will
have to provide a pretty good amount of upward pressure, but be careful that you don't pull too hard on either end of the rail or it could break. I haven't broken one yet (they seem to be pretty tough), but I'm sure it can happen.
Remove Plastic Side Panel. Take a look at the plastic side panel on the left side of the driver's footwell. You will have to use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the three plastic inserts that hold the panel in. Just pull 'em out. Then m ove the panel out of your way.
Unplug the CPU Wiring Connectors. Now you should be able to see the CPU. Its the rectangular box that has a big wiring harness plugged into the front of it. Unplug the 'big wiring harness' I just mentioned.
Remove the CPU Restraints. Now you'll need a 10mm socket and a short extension. A ratchet would be a good idea also (unless you have really strong fingers). At the top of the CPU is the nut that holds it in. Remove the nut.
Remove the CPU. Now you should be able to tilt the top of the CPU towards the passenger's side of the car while pulling upward on it. The CPU should pop right out. Notice how the protrusion on the bottom of the CPU fits into a little socket in the car. You'll need to realize how it fits when you
put the CPU back in. There are also a couple more wiring harness connectors on the bottom of the CPU, unplug these also. Now you have the CPU out of the car. Take it inside and plug up your soldering iron.
Start Taking it Apart. There are two small screws on the outside of the CPU case. One is on the bottom and the other is on the back. Remove these screws.
Remove the CPU Case. Now you will have to take a small screwdriver and pry the back lid off the CPU case. Also pry the bottom of the case off. You will have to be very careful and patient so that you don't break the case. After getting these covers off, you can remove the circuit boards from the case.
Resolder the Beastie Take a close look at all the solder points on all three of the circuit boards. It would be wise to resolder all of them. However, if you're in a hurry you can just resolder the areas where the spade connectors for the wiri ng harness plugs are located. These are easy to recognize because of the copper spade connectors on the component side of the board and the larger solder points (Figure 5) on the other side of the board. These solder points seem to be the main cause of trouble because they are under the most stress from the weight of the wiring harness bouncing around on them. They're almost always cracked and should get most of your attention.
Put it Back Together. What is it all the shop manuals say? Oh yeah, installation is the reverse of removal. Just put everything back together and you should be in great shape!
3800 RPM Hesitation Fix (Dana Sullivan)
| | |------upper left wire should be brown
| ________ | ''|=='''
|--- | | ---| | - - | This is supposed to look like
| o | | 13B | | o | |'-''-'| the plug you disconnect from the
|-#- | | ---| sensor.
| \ |______| | Take the upper left wire, brown
| boost sensor | with black stripe, ground it to
|___________________| the radiator filler neck.
front of car
1) Locate the boost sensor on the front of the passenger's side strut tower. Note: There is a vacuum line running from the sensor to the side of the engine block.
2) Disconnect the 4*wire 'gang plug' from the sensor.
3) Locate the upper left wire. Refer to diagram.
4) Take a very small flathead screwdriver and insert it into the back of the plug on top of the wire. You should be able to raise a small flap of plastic allowing the brown wire with it's crimped connector still attached to be removed from the gang plug.
5) Take a 12" piece of thin gauge wire and solder one end to the connector where it is crimped around the brown wire.
6) Insert the crimped connector with the new wire attached back in the gang plug.
7) Loosen one of the bolts that holds the radiator cap housing to the filler neck. Strip ¾" of wire off the end of the ground wire your just soldered and wrap it around the loose bolt. Tighten bolt.
Plug gang plug back into boost sensor
EDITOR's NOTE: This fix is NOT guaranteed, it seems to have about a 50% chance of solving your problem. It does NOT work on my 1987 Sport, but others have had success with it. I personally do not think this is the cause of the problem. I believe, partially because it worsens in low temperatures, that it has to do with wear on one or more other components, or a programming error in the engine management computer. I happen to know of one 1987 GXL of a newer build date than mine which does not suffer from this problem. I believe that the problem may be caused by progressive failure of the exhaust system. I think that as the exhaust gets older and the front cats start to disintegrate into the main cat backpressure increases, causing the ports to open early or late. When I replaced the cats on my car with a downpipe and presilencer from MazdaTrix the problem promptly vanished.
Cold Solder points fix for the Clock/Idiot light (Tuck)
Start by placing the blade of a flathead screwdriver under the front lip of the plastic trim piece that is in front of the clock/idiot light unit. Pry it up and you will see two screws that hold the assembly in place, one on each side of the unit. Remove these screws and pull the clock unit out. The wires are tight but some slack can be pulled out from the inside of the dash. Unhook the clock/idiot light module. Remove a few screws from the back of the unit and carefully check and resolder all the solder connections on the socket for the plug. Resolder other stuff if you are feeling adventurous. Installation consists of plugging the unit back into the wiring harness, screwing it back in, and snapping the trim piece back over the unit. It is short and sweet. One important note, if you decide to resolder ALL of the solder points in the unit, be careful, there are a number of delicate components that can be killed with great ease by overheating, especially under that little black plastic thing.
Cold Solder points in the Logicon (Mike Mario)
I have repaired my logicon because my heater didn't maintain the correct temp. It would stay hot for a while and then the air mix motor would move the vent settings to the cold position. It would generally stay in that position. There is also another well known problem with the air mix adjust motors. They were manufactured with an inappropriate lubricant, which causes the motor to seize in low temperature environments. This can burn out the drive transistors in the logicon and possibly the motor itself. As a rule, if you took your car to the dealer because of logicon problems they replaced the air mix motor whether you liked or not.
My air mix motor was not the problem in my case, I even took the logicon out and tracked down the drive transistors and replace them to no avail.
To repair the logicon, all the solder joints need to be resoldered. There are 3 circuit boards in the logicon, a large main one, one behind the front panel switches and lights and one in a small separate box attached to the outside.
The problem in repairing the logicon is not the actual resoldering but rather getting the logicon out of the dash. It is fairly straightforward to take the logicon apart and get at the circuit boards.
To take the logicon out of the car, you first need to take the cover off the center cockpit console. First pop up the cover around the shifter, this is done by prying it up from the side toward the hand brake. This exposes 2 screws under the ash tray. Remove these screws and then remove two more screws at the very top of the trim panel.
The logicon is held in place with 4 screws two on each side. There are three connectors which need to be removed, two are connectors that plug into the back of the logicon and are reasonably easy to remove. The third is the big problem.
The third connector is at the end of an 18" cable which comes out from the logicon itself (why they did this I'll never figure out) it snakes up into the dash and disappears. It ends at a connector which is where the windshield meets the dash behind the clock/light module. There is a metal plate running the length of the dash along the window, you need to remove this plate to get at the connector.
To remove the plate (while minimizing the possibility of damaging the trim pieces) requires that you remove much of the trim around the front window. Start at the top and remove the side molding on one side of the window (you will need to remove the center trim piece on top of the window to do this easily). Now you can lift out the metal plate which contains the defrost vents and spans the dash from window pillar to window pillar. It is fastened down with a screw at the center which is covered by a small square plastic cover (which is extremely difficult to get off without breaking), and a number of strong snap in metal clips. After removing the screw the rest of the plate pops off. You will have to carefully maneuver the plate to get it out once it is unscrewed and unsnapped.
Now you can disconnect the connector and pull out the logicon. The cable going the connector is held in place by a metal strap in the middle of the dash, you may be able to get at the strap to bend it up from the opening made by the metal plate. I originally loosened the strap from below as I was removing the air mix motor.
Remove the logicon from the dash while carefully snaking the long cable out from behind the dash. Once you have done this it is a fairly straightforward process to disassemble the logicon and resolder the points inside. Almost all of them will be bad so plan on spending some time on this. You may want to source some replacement light bulbs for the lighting instruments in the faceplate (not the LED's in the sliders) so that you can replace them while the unit is out. When you are done, you may want to spray the boards with a clear enamel which is sold at electronics stores for sealing circuit boards. Reinstallation is much easier than getting it out, and once you have removed the unit once, subsequent removal is much easier.
NOTE: If your Logicon fries and you decide to pull it and fix it yourself, use a transistor checker. If the transistors appear to be fried then you might want to consider getting a new adjust motor before you replace/fix it. MazdaTrix stocks rebuilt logicons for $231 the part number is "LOGICON" and MazdaTrix can be reached at (310)*426*7960. I believe they can also sell you the bulbs inside the unit.
Intermittent operation of the passenger side speaker (Victor Bradley)
My 86 RX-7 had a Front right speaker that would go dead every now & then. When I whacked it with my palm, it would work for awhile, until I went over my next bump. Now I know what you're thinkin... cold solder joint, right? WRONG! Bad relay inside the speaker box. Here's how to fix it. Remove the speaker box, unplug it. (Make sure the radio is turned off first.) Open it up and look for a little black plastic box on the circuit board that's located just inside the rear cover just inside the box from where the main connector plug is. This little plastic box is a relay. The top pulls right off. Now you can watch the stupid thing turn on and off when you flex the circuit board. If it does as I've described, the fix is simple: just jam a short piece of a toothpick, or any other small insulator into the mechanism so that the relay points stay closed. This fixed it for me.
Catalytic converter shield fix (Tuck)
In my case, the front hangar has rusted out, and the shield was making a nice road kill scoop/gravel plow. Go to your local Trak Auto (or similar store, such as Auto Zone), and ask for a catalytic converter hangar. They sell them for a few bucks and they are perfectly adequate for the job. It took me all of 8 minutes to install two in my car (one on the front and one on the rear of my cat shield). The vast majority of this time was spent jacking the car up. All you have to do is wrap it around the cat and the shield, pull it tight and then screw it down. This is a much better fix than getting new parts from Mazda, as you have to buy a whole new catalytic converter to get the hangars ($900).
Clunk in rear suspension (Jay Harrell)
Replace the rear control links.
Notchy shifting into 3rd gear
This problem is caused by weak synchros in the Mazda 5 speed, it appears that the 5 speed used in the non turbo cars is approaching it's power handling limit. To completely solve this problem requires a transmission rebuild, but if you don't want to spend the money or the time, you can at least smooth things out a little bit by filling your transmission with RedLine synthetic lubricant. Some people have expressed concerns over using the RedLine MTL because it has a lower viscosity than the stock lubricant. It's your call as to whether you use RedLine synthetics or their MTL. If that doesn't do it, get your transmission rebuilt, be aware that parts costs in this case can easily exceed labor costs. You can contact RedLine at 1*800*624*7958.
Broken outside door handles (Ken)
Your best bet is to acquire a new handle from MazdaTrix, or from a junk yards and getting it painted to match by a competent auto body shop. Otherwise you may be able to fix the problem by opening up the door and using JBweld, or liquid weld, or whichever is your favorite metal repair chemical to fix any cracking in the metal of the handle frame.
Rusted exterior window trim (Chuck Ortt)
Snap off the plastic trim piece around the manual mirror adjust lever. Unscrew the mirror mounting screws. Pop out the original piece and replace with the Mazda replacement part (which is plastic). Put it all back together.
Broken driver's side seat adjust lever
This problem involves the plastic trim piece on the door side of the seat. This trim piece comes loose and can jam the adjust lever. The lever itself is a metal piece with a hole in it. There is a metal post on the seat adjust mechanism that is supposed to go into this hole. The retaining clip on the post fails and the lever pops off the post, causing the seat to continuously spring forward (and pushes the plastic mechanism cover out). If you remove the spring on the lever, then the seat will no longer pop forward, but the lever then has to be pushed back down manually to lock the seat in place. The only other solution is to replace the retaining clip and trim piece, or to replace the rails and adjust mechanism on the seat.
Failing light switch:
Replace the light switch assembly, this is due to a non*correctable mechanical failure in the switch. Please closely examine the plugs on the light switch, as this problem is usually accompanied by high voltages that melt the switch, plugs, and sometimes the wiring harness. If this is the case, replace the light switch wiring harness as well. The wiring harness and switch are available from MazdaTrix. The part number for the switch is "66*1700*FB01" and the harness is "66*1670*FB01". The switch is $225.30 and the harness is $65.75. MazdaTrix can be reached at (310)*426*7960. These parts can usually be acquired very cheaply at a junk yard. You can help prevent this problem from afflicting your car by disassembling the unit and resoldering everything inside it prior to failure.
Failing Wiper Switch (Gary)
First remove the binnacle that contains the switches, unplug the 3 large connectors, and take the unit in to the workbench for a close examination. Remove the wiper switch module by pulling the ***** off and unscrewing the 2 screws that secure the module to the plastic binnacle. Then lever off the white plastic cover over the circuit board (it is secured by tongues into the black plastic case). Then desolder the rows of pins that secure the circuit board to the three switches in the module and remove the circuit board. Now, lever the cover off the relay nearest the wiper switch end (careful, these relays are fragile inside) and examine the open contact, it may appear burnt. Dressed it up with some fine emery paper, gently push the outer fixed contact in a little to close the gap a fraction, and reassemble the whole mess. Viola! Your problem is solved.
The tricky part is identifying the pins of the switches that need to be desoldered to get the PCB out. They are all along the "inside" edge, in two rows clustered in three groups (about 14 contacts in all). One of the wiper switch contacts is particularly difficult to desolder, as there are two pins shoved through the same hole. Use Dri-wick (solderwick) or similar, unless you have desoldering equipment at hand. Use only a hot enough iron to do the job, too much heat will cause the tracks to lift off.
The switch is, of course, also available from MazdaTrix, and can be purchased very cheaply at a junk yard.
Replacing worn out shift lever bushings (David Disney and Jamey Moss)
The following info is for 86-88 Sevens, but the process is almost identical for the 1st gens, but some of the part numbers/bushings are different.
First, obtain some new shifter bushings. I'd suggest getting them from MazdaTrix, as your local dealer will charge you 2-3 times more, depending on the day of the week... and they won't have them in stock either. Anyway, the MazdaTrix part numbers are as follows:
99-1780-M505 ~$6.50
17-4810-8AF1 ~$6.50
1-800-426-TRIX
Next, you have to get to the old bushings:
1) There is a locknut just below the shifter ****. Take an adjustable wrench and turn it clockwise. The **** should now be lose and you can remove it and the locknut.
2) CAREFULLY pop off the shifter cover panel. It contains the leather boot and pops straight up as one piece. If you are not careful you will break the tabs off the panel. Also, do not pull on the leather boot... bad idea.
3) Now you can take a 10mm socket and a short extension and remove the 3 bolts that hold the shifter to the transmission. You may have to fish around in the myriad of rubber boots to get at them, but have patience and you'll be ok. After removing the 3 bolts, apply moderate upward pressure to the shifter lever. It is held in to its socket by a spring, so you may have to wiggle it a bit while you pull up on it.
4) So, now you should see the plastic bushings (or what's left of them). I would suggest fishing any chunks of old bushing out of the shifter housing.
5) Now you can look at the old bushing setup and get a good idea how the new ones should go. Its something like this: On the bottom of the shifter 'ball' there should be (going from bottom up) a spring washer, possibly another thin washer, and finally the plastic cup that the 'ball' sits it. On the top of the 'ball' they go in the opposite order. The tricky part is the top. You'll have to _carefully_ remove the rubber boot so that you can slide the bushing down over the shifter lever. I find that some Windex helps grease things up.
6) Assembly is the reverse of installation (duh, where have I heard that before?). When you put the shifter back in, be sure that the little notches in the 'ball' cups (no laughing!) line up with the slot in the shifter ball and the little **** in the shifter housing.
7) Put everything back together and you're done!
NOTE! You won't use all of the stuff that comes in the previously listed parts kits. Mazda apparently decided not to make a single 86-88 bushing kit, so you have to 'make your own' from these two kits. The parts to use are as follows:
Keep the blue bushing, the white bushing, one spring (the round metal piece with clips), and one gasket. Next, put the blue bushing on over the shifter with the rounded side of the bushing next to the large ball part of the shifter. Clip the spring to the white bushing (it only goes on one way), then put the white bushing, spring-side down, into the hole where the shifter goes, aligning the grooved part of the bushing with the aligning pin in the hole.
Section III
Tuning and Performance
Ignition Timing (Dave Henning)
I did the timing on my '86 sport recently. I didn't use a tachometer for 2 reasons:
1) I could not just go buy a tachometer and expect it to give a proper reading since they are all set for cylinder types of engines.
2) The tachometer on the dash seems to work just fine.
The timing only requires a light with the inductive coil on it. It should state this on the box and can be purchased at WalMart or store of your choice for <$30. Don't get the expensive ones with the dials they aren't worth it.
Hook the inductive coil around the leading wire to the front rotor. Then connect the other wires to the battery and ground. Loosen the bolt to the crank angle sensor. It is brass so be careful not to strip it. Do not remove the screws on the sensor plate, it does no good.
Turn on the engine and let it warm up to idle. Pull the trigger of the light and point at the pulley at the base of the crank angle sensor. There are 2 marks, yellow for leading and red for trailing. They may be difficult to distinguish. The timing light should be hooked close to the coil and not the spark plug.
There is a pin above the pulley to match the yellow mark to. If you cannot tell which color is which just turn the crank angle sensor (it pivots after you loosen that bolt) and get one of the marks set with the pin.
Disconnect the inductive coil and re-connect it to the trailing wire for the front rotor. Point the gun at the pulley again and squeeze the trigger. If there is a mark (should be red but maybe can't tell) lined up with the pin then you are done and should shut off the engine and tighten the bolt to the crank angle sensor. If the mark is _way_ off then you confused the colors and should redo the leading timing until the other mark is lined up properly, then redo the trailing timing.
If you cannot reconcile the marks to both line up properly, make sure you are using the proper wires. They are marked L1 and T1. If they still do not line up then ask more people on the list for advanced help. BE CAREFUL!!!! While adjusting the sensor the engine is at operating temps. This may cause you to want to use a rag to turn it and not burn your hand. However, the fan and some belts are in very tight proximity and could hurt you if you don't take care.
The Haynes manual pictures should point out the sensor. If you aren't sure where it is, it is on the driver's side and behind where the a/c and power steering (if you have it) pumps are located. It has a black cover with 2 screws on top. It is about 2-3" in diameter on top and smaller as it joins the engine. Good Luck, it takes about 1/2 hour even while you are learning. It took me more time to go buy the light.
Making a Throttle Position Sensor Test Lamp (Dana Sullivan)
You can make a test light yourself fairly easily. Take two turn signal bulbs or similar type lights and solder a piece of wire between the two cans of the bulbs. Take another length of wire and solder one end to one can. This wire is your common ground wire, this will attach to the Black w/white stripe wire (ground) on the gang plug.
There should be 2 wires running out of the two remaining connectors. Solder a piece of wire to the + terminal of each light bulb and run one each to the two remaining connectors.
Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment (Glenn Heidel)
1) Warm up the engine, then stop it.
2) Connect the checker lamp to the check connector (green).
3) Turn the ignition switch on and check whether one of the lamp illuminates.
4) If both lamps illuminate or if neither does, turn the throttle sensor adjust screw until one of the lamps illuminates.
a) If both lamps illuminate turn the adjust screw clockwise.
b) If both lamps do not illuminate turn the adjust screw counterclockwise.
I'd just like to add that I found the best results by turning the screw counter-clockwise until I obtained condition 4)a) above (both lit) then I turned the screw clockwise until one light went out + 1/8 turn of the screw. This assures the throttle is as close to actually closed as possible when the sensor indicates that condition to the computer. (Thus giving you the smoothest transition on/off idle.)
08-27-04 | 06:12 AM
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From: the colony, tx
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Sensor Diagram:
----
| |(A) (A) = Top
| -- | (B) = Bottom Right
- - (C) = Bottom Left
| |
(C)| | | |(B)
| |
--------
Note you can also use two DC volt meters; connect the positive leads of both volt meters to terminal A. Connect the negative terminal of one meter to C and the negative of the other to B. If you have basic point type probes on your volt meters, they will slide nicely into the connector and you don't need to build the test lamps. Put them into the position for measuring DC 12 volts (...or more) and away you go.
Adding an Aftermarket Alarm system (Shane Callaghan)
For those of you that have the Mazda security system, installing a quality aftermarket system is a simple job and effective protection. Disclaimer: The following is based on the factory system in my '88 Turbo, and may not be directly transferable to other models/years; confirm all connections, and don't call me if you fry something!
A few words on selecting an alarm:
There are many aftermarket alarm manufacturers; I won't presume to tell you which to choose, but a reasonably secure system requires some basic features. Consider the available security and convenience features, and pick one that meets your needs. Some features can be easily added, so when selecting an alarm, concentrate on the things you can't add (extra transmitter channels, pre-warning circuit, code jumping, anti-carjacking, etc.). One thing to consider: since 2nd gens do not have a lock motor in the driver's door, a power lock interface requires an external motor.
When you have chosen your alarm, much of the basic wiring can be done from the factory harness to the Mazda alarm. I would recommend replacing the Mazda unit with the aftermarket alarm - I ran parallel systems for awhile, but if the aftermarket system is designed and installed properly, the factory system is not necessary; it will be more likely to give you problems than protection.
Before tearing out the factory box, think about where you want the valet switch, LED, and glass break microphone. I find the LED works just fine in the blank panel next to the factory light (unless you have a convertible), which is also a good place for the glass break microphone, or you could use the factory light itself. The advantage to using a different LED is that a thief who knows the car will realize it has an aftermarket alarm, and may look elsewhere. If you have a convertible, you could replace the factory light with a blank panel (about $2 from Mazda). As for the valet switch, look for a place that is relatively easy to access, but not easy for a thief to find (although the valet switch will not compromise the alarm on most systems). There are some things about my system that I won't reveal - this is secret #1. Route both wires to the glove box area when both are mounted.
The factory alarm brain is screwed to the back of the panel beneath the glove box (which also houses 4" speaker and air vent). First, remove the glove box; there are 7 screws, three along the hinge, one on each side, and two on the catch. Pull the box straight out, reach behind and twist the light to remove. Remove the 5 screws holding the lower panel in place, and slide it towards the floor to remove. There are two air ducts attached to the panel; remove carefully to avoid cracking the plastic. The alarm brain is the steel box mounted to the left of the panel. Unplug the alarm connector (next to the recirc. air intake) and the speaker connector (if equipped), and remove the panel.
If you don't anticipate reinstalling the factory alarm (or if you don't mind reconnecting the cables), cut the harness close to the alarm box. This will allow you to wire the free ends to the aftermarket harness, and plug directly into the factory harness. Remove the factory alarm from the panel, and find a place to mount the aftermarket box. If it is small enough, it will attach (using wire ties) to the wiring harnesses and brackets at the top of the dash, just behind the windshield. This way, if a thief knows the car and gets this far, he won't find the box in the usual place. Make sure any DIP switches are set correctly, and all harnesses are connected to the brain before mounting it permanently. You will want to complete the connections and test everything before mounting permanently, so just hang it approximately where it will go for now.
Next step is installing the siren. You will want a location that provides good volume, keeps the siren where it won't gather water, and is not easily visible or accessible from under the hood (secret #2). Route the wire in or along the factory harnesses so that it is not visible. The siren wire should come through the firewall at the same location as the factory harness; I don't remember how difficult this was on the RX-7, but it is usually one of the least enjoyable parts of the job. If you don't intend to use the auxiliary alarm horn, you could use that wire (there is a separate horn for the alarm in the centre of the nose, to the left of the relays - you can also use the main horn for the alarm). If necessary, run the siren wire from the inside of the firewall along the dash to the glove box area.
You may want to add an interior piezo siren, or pain generator. This can be wired in parallel with the main siren, and will make it very unpleasant to be inside the car while the alarm is sounding. Mount the siren so it is loud, but not easily disabled by a thief (secret #3).
Now you can complete the wiring. Using the factory harness, and assuming your alarm has the appropriate features, you can easily wire a starter disable, flashing headlights (through the lenses) and hazard lights, pulsing horn, and gain access to the trigger for the doors, hood, and hatch. A flashing light output from your alarm is required for the lights and horn, but the relays are already in place. Wire your alarm as follows (colour diagram in Word) Be sure to use diodes to isolate current from the door, hood, and hatch triggers:
Colour Code:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
B Black L Blue O Orange
Br Brown W White R Red
G Green LG Light Green Y Yellow
If you intend to use a fuel cut relay (highly recommended), you can tap into the factory harness beside the dead pedal, next to the fuse box. The bottom of the three plugs contains the fuel pump wires. There are two blue wires which join shortly after the plug; you need to cut and switch both - either one will run the fuel pump. Wire the relay as follows:
You can also add additional flashing lights (brake, dome), additional siren(s), remote window roll-up and sunroof close, remote start, etc.
Adding Cruise Control (Ken)
To install cruise where there is none, you really only need three things.
1. instrument panel switch
actuator motor
control unit
The pieces I speak of are Mazda originals, taken from a junkyard, not new parts or some aftermarket contraption. l of the wiring for these parts exists on the car already. It is a simple "plug and play" procedure to hook everything up.
The actuator is located on top of the cold-start-assist reservoir. When you get all the parts from the junkyard, be sure to get the bracket that mounts the actuator to the firewall (non-cruise equipped cars do not have the bracket). I tapped a capped-off vacuum port above the exhaust manifold as a source for the actuator (after all the scrounging, I have come to believe that turbo cars use an all-electric actuator). Manifold vacuum is what pulls on the throttle cable to manipulate the throttle. The logic unit directs the actuator in this operation. Four wires attach to the actuator, in a plug which is already there and waiting for installation.
The control unit is attached to the kick panel next to the "cpu." (close to the "dead" pedal), two nuts are needed to hold it in place on the studs which are already there. A thirteen-wire connector is plugged in to the control unit. One of these wires goes to a speed sensor on the back of the speedometer, but it is already hooked up at that end.
The switch goes in the pod surrounding the gauges, next to the wiper switch (where the "blank" spot is). Contrary to what I have heard others say on the net, you DO NOT have to remove the steering wheel to get this piece off. Again, the wires are there and waiting.
I took switches for the brake and clutch pedals, although I discovered after installation that my brake switch is already hooked up. I haven't looked into the clutch switch yet (and doubt if I will), no one that drives my car is crazy enough to push in the clutch with the cruise on. :-)
I learned more about the way the control unit operates the actuator; anyone interested can drop me a line. All the parts cost me a total of $26.00 (!) with the exception of a new throttle cable I had to buy from Mazda ($31.00) because the people that pulled the motor from the RX-7 in the junkyard cut the cable.
Removing the turbo unit from a Turbo II (Rob Rike)
1. Remove Intercooler
2. Remove Air Box
3. Remove Air pump
4. Go ahead and disconnect lower radiator hose to drain radiator and get hose out of the way for now.
5. Remove the BAC valve and move it out of the way .
6. Remove the Air Control Valve and be careful not to lose the reed valve looking thing contained in it. If it does fall off, when reinstalling the small round piece goes into the engine side.
7. Jack the car up and get down to the dirty task of removing the heat shields. (DISCLAIMER::: They are a royal pain in the *** and I cut or broke the majority of mine off) The heat shield around the turbo will not come off until the pre-converter is removed and you can slide it out from underneath the car.
8. Unhook the split air pipe running from the Main Cat to the engine. It is secured to the engine by two nuts.
9. I went ahead and disconnected the middle exhaust system mounts and the rear ones since the pre-converter has to come off next. It will give you extra room to wedge it out.
10. Once the mounts are loose, take a 17mm deep well socket and remove the nuts connecting the pre-cat to the exhaust pipe.
11. Now it is time to remove the pre-cat. It is held in place by 3 bolts running to the Turbo's turbine housing. With the heat shields off, one is accessible from the top of the engine with a 14mm wrench (not enough room for a socket). The other 2 are accessible from under the engine. With one, I used some 14mm socket and extension combination and got to it fairly easy. The last one I used the same combination along with every extension bar I had plus a universal joint right behind the socket. I went up along the tranny tunnel at an angle and worked the socket onto it. Saves much frustration and scraped knuckles.
12. Make sure you have unplugged the O2 sensor and prepare to lower the cat. It is heavier than it looks so don't drop it on your head.
13. Now it is time to disconnect the assorted coolant and oil lines to the turbo.
a. (TIP- The tire iron in the back of the car is the perfect size to fit the nut on the coolant pipe flange bolt) Disconnect the flange bolt and then disconnect the 2 nuts that secure the pipe to the engine.
b. Disconnect the oil line fitting with a 17 mm wrench and a pair of vise grips on the other bolt.
c. Disconnect the oil drain line. It is a braided hose with 2 10mm bolts securing it to the engine mounting.
d. Finally, disconnect the coolant return line. It is a rubber hose running into what looks to be the water pump. It is a 90 degree hose and now is a good time to replace it.
14. With everything presumably loose or disconnected, it is time to remove the turbo. It is held in place with 4 14mm bolts to the exhaust manifold. A combination of 14mm socket and extension bars with get the right to bolts from above the car and then crawl under and remove the left two with a wrench.
15. You should now be able to lift the turbo up and out of the engine. It takes some twisting and wedging but trust me, that is the only way that bastard is coming out of there.
Installing the Turbo unit in a Turbo II (Rob Rike)
1. Sit the turbo back on top of the exhaust housing and make sure that the compressor intake pipe lines up and does not hit the engine anywhere, etc. Assuming all is correct, go ahead and put the two right hand side bolts of the turbo on and finger tighten them. Then get under the car and finger tighten the left two on and go ahead and snug down the lower left one. Get back up top and snug down the upper right one and then back under for the upper left one. You guessed it, back up to the top and tighten the lower right one and that baby is back on.
2. Now is a good time to go under the car and insert the main heat shield up in its approximate position. It is almost impossible to do from above the car.
3. Go ahead and put the pre-cat back on the car and bolt it down tight.
4. Rehook all of the hoses to the turbo that you disconnected. When reconnecting the coolant line that faces the passenger side of the car, make sure you connect the end that goes to the engine first!!!!! (Trust me here, I busted the bolts off the intake manifold end while trying to torque these down to stop a leak. The flange bolt is a lot stronger than the 6.0 X 1.0 mm bolt studs. If for some reason you do break one along the way, you should be able to get it out with a pair of vise grips, it is not very tight. Replace it with a 6.0 X 1.0 bolt of appropriate length)
5. Go ahead and connect the oil lines and other fittings to the turbo (I used a little liquid Teflon tape on the oil pipe fitting)
6. Re-connect the hoses that you removed and go ahead and refill and air bleed the radiator.
7. Go underneath, reconnect the exhaust pipe to the pre-cat and re-attach all of the system hangars.
8. Double check all of your fittings and make sure all hoses are tight. Watch that coolant pipe going to the turbo for leaks.
9. Since the Turbo has probably been removed to be rebuilt, I would go ahead and remove the EGI fuse and crank the engine over for several seconds to get some oil into the turbo bearings. You don't want to start it up and have that fast idle thing kick it up to 3,000 rpm's on dry bearings. For that matter, when you do start it you may want to leave it in first to prevent the fast idle.
10. Once the engine starts to warm up a bit the turbo will probably start to smoke under the hood. I am told this is normal as new oil used during rebuilding burns off the housings and as the solvents heat up and burn off. Just keep an eye out for oil and coolant leaks and let it idle for about 15 minutes before driving it. This way you can be sure the bearings have plenty of oil.
Aftermarket Performance
Non-Turbo Performance Modifications -Street Legal
Exhaust
86-88
Racing Beat "PowerPulse" high performance muffler system, >5 hp.
HKS Sport Exhaust, 8hp
Mariah (Design Energy)-HKS "Cat-Back" Exhaust, 15% increase=21.9hp
MazdaTrix Exhaust, "Noticeable" (HKS?)
89-92
Racing Beat "PowerPulse" high performance muffler system, >5hp.
HKS Sport Exhaust, 8hp
Mariah (Design Energy) HKS "Cat-Back" Exhaust, 15% increase=24hp
MazdaTrix Exhaust, "Noticeable" (HKS?)
Intake
86-92
HKS "PowerFlow", 9hp
Mariah (Design Energy) Nelson/Paxton Supercharger, 50% increase=73hp (86-88)/80hp (89-92)
Other
Mariah (Design Energy) Electric fan/shroud package, up to 12hp.
Non-Turbo Performance Modifications-Off Road Only
Exhaust
MazdaTrix Dual PreSilencer Exhaust, ~30@Wheel horsepower
Racing Beat PowerPulse Presilencer (replaces Catalytic Converters), 18hp (with stock cat-back exhaust)
Intake
Cartech/Mariah turbo Pkg., up to 129hp (86-88)/up to 115hp (89-92)
Mikuni 44mm Side Draft carburetor
Weber 48mm/51mm Down Draft carburetor
MazdaTrix supercharger Kit, up to 154hp
Second Generation RX-7 Turbo II Performance Upgrades (Trey Cobb)
The layout of this list is as follows: Upgrades are ordered roughly in the order that you should do you upgrades. All upgrades can be done seperately but often, one part will not do much for you unless you install the next part that complements it. These groups of parts are commonly refered to as "Stages". HKS has probably the best organization of stages and even if you don't use all their parts, you can get the general idea of how you should upgrade.
A few things everyone must think of when they want to upgrade their RX-7 is:
1) How much money are you willing to spend?
2) What will you sacrifice first: price, reliablity or power?
3) How street drivable do you want the car?
4) Street Legal Power or Not?
5) Could you not spend you money FIXING the car instead?
Remember, these part's manufactures are businesses, and a business's main function is to make money so they will tell you close to anything for you to buy their product. Luckily there are some reputable companies out there, and the RX-7 producers are on the most part reputable.
Now, on to the parts. After talking hours with many different RX-7 mechanics, this is a general "Stage" list for upgrading it. This takes into consideration that your car is basically in "as-new" Stock condition. This means that everything from the clutch to the fuel injectors are working close to how they did off the show-room floor. If anything is in question, inspect and/or replace it.
Stages for Upgrading
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
1) Exhaust
2) Intake
3) ECU / Fuel Systems
4) Intercooler
From what I've gathered from other RX-7 owners and mechanics, here is a modification / psi list. Basically, if you want to run x psi, you need to do all modifications up to and including that psi's mod. in order to keep the engine and everything else safe.
Stock: 87-88 -> 5.5psi(6.2max)
89-91 -> 7.5psi(8.6max?)
Note: At 8.6psi fuel is cut off from the rear rotor so something needs to be done about that if you plan on more boost.
New Psi System to Upgrade
------- -----------------
8-10psi ECU/Fuel System
12 psi Intercooler
14.5psi Engine
I have NO exact numbers for when each of these items should be changed. Everyone seems to have their own idea on how the Turbo II should be properly modified, usually depending on what they had to sell.
1) Exhaust
[ Introductoin | Problems with the RX-7 | How To Fix ]
Sensor Diagram:
----
| |(A) (A) = Top
| -- | (B) = Bottom Right
- - (C) = Bottom Left
| |
(C)| | | |(B)
| |
--------
Note you can also use two DC volt meters; connect the positive leads of both volt meters to terminal A. Connect the negative terminal of one meter to C and the negative of the other to B. If you have basic point type probes on your volt meters, they will slide nicely into the connector and you don't need to build the test lamps. Put them into the position for measuring DC 12 volts (...or more) and away you go.
Adding an Aftermarket Alarm system (Shane Callaghan)
For those of you that have the Mazda security system, installing a quality aftermarket system is a simple job and effective protection. Disclaimer: The following is based on the factory system in my '88 Turbo, and may not be directly transferable to other models/years; confirm all connections, and don't call me if you fry something!
A few words on selecting an alarm:
There are many aftermarket alarm manufacturers; I won't presume to tell you which to choose, but a reasonably secure system requires some basic features. Consider the available security and convenience features, and pick one that meets your needs. Some features can be easily added, so when selecting an alarm, concentrate on the things you can't add (extra transmitter channels, pre-warning circuit, code jumping, anti-carjacking, etc.). One thing to consider: since 2nd gens do not have a lock motor in the driver's door, a power lock interface requires an external motor.
When you have chosen your alarm, much of the basic wiring can be done from the factory harness to the Mazda alarm. I would recommend replacing the Mazda unit with the aftermarket alarm - I ran parallel systems for awhile, but if the aftermarket system is designed and installed properly, the factory system is not necessary; it will be more likely to give you problems than protection.
Before tearing out the factory box, think about where you want the valet switch, LED, and glass break microphone. I find the LED works just fine in the blank panel next to the factory light (unless you have a convertible), which is also a good place for the glass break microphone, or you could use the factory light itself. The advantage to using a different LED is that a thief who knows the car will realize it has an aftermarket alarm, and may look elsewhere. If you have a convertible, you could replace the factory light with a blank panel (about $2 from Mazda). As for the valet switch, look for a place that is relatively easy to access, but not easy for a thief to find (although the valet switch will not compromise the alarm on most systems). There are some things about my system that I won't reveal - this is secret #1. Route both wires to the glove box area when both are mounted.
The factory alarm brain is screwed to the back of the panel beneath the glove box (which also houses 4" speaker and air vent). First, remove the glove box; there are 7 screws, three along the hinge, one on each side, and two on the catch. Pull the box straight out, reach behind and twist the light to remove. Remove the 5 screws holding the lower panel in place, and slide it towards the floor to remove. There are two air ducts attached to the panel; remove carefully to avoid cracking the plastic. The alarm brain is the steel box mounted to the left of the panel. Unplug the alarm connector (next to the recirc. air intake) and the speaker connector (if equipped), and remove the panel.
If you don't anticipate reinstalling the factory alarm (or if you don't mind reconnecting the cables), cut the harness close to the alarm box. This will allow you to wire the free ends to the aftermarket harness, and plug directly into the factory harness. Remove the factory alarm from the panel, and find a place to mount the aftermarket box. If it is small enough, it will attach (using wire ties) to the wiring harnesses and brackets at the top of the dash, just behind the windshield. This way, if a thief knows the car and gets this far, he won't find the box in the usual place. Make sure any DIP switches are set correctly, and all harnesses are connected to the brain before mounting it permanently. You will want to complete the connections and test everything before mounting permanently, so just hang it approximately where it will go for now.
Next step is installing the siren. You will want a location that provides good volume, keeps the siren where it won't gather water, and is not easily visible or accessible from under the hood (secret #2). Route the wire in or along the factory harnesses so that it is not visible. The siren wire should come through the firewall at the same location as the factory harness; I don't remember how difficult this was on the RX-7, but it is usually one of the least enjoyable parts of the job. If you don't intend to use the auxiliary alarm horn, you could use that wire (there is a separate horn for the alarm in the centre of the nose, to the left of the relays - you can also use the main horn for the alarm). If necessary, run the siren wire from the inside of the firewall along the dash to the glove box area.
You may want to add an interior piezo siren, or pain generator. This can be wired in parallel with the main siren, and will make it very unpleasant to be inside the car while the alarm is sounding. Mount the siren so it is loud, but not easily disabled by a thief (secret #3).
Now you can complete the wiring. Using the factory harness, and assuming your alarm has the appropriate features, you can easily wire a starter disable, flashing headlights (through the lenses) and hazard lights, pulsing horn, and gain access to the trigger for the doors, hood, and hatch. A flashing light output from your alarm is required for the lights and horn, but the relays are already in place. Wire your alarm as follows (colour diagram in Word) Be sure to use diodes to isolate current from the door, hood, and hatch triggers:
Colour Code:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
B Black L Blue O Orange
Br Brown W White R Red
G Green LG Light Green Y Yellow
If you intend to use a fuel cut relay (highly recommended), you can tap into the factory harness beside the dead pedal, next to the fuse box. The bottom of the three plugs contains the fuel pump wires. There are two blue wires which join shortly after the plug; you need to cut and switch both - either one will run the fuel pump. Wire the relay as follows:
You can also add additional flashing lights (brake, dome), additional siren(s), remote window roll-up and sunroof close, remote start, etc.
Adding Cruise Control (Ken)
To install cruise where there is none, you really only need three things.
1. instrument panel switch
actuator motor
control unit
The pieces I speak of are Mazda originals, taken from a junkyard, not new parts or some aftermarket contraption. l of the wiring for these parts exists on the car already. It is a simple "plug and play" procedure to hook everything up.
The actuator is located on top of the cold-start-assist reservoir. When you get all the parts from the junkyard, be sure to get the bracket that mounts the actuator to the firewall (non-cruise equipped cars do not have the bracket). I tapped a capped-off vacuum port above the exhaust manifold as a source for the actuator (after all the scrounging, I have come to believe that turbo cars use an all-electric actuator). Manifold vacuum is what pulls on the throttle cable to manipulate the throttle. The logic unit directs the actuator in this operation. Four wires attach to the actuator, in a plug which is already there and waiting for installation.
The control unit is attached to the kick panel next to the "cpu." (close to the "dead" pedal), two nuts are needed to hold it in place on the studs which are already there. A thirteen-wire connector is plugged in to the control unit. One of these wires goes to a speed sensor on the back of the speedometer, but it is already hooked up at that end.
The switch goes in the pod surrounding the gauges, next to the wiper switch (where the "blank" spot is). Contrary to what I have heard others say on the net, you DO NOT have to remove the steering wheel to get this piece off. Again, the wires are there and waiting.
I took switches for the brake and clutch pedals, although I discovered after installation that my brake switch is already hooked up. I haven't looked into the clutch switch yet (and doubt if I will), no one that drives my car is crazy enough to push in the clutch with the cruise on. :-)
I learned more about the way the control unit operates the actuator; anyone interested can drop me a line. All the parts cost me a total of $26.00 (!) with the exception of a new throttle cable I had to buy from Mazda ($31.00) because the people that pulled the motor from the RX-7 in the junkyard cut the cable.
Removing the turbo unit from a Turbo II (Rob Rike)
1. Remove Intercooler
2. Remove Air Box
3. Remove Air pump
4. Go ahead and disconnect lower radiator hose to drain radiator and get hose out of the way for now.
5. Remove the BAC valve and move it out of the way .
6. Remove the Air Control Valve and be careful not to lose the reed valve looking thing contained in it. If it does fall off, when reinstalling the small round piece goes into the engine side.
7. Jack the car up and get down to the dirty task of removing the heat shields. (DISCLAIMER::: They are a royal pain in the *** and I cut or broke the majority of mine off) The heat shield around the turbo will not come off until the pre-converter is removed and you can slide it out from underneath the car.
8. Unhook the split air pipe running from the Main Cat to the engine. It is secured to the engine by two nuts.
9. I went ahead and disconnected the middle exhaust system mounts and the rear ones since the pre-converter has to come off next. It will give you extra room to wedge it out.
10. Once the mounts are loose, take a 17mm deep well socket and remove the nuts connecting the pre-cat to the exhaust pipe.
11. Now it is time to remove the pre-cat. It is held in place by 3 bolts running to the Turbo's turbine housing. With the heat shields off, one is accessible from the top of the engine with a 14mm wrench (not enough room for a socket). The other 2 are accessible from under the engine. With one, I used some 14mm socket and extension combination and got to it fairly easy. The last one I used the same combination along with every extension bar I had plus a universal joint right behind the socket. I went up along the tranny tunnel at an angle and worked the socket onto it. Saves much frustration and scraped knuckles.
12. Make sure you have unplugged the O2 sensor and prepare to lower the cat. It is heavier than it looks so don't drop it on your head.
13. Now it is time to disconnect the assorted coolant and oil lines to the turbo.
a. (TIP- The tire iron in the back of the car is the perfect size to fit the nut on the coolant pipe flange bolt) Disconnect the flange bolt and then disconnect the 2 nuts that secure the pipe to the engine.
b. Disconnect the oil line fitting with a 17 mm wrench and a pair of vise grips on the other bolt.
c. Disconnect the oil drain line. It is a braided hose with 2 10mm bolts securing it to the engine mounting.
d. Finally, disconnect the coolant return line. It is a rubber hose running into what looks to be the water pump. It is a 90 degree hose and now is a good time to replace it.
14. With everything presumably loose or disconnected, it is time to remove the turbo. It is held in place with 4 14mm bolts to the exhaust manifold. A combination of 14mm socket and extension bars with get the right to bolts from above the car and then crawl under and remove the left two with a wrench.
15. You should now be able to lift the turbo up and out of the engine. It takes some twisting and wedging but trust me, that is the only way that bastard is coming out of there.
Installing the Turbo unit in a Turbo II (Rob Rike)
1. Sit the turbo back on top of the exhaust housing and make sure that the compressor intake pipe lines up and does not hit the engine anywhere, etc. Assuming all is correct, go ahead and put the two right hand side bolts of the turbo on and finger tighten them. Then get under the car and finger tighten the left two on and go ahead and snug down the lower left one. Get back up top and snug down the upper right one and then back under for the upper left one. You guessed it, back up to the top and tighten the lower right one and that baby is back on.
2. Now is a good time to go under the car and insert the main heat shield up in its approximate position. It is almost impossible to do from above the car.
3. Go ahead and put the pre-cat back on the car and bolt it down tight.
4. Rehook all of the hoses to the turbo that you disconnected. When reconnecting the coolant line that faces the passenger side of the car, make sure you connect the end that goes to the engine first!!!!! (Trust me here, I busted the bolts off the intake manifold end while trying to torque these down to stop a leak. The flange bolt is a lot stronger than the 6.0 X 1.0 mm bolt studs. If for some reason you do break one along the way, you should be able to get it out with a pair of vise grips, it is not very tight. Replace it with a 6.0 X 1.0 bolt of appropriate length)
5. Go ahead and connect the oil lines and other fittings to the turbo (I used a little liquid Teflon tape on the oil pipe fitting)
6. Re-connect the hoses that you removed and go ahead and refill and air bleed the radiator.
7. Go underneath, reconnect the exhaust pipe to the pre-cat and re-attach all of the system hangars.
8. Double check all of your fittings and make sure all hoses are tight. Watch that coolant pipe going to the turbo for leaks.
9. Since the Turbo has probably been removed to be rebuilt, I would go ahead and remove the EGI fuse and crank the engine over for several seconds to get some oil into the turbo bearings. You don't want to start it up and have that fast idle thing kick it up to 3,000 rpm's on dry bearings. For that matter, when you do start it you may want to leave it in first to prevent the fast idle.
10. Once the engine starts to warm up a bit the turbo will probably start to smoke under the hood. I am told this is normal as new oil used during rebuilding burns off the housings and as the solvents heat up and burn off. Just keep an eye out for oil and coolant leaks and let it idle for about 15 minutes before driving it. This way you can be sure the bearings have plenty of oil.
Aftermarket Performance
Non-Turbo Performance Modifications -Street Legal
Exhaust
86-88
Racing Beat "PowerPulse" high performance muffler system, >5 hp.
HKS Sport Exhaust, 8hp
Mariah (Design Energy)-HKS "Cat-Back" Exhaust, 15% increase=21.9hp
MazdaTrix Exhaust, "Noticeable" (HKS?)
89-92
Racing Beat "PowerPulse" high performance muffler system, >5hp.
HKS Sport Exhaust, 8hp
Mariah (Design Energy) HKS "Cat-Back" Exhaust, 15% increase=24hp
MazdaTrix Exhaust, "Noticeable" (HKS?)
Intake
86-92
HKS "PowerFlow", 9hp
Mariah (Design Energy) Nelson/Paxton Supercharger, 50% increase=73hp (86-88)/80hp (89-92)
Other
Mariah (Design Energy) Electric fan/shroud package, up to 12hp.
Non-Turbo Performance Modifications-Off Road Only
Exhaust
MazdaTrix Dual PreSilencer Exhaust, ~30@Wheel horsepower
Racing Beat PowerPulse Presilencer (replaces Catalytic Converters), 18hp (with stock cat-back exhaust)
Intake
Cartech/Mariah turbo Pkg., up to 129hp (86-88)/up to 115hp (89-92)
Mikuni 44mm Side Draft carburetor
Weber 48mm/51mm Down Draft carburetor
MazdaTrix supercharger Kit, up to 154hp
Second Generation RX-7 Turbo II Performance Upgrades (Trey Cobb)
The layout of this list is as follows: Upgrades are ordered roughly in the order that you should do you upgrades. All upgrades can be done seperately but often, one part will not do much for you unless you install the next part that complements it. These groups of parts are commonly refered to as "Stages". HKS has probably the best organization of stages and even if you don't use all their parts, you can get the general idea of how you should upgrade.
A few things everyone must think of when they want to upgrade their RX-7 is:
1) How much money are you willing to spend?
2) What will you sacrifice first: price, reliablity or power?
3) How street drivable do you want the car?
4) Street Legal Power or Not?
5) Could you not spend you money FIXING the car instead?
Remember, these part's manufactures are businesses, and a business's main function is to make money so they will tell you close to anything for you to buy their product. Luckily there are some reputable companies out there, and the RX-7 producers are on the most part reputable.
Now, on to the parts. After talking hours with many different RX-7 mechanics, this is a general "Stage" list for upgrading it. This takes into consideration that your car is basically in "as-new" Stock condition. This means that everything from the clutch to the fuel injectors are working close to how they did off the show-room floor. If anything is in question, inspect and/or replace it.
Stages for Upgrading
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
1) Exhaust
2) Intake
3) ECU / Fuel Systems
4) Intercooler
From what I've gathered from other RX-7 owners and mechanics, here is a modification / psi list. Basically, if you want to run x psi, you need to do all modifications up to and including that psi's mod. in order to keep the engine and everything else safe.
Stock: 87-88 -> 5.5psi(6.2max)
89-91 -> 7.5psi(8.6max?)
Note: At 8.6psi fuel is cut off from the rear rotor so something needs to be done about that if you plan on more boost.
New Psi System to Upgrade
------- -----------------
8-10psi ECU/Fuel System
12 psi Intercooler
14.5psi Engine
I have NO exact numbers for when each of these items should be changed. Everyone seems to have their own idea on how the Turbo II should be properly modified, usually depending on what they had to sell.
1) Exhaust
[ Introductoin | Problems with the RX-7 | How To Fix ]
08-27-04 | 06:18 AM
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 0
From: Millville, NJ
Great copy and paste, but most people here have already taken their turbos off and know the proper upgrade paths to take, it's discussed quite a bit.. Try searching, I search a ton, and still have questions..
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