Orb

iTrader: (3)

Ok, so... I leave Washington in just under 2 weeks for college in Phoenix
and have been trying to get this thing running... Started the swap 1 month ago
and am RUNNING OUT OF TIME!!!!

Having problems getting this thing to run right. I have fouled 2 sets of plugs already.

I have a walbro 255 pump and it is supplying about 38psi at idle.
AFR is hovering around 11...
Also have rtek 2.0 and have adjusted the fuel map down 37.5% and AFR
is still around 12.5-13.
I was under the impression that fuel pressure should be about 43.5psi?
If so then why am I running so rich?
What AFR should I shoot for when idleing? Cruising? Power?
I have 5/16" fuel line size for feed and return all the way INTO the tank.
Pulled the smaller one out and put in a new larger return into the actual
tank so that I would have 5/16" all around...

Another possiblity is my turbo is leaking a lot of oil. Enough to make it smoke a fair
amound and drip down the middle side of the turbine housing as well.
Though it only starts smoking after it warms up... So it's gotta be the turbo right?
Could this affect my AFR reading? If it is then why are my plugs fouling?


Can I rebuild this turbo? Can I just buy new oil seals somewhere?
I have been unable to find any...

Another interesting thing is... My lower intake mani has one water passage
and the other one is just not there on the LIM... But IS there on the rear housing!
Why would the housing have it but the LIM NOT have it?

My fuel pressure actually goes DOWN when I rev the engine and I thought
it was supposed to go UP?
What should it be at idle?

My turbo oil feed line is coming from the top left side of the front side housing
(As seen from drivers seat). Is that correct?

If my BAC isn't working would that make for a rich idle?
And I also can't seem to get my idle down below 1200rpm...???
I've looked into the hole on the BAC where there is supposed to be a screw
but can't see one... Is it way inside or something?

I'm quite sure I don't have a vac leak cause when I introduce a vac leak it changes idle speed a lot! And if I introduce a 2nd vac leak it doesn't change things much more so...



Thanks in advance.
Orb

Orb

iTrader: (3)

I'm in DIRE NEED of answers to these questions... Anyone? Please?

Orb

iTrader: (3)

Ok, so I got a turbo rebuild kit on the way from g-pop...

But still wondering about the other questions...

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

lower the fuel pressure. stock it sits at like... 32

also, you are asking tons of questions getting confused about the most pressing issue.

is your timing correct? are you sure you dont have a vac leak? pressure test on the intake? are your fuel injectors good?did you try turning the variable resistor?

where does your car idle at? what afr?

soo many questions. one thing at a time man.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Stock FPR? Walbros overwhelm the stock FPR and drive fuel pressure up. Stock fuel pressure at idle is around 28-32 psi (remember 15-20 inHg of vacuum is applied to the FPR). With no vacuum/pressure applied (0 manifold pressure), fuel pressure should be about 8-10 psi higher, and then with boost applied, 1 psi for each lb. of boost. But the walbro will change all of this and alter fuel pressure all over the place. You'll have to adjust the variable resistor towards lean to get the injector duty cycles down. Aim for about 12.5-13.0 AFR at idle.

If your fuel pressure drops some as you rev the engine, that may just be the pressure evening out as demand increases. The FPR has an easier job when more flow is necessary.

If you have oil leaking into the compressor side, it will be burning in the engine. This could foul plugs. It would be best to have a shop rebuild it, so the rotating assembly can be rebalanced.

It sounds like the water feed passageway for the turbo. The turbo only needs one feed source, so the front housing passage is blocked off.

Yes, it comes from a hardline connected to the front iron.

No, the BAC won't really affect mixture. The variable resistor can. If there is no idle adjust screw on the BAC, you probably have one from an NA car.

Orb

iTrader: (3)

What's this variable resistor you speak of? You talking about the Fuel Pump Resistor Relay?
I don't have one...


Oh, and another question... lol
Since I don't have the little green test connector that you ground and then set your timing, (since is a s5 into 1st gen swap)
which ECU pin is it that needs grounded?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Use the 2nd gen FSM. ECU pinouts and an explanation of what the variable resistor is are both covered in the Fuel and Emissions section. Even if you don't have one plugged into your harness, the actual resistor is disabled by the Rtek 2.0. Instead, you control it with the Rtek software. Go to the setup drop-down menu and adjust idle mixture. This is also where you can use the software to jump the initial set coupler (the green plug you mentioned). You do not adjust the fuel maps to change idle mixture; use the variable resistor settings.