Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

alright. i have a few questions.
first off what are the BEST oil brand to by from for a 1990 n/a vert. also should it be synthetic or no?

second. what do you guys think about lucas treatment fluid for oil and tranny?

third, what is the best transmission fluid to put in the same car. and if synthetic is ok?

fourth. the car shifts in the 5k area in 1st to 2nd. is that ok?

alright yeah thats it. thanks.

LiL Red FC3S

no synthetic at all, use a 20w50 for oil. i just put in Redline manual tranny fluid for the tranny and rear end. auto tranny use Red line auto tranny fluid. and manual redline for the rear.

Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

alright thanks man.

Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

one more question. what do you mean by rear end?

LiL Red FC3S

As in the rear end differential. um have you ever did a tranny and rear end fluid change before???

LiL Red FC3S

oh and depending how hot it is where you live i'd run 60w for oil during the summer months.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

All of the brands listed in the FAQ are very good. Avoid using low quality synthetics for the motor oil, since they supposedly leave more deposits in a rotary engine.

There is motor oil, tranny oil and differential oil. Personally I'd go Royal Purple for all 3 because it has less friction for a slight gain in HP & mpg. The other good quality synthetic brands each have their advantages too. All of them can withstand fairly tough conditions.

If you don't go synthetic, any API certified mineral oil will work just great for normal street use, and it'll be cheaper too.

EDIT: Oh yeah, Lucas oil is extra high viscosity. People with old leaky cars like it b/c it's like molasses. But I'd stay away from it.

Shifting: For best gas mileage, shift between 2500 and 4000rpm. The higher your throttle, the later you shift. If your shift light still works, it will tell you the same thing. Contrary to popular belief high throttle doesn't hurt mileage, though other aggressive habits might. For best power, simply shift at the redline. Rotaries can handle high rpms just fine, and in fact you should run them at high revs from time to time to help keep them clean.

micah

http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/R...id_Master_List

highly suggest you read the faq on this site.

Check out the rest of rotorwiki for more information.

LiL Red FC3S

i've been told by allot of people that Royal Purple is good but not as good as redline for tranny and rearend. but for oil if you want to pay 8 dollars a quart is excellent. one of my friends put Royal Purple in one of his FB's and put Redline in his other one and the one with the Redline seems to be a little bit more responsive. It's all debateable either way your paying over 50 dollars for fluids to do your tranny and rearend. take 4.2 pints for the tranny which is 2.135 quarts. and the rear end you fill til it comes out the filler plug. I used 5 quarts between flushing and filling.

LiL Red FC3S

oh rearend and tranny drain bolts are 23mm... if that helps before you start and have the car level.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Royal Purple gives slightly more power according to a dyno, I believe. Feel isn't a good measure, b/c we're only talking about a couple HP here. OTOH it's possible that Redline can handle more extreme conditions, since a lot of racers seem to like it. I've also heard anecdotal stories of Redline holding up under extreme conditions when other oils simply breakdown and fail. Redline's great stuff, but just b/c something is more expensive doesn't mean it's any better or any worse. Might as well break down the other brands now:

Mobil 1: Pretty durable, and decently priced. The new Acura RDX is the first turbocharged Honda, I think. And what does Honda recommend, Honda motor oil like all their other cars? Nope, after much testing of various brands they decided on Mobil 1. Also popular among reliability nuts. If you leave the sports car forums and go to their forums, they'll talk about Mobil 1 & AMS like the people here talk about Redline.

AMS: Extremely high level of detergents and acid neutralizers makes this the cleanest and longest lasting. AMS guarantees their oil to last 25,000 miles without an oil change as long as you also use their oil filter. AMS & Mobil 1 make a couple of the best oil filters, btw. Both filter extremely well, though AMS lasts even longer than the Mobil 1 filter.

Neo: Unfortunately I don't know anything about this brand, except that they and RP make really good tranny oils. Shifts quick and prevents grinding; rather than merely focusing on one or the other.

I should also note that your car probably won't face extreme conditions, so such a high level of protection may be totally unnecessary. Going fancy for the tranny & diff may be affordable enough, but you might want to get an API certified dino oil for the motor. The higher the letter after the J, the better (JM is on top now, I think). Up to you. I only use RP b/c I plan on changing it every 7500+ miles. That's common in other countries, but most Americans are horrified at the thought.

xclusive_one

from experience and research I use castrol gtx 20-50w for the engine... and NEO synthetic 75-90 for the transmission and lsd from mazdatrix... they recommened the stuff and I've heard nothing but good things... i tried it and I'm happy with the results... only part that sucks is that its about $12 a quart... well good luck

Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

dang this is very imformative. thanks. but yeah i have changed transmission fluid on a car before. but never the rear end differential. and i have only had this rx7 for about a week or so. so im trying to do the best tune up and putting the stuff in it right now.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Changing the diff oil is exactly like changing the tranny oil. It's a piece of cake. Some oils are even compatible with both the tranny and the diff. Just gotta make sure the oil is LSD compatible or you need to put in an additive.

Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

alright thanks bro.

Icemark

Before you do anything, make sure you can remove the fill plugs before removing the drain plugs.

Andrizzanizz

iTrader: (1)

what are the fill plugs? ha stupid question probably but idk.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

There have been EXTENSIVE debates on the subjects that you're asking about. Searching will yield far better results than listening to some of the people in this thread.

The fill plugs are where you pump in the new oil. They'll be farther up (vertically) than the drain plug... obviously...

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I would take "racer's" advice with a few grains of salt for a couple of reasons:

-if they are sponsored, whoever is giving them product is going to be making the best stuff ever...at least in their eyes.

-race vehicles receive a level of care and attention that the average street car can only dream of. If you're changing fluids every weekend, any of the high end products will perform pretty well.

-racers, especially true privateers, are at least as swayed by peer pressure as Joe Schmoe..."Car #10 always kicks my *** and he uses product X, so I'm gonna try it too!".

-finally, race cars operate under conditions that a street car will rarely-if ever- experience and what works well at that level may be totally inappropriate for what you do.

None of this is to say that info from the track is useless, just that discretion must be exercised when evaluating it.