Originally Posted by jackhild59

t2ae:
Don't sell imperfect parts except to friends. Hell, if I were you I would give him his money back and get that turbo so someone who will appreciate it.

-RotorDemon-
Don't buy parts that are imperfect. Learn to work on your own ****, not rely on an unnamed 'very reputable shop'. Man-up and take some responsibility for your part in any transaction. Used as-is parts are used as-is parts. Used as-is parts are sometimes, often times a smokin' deal compared to the same item new. Sometime it doesn't work out. Look for solutions rather than point fingers. Understand the seller in this case has already been accused by you of fraud in another thread that ended up showcasing your incompetence, thus ending in an apology from you. He is rightly skeptical by your current accusations. So is nearly everyone else.


Now: Questions that have not been asked in either thread. Your profile says you have been on this board for about 2-3 years and you have 100+/- posts. A quick looksie at your posts doesn't show any posts indicating high level of technical knowledge or undertakings ( https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-drive-998457/ ) Since you started by telling everyone how much experience you have with rotaries, no one has asked you the very basic questions below. You may be a guy who just lurks, works and doesn't post, so if these questions make your *** hurt, sorry.

Was that your reputable shop that set it up that way, or your own work? Your previous thread ( https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...w-off-1016030/ ) says in the first post that the turbo boosts to stock levels, but you blamed the seller for a junk turbo since it puked oil. That thread ended with you acknowledging an installation/set up problem. Who is to know that your set-up doesn't still have flaws?

Have you even TESTED for a boost leak, removed the turbo and checked the exhaust gaskets, completely blocked off the ebay knock off bov etc? Some pretty expert guys on here have advised that the most likely problem is a preturbo exhaust leak or a bov leak-based on your picture of the turbo you have and the video you posted.

Get serious with diagnosing the problem.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by -RotorDemon-

Bryan was aware of this thread via email this his reply on page one.

Note that the Stage 4 uses a 60-1 comrpessor wheel/P trim turbine wheel whereas the one I received has a .70. It's not a BNR rebuild.

Originally Posted by -RotorDemon-

I just put my stock rebuilt (by me) parts from the G-Pop shop with the 360 degree thrust bearing and step gap piston ring back on the car and it boosts just fine.. Hell I even passed emissions with almost zero readings. Got tags and back to basics.

Originally Posted by RotaryRocket88

0.70 is the A/R of the compressor housing, which is pretty common on BNRs I've seen. This has nothing to do with the wheels inside the turbo. You need to check facts better before going off on people with wild accusations.



So you removed the turbo and replaced the bearings with parts you already had? If so, how did the rotating assembly spin by hand before rebuilding it? Did either wheel contact the housings, or was there any visible damage besides the inducer wear disclosed at the time of the sale and obvious from the non-Knightsports pictures in this thread.

As mentioned earlier in this thread, a turbo is not a complicated device. As long as the rotating assembly spins freely, the wastegate is functioning properly and there are no boost/exhaust leaks, it will make boost. The video you posted makes it sound like the turbo spooling was very loud inside the car. A leak on the intake or exhaust side will cause that, as well as keep it from spinning to full speed. It's not clear from the posts in this thread that you did any sort of troubleshooting despite this being suggested. Blocking off the BOV, checking intercooler couplers and exhaust manifold nuts should have been the first things you did. Did you?

If rebuilding the turbo suddenly fixed your problem, you still can't say for certain that the bearings were the cause. It's actually very unlikely considering the wheels, housings and shaft would likely have been damaged in the process, and would therefore still give you trouble after bearing replacement. In order to rebuild a turbo, you have you remove it along with the intake and exhaust parts. If a leak due to loose nuts, couplers or something similar was the source of the problem, it would likely be taken care of by taking everything apart and reassembling it.