Solve this. Weird load/voltage problem.
06-14-08, 05:30 PM
#1
Ban Peak
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Solve this. Weird load/voltage problem.
Alright, the car is an 89' GTUs. I have about 2000 miles on a reman I put in myself. It is installed correctly and all electrical connections are tight and proper.
I've only recently been having this weird problem- It is intermittent as well.
I don't know any history about the car, the guy I bought it from had it sitting in his driveway for a year and hadn't signed it over to himself.
The first time it happened, I drove the car over to my GF's house, it warmed up and all was well. turned it off, it sat for about a 1/2 hour. I started it back up and I drove it away. The radio was on the voltage read 14V, it was about 2000 RPM and I hit the brakes, the voltage dropped to about 8 for a second when the load for the brakes was applied the car shut off, then it recovered. Voltage read 14 I came to a stop, pressed the brakes at idle, everything was fine(I guess it was running off the battery). I started going again and whenever I'd press the brakes, it would drop- cut out for a sec and then recover. I hit the headlights, same symptom, hit the turn signals- same symptom.
Whenever an electrical load was applied it would cut out and I'd hear a relay click under the dash. whenever I was at idle and applied a load, it wouldn't cut out.
I got to my destination, shut the car off, and it sat for about an hour and a half. I came back out, started it up and there was no more problem.
I didnt have a problem with it again until abouit 3 weeks later which was yesterday. It started doing the same thing so I shut it off, popped the hood and checked the charge cable connection on the alternator. It was tight and there was no corrosion. I started it back up and it was still doing it.
I drove it to my destination, turned it off and there was no power at all in the car. I popped the hood and checked the battery connections- the were fine. I then opened the drivers door back up to find very low voltage- the dome light was dim and the seatbelt motor was trying to move. Then my friend open the passenger door and everything came back to life.
I started the car after that, and the problem was cleared.
Today it happened for about ten minutes. I drove it for about 30 minutes and everything was fine, all the sudden I pressed the brakes and the problem was back. I drove it for about ten more minutes and then it was back to normal.
Every time it cuts out I hear a relay click. This is so puzzling to me.
Help me out!
I've only recently been having this weird problem- It is intermittent as well.
I don't know any history about the car, the guy I bought it from had it sitting in his driveway for a year and hadn't signed it over to himself.
The first time it happened, I drove the car over to my GF's house, it warmed up and all was well. turned it off, it sat for about a 1/2 hour. I started it back up and I drove it away. The radio was on the voltage read 14V, it was about 2000 RPM and I hit the brakes, the voltage dropped to about 8 for a second when the load for the brakes was applied the car shut off, then it recovered. Voltage read 14 I came to a stop, pressed the brakes at idle, everything was fine(I guess it was running off the battery). I started going again and whenever I'd press the brakes, it would drop- cut out for a sec and then recover. I hit the headlights, same symptom, hit the turn signals- same symptom.
Whenever an electrical load was applied it would cut out and I'd hear a relay click under the dash. whenever I was at idle and applied a load, it wouldn't cut out.
I got to my destination, shut the car off, and it sat for about an hour and a half. I came back out, started it up and there was no more problem.
I didnt have a problem with it again until abouit 3 weeks later which was yesterday. It started doing the same thing so I shut it off, popped the hood and checked the charge cable connection on the alternator. It was tight and there was no corrosion. I started it back up and it was still doing it.
I drove it to my destination, turned it off and there was no power at all in the car. I popped the hood and checked the battery connections- the were fine. I then opened the drivers door back up to find very low voltage- the dome light was dim and the seatbelt motor was trying to move. Then my friend open the passenger door and everything came back to life.
I started the car after that, and the problem was cleared.
Today it happened for about ten minutes. I drove it for about 30 minutes and everything was fine, all the sudden I pressed the brakes and the problem was back. I drove it for about ten more minutes and then it was back to normal.
Every time it cuts out I hear a relay click. This is so puzzling to me.
Help me out!
06-14-08, 06:37 PM
#3
Ban Peak
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iTrader: (49)
Thanks for the tip, But it's too late to edit now
. If a mod reads this could you please change it to say"Please help with odd electrical issue"
Hailers is the man when it comes to electrical problems though.
. If a mod reads this could you please change it to say"Please help with odd electrical issue"Hailers is the man when it comes to electrical problems though.
06-14-08, 07:55 PM
#4
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sounds like a bad battery cable, they can fail under the insulation... tip off is the dead car, until you open the door.
06-15-08, 02:04 AM
#6
HAILERS
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The *no power at all* does make it seem to be a batt cable problem. Make sure the cables are good and that the negative cable is attached real good to the starters long attach bolt (factory install) or on one of the transmission/engine bolts. It also has a splice off that neg cable to a place below the left front strut tower. Look for that.
Could be the positive cable also.
The relay clicking must be the Circuit Opening Relay. Lose power to it and it'll drop out. Or on a series five, the ground to that relay comes from the ECU to pull it in when driving. So if you lost power to the ECU that would cause that relay to drop out. That relay powers the fuel pump.
But it does sound more like a batt cable/terminal more than anything.
My way of saying "got me!".
Could be the positive cable also.
The relay clicking must be the Circuit Opening Relay. Lose power to it and it'll drop out. Or on a series five, the ground to that relay comes from the ECU to pull it in when driving. So if you lost power to the ECU that would cause that relay to drop out. That relay powers the fuel pump.
But it does sound more like a batt cable/terminal more than anything.
My way of saying "got me!".
06-15-08, 07:19 PM
#7
Ban Peak
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iTrader: (49)
The *no power at all* does make it seem to be a batt cable problem. Make sure the cables are good and that the negative cable is attached real good to the starters long attach bolt (factory install) or on one of the transmission/engine bolts. It also has a splice off that neg cable to a place below the left front strut tower. Look for that.
Could be the positive cable also.
The relay clicking must be the Circuit Opening Relay. Lose power to it and it'll drop out. Or on a series five, the ground to that relay comes from the ECU to pull it in when driving. So if you lost power to the ECU that would cause that relay to drop out. That relay powers the fuel pump.
But it does sound more like a batt cable/terminal more than anything.
My way of saying "got me!".
Could be the positive cable also.
The relay clicking must be the Circuit Opening Relay. Lose power to it and it'll drop out. Or on a series five, the ground to that relay comes from the ECU to pull it in when driving. So if you lost power to the ECU that would cause that relay to drop out. That relay powers the fuel pump.
But it does sound more like a batt cable/terminal more than anything.
My way of saying "got me!".
I appreciate everyone's input.
My one other question though is, if it is a battery connection problem, why is the car fine at idle? It only happens when the car is running off the alternator power. When the car switches back over to battery power at idle it's fine. Thats why I wasn't thinking the battery cables.
I'll just put a draw on the electrical system while I'm driving and it drops out for a second then recovers. It doesnt matter what the load is etc. It's just when the load is initially applied.
For example, I'll press and hold the brake pedal while moving. It will cut out for a second when I initially press it and come back while I'm still pressing the pedal and be fine.
If I push the pedal and let it out and push it again it will happen twice. It cuts out each time at initial load draw.
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06-15-08, 07:34 PM
#8
HAILERS
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There's no switching over to batt pwr when you go to idle. The alt should be putting out 13-14 vdc at idle. Like at seven fifty rpms give or take.
It's a strange problem. When the car cuts out, what does the volt meter in the dash read? Should be at least 13vdc or so.
If someone has put a aftermarket whatever in the car, I'd suspect that first for being wired wrong.
Or pick up a meter and pull the ECU plugs off and see if you have a good gnd on all the gnd wires in the ECU plug. Key out of the ignition.
Some of this almost sounded like a ignition switch problem. Got me.
Fuel cut off switch in the car? Not connected good? Wouldn't explain some of the things you listed though.
I'd do a visual on the batt neg cable. Make sure it's on the starters long bolt good and connected below the left strut tower good also.
Alt belt on good? Not loosy goosy.
It's a strange problem. When the car cuts out, what does the volt meter in the dash read? Should be at least 13vdc or so.
If someone has put a aftermarket whatever in the car, I'd suspect that first for being wired wrong.
Or pick up a meter and pull the ECU plugs off and see if you have a good gnd on all the gnd wires in the ECU plug. Key out of the ignition.
Some of this almost sounded like a ignition switch problem. Got me.
Fuel cut off switch in the car? Not connected good? Wouldn't explain some of the things you listed though.
I'd do a visual on the batt neg cable. Make sure it's on the starters long bolt good and connected below the left strut tower good also.
Alt belt on good? Not loosy goosy.
06-15-08, 07:57 PM
#9
Ban Peak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (49)
There's no switching over to batt pwr when you go to idle. The alt should be putting out 13-14 vdc at idle. Like at seven fifty rpms give or take.
It's a strange problem. When the car cuts out, what does the volt meter in the dash read? Should be at least 13vdc or so.
If someone has put a aftermarket whatever in the car, I'd suspect that first for being wired wrong.
Or pick up a meter and pull the ECU plugs off and see if you have a good gnd on all the gnd wires in the ECU plug. Key out of the ignition.
Some of this almost sounded like a ignition switch problem. Got me.
Fuel cut off switch in the car? Not connected good? Wouldn't explain some of the things you listed though.
I'd do a visual on the batt neg cable. Make sure it's on the starters long bolt good and connected below the left strut tower good also.
Alt belt on good? Not loosy goosy.
It's a strange problem. When the car cuts out, what does the volt meter in the dash read? Should be at least 13vdc or so.
If someone has put a aftermarket whatever in the car, I'd suspect that first for being wired wrong.
Or pick up a meter and pull the ECU plugs off and see if you have a good gnd on all the gnd wires in the ECU plug. Key out of the ignition.
Some of this almost sounded like a ignition switch problem. Got me.
Fuel cut off switch in the car? Not connected good? Wouldn't explain some of the things you listed though.
I'd do a visual on the batt neg cable. Make sure it's on the starters long bolt good and connected below the left strut tower good also.
Alt belt on good? Not loosy goosy.
The car is completely stock, not aftermarket things wired in.
When the car cuts out, the voltmeter immediately drops down to about 8, then goes back to 14.
No fuel cut switch.
I'll check the negative batt cable connections and add a new body ground tomorrow.
Alternator belt is new and on tight.
Could the alternator possibly be eating it? It has almost 140K on it. I first suspected the alternator but then I thought the voltage regulator inside first goes bad and causes voltage to spike.
I'll look into getting a new alternator.
Thanks again!
06-21-08, 06:34 PM
#10
Ban Peak
Thread Starter
iTrader: (49)
Just in case anyones interested I think I figured it out.
I think the connection to the positive terminal inside the battery was bad. It happened this morning at AutoX, and it wouldnt start at all. I got very little voltageinto the car, barely enough for the dome light to come on. I got out and check the battery terminals and the Positive termal was VERY hot. Negative terminal was cold.
I got a ride out to walmart and got a new battery.
I didn't have any symptoms or problems for the rest of the day.
Hopefully that was it.
I think the connection to the positive terminal inside the battery was bad. It happened this morning at AutoX, and it wouldnt start at all. I got very little voltageinto the car, barely enough for the dome light to come on. I got out and check the battery terminals and the Positive termal was VERY hot. Negative terminal was cold.
I got a ride out to walmart and got a new battery.
I didn't have any symptoms or problems for the rest of the day.
Hopefully that was it.
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