All these threads about the tps had me wondering if i could help my idle. I recently got the rb true dual setup and also got a bit of a rough idle from it. Since then I got up the courage to try n fix it by adjusting the idle. Presently the car is running fairly good, although I think I may have what I think is called a deadspot. It cut out when I got on the throttle pretty good but it did it only once since I readjusted the tps again. So what was that and also my connectors on the tps are pretty corroded looking can I buy new ones and splice them in? And where can I get them if so? I have other info but this is getting long, any help is always appreciated.

 

If you really think the corrosion is that bad, look for the same type of connector on the interior of a car at a junkyard and cut it off, then splice that into your harness. You can probably clean the existing contacts up with some sort of electrical cleaning solution and a small brush, though.

The cut-out is probably the result of your mis-adjusted TPS, adjust it per the link below and see if the problem is still there.

TPS adjustment info here: http://www.johnr.com/tps.html

 

The pins in the plug will release and come out of the plug and you would have an easier shot at cleaning them up. You remove the pin/Wire by placing a small item into the front of the plug to release the wire. In the plug there are two aspects of the pin. One is the larger flat part while the other piece slides into the larger part to secure it in its place so just pry away the smaller piece in the opposite direction of the larger part and the wire/clip will release and slide out the back of the plug for cleaning. If you do this you won't need a new plug etc.......

 

so I set the tps using the volt method. Now Im getting this weird bogging, I could barley get over 10 mph. How would the car run with the tps disconnected would it still idle? I'm bout to go see if I can pull this plug apart and clean the pins up a lil.

 

took about 2 hours to do the tps side of the connector. And is was that bad, the whole piece of the clips were green from corrosion. Now for the other side of the connector...

 

Do you still have your cats?

 

Nah I got the rb dual outlet headers so I got the presilencer or w/e in that spot. And I gave up on the other plug and hooked it back up, reset the tps and all seems well for now. The car was screaming when I got on the throttle and has never pulled so hard. Just hope it stays this way. Thanks for the help so far.

 

So I drove the car again this morning, started up well and drove great. Last night I was reading on here and saw someone had a problem with the clutch switch. Got me thinking cause I noticed I could start the car without it in, so I jumpered the connection and I think this has helped. Now the idle does not jump when I engage the clutch. I also noticed my dashpot was covered in dirt, so I will be cleaning it as well as the bac to see if I can get this 7 running even better. And my idle is just around 950, I know its a lil high but I dont want to touch the screw again since it seems like its fine now. I hope it doesn't advance the timing, I know nothing about setting that.

 

Timing should advance north of 1100 rpm or so.

The Interlock Switch is the name of switch that prevents the car from being started in gear and is not to be confused w/the Clutch Switch.

The TPS screw smooths out fluctuations to the idle but does not lower or increase the idle in a steady state manner.

 

can I jumper the interlock switch too, I jumpered the one by the clutch thats why I thought is was a clutch switch. Which ever one it was the car was dropping below 500 rpm when coming to a stop and now its not doing it. I thought it was a alternator problem at first, strange **** has happened since I let the car sit for 5 years. Ill never do that again.

 

Use this to decide which one you jumpered.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...switch+picture

 

I was having the same problem as you and did the same thing... I gave up on cleaning the other connector. Big mistake. I eventually ended up back on square one.

I decided to cut the whole connection off and splice in a waterproof 3 pin connector from a later model Chevy Lumina. Now TPS plug corrosion is a thing of the past. After getting rid of the old outdated and corroded plug, it really helps get rid of any guesswork.

 

Looks like I am going to have to make a trip to the junkyard soon. My list is getting longer. Thanks for the advice. Anyone had trouble with the HID headlights? Is my only option for more power a higher amped alternator?